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Our [new] 1978 Bus!
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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wildthings - the reason I considered it was that the engine does run, but only off starting fluid. I'm not worried about it seizing so much as just knocking or otherwise being in poor shape.

Ronin and Rich, thanks for your thoughts on injectors and otherwise. I learned something new today! I'll give you a shout when I'd like to send my injectors in, Rich - it's obvious you know your stuff and care about your business and making your customers happy.

I'll definitely be doing the fuel lines too. I've ordered new pump, filter x2, regulator, and soon will have the injectors redone. I'm planning to remove the metal lines and muriatic acid them clean. I'll also replace all the FI vacuum hoses and whatnot.

I'll take your advice on running the engine then adjusting the lifters afterward. No need to hook it all up to the dolly - more just a curiosity there. When I had it running on starting fluid there was an exhaust leak and I heard a tick in there, but so hard to tell while spraying fluid, butterflying the throttle, and listening for things! If you bus sat for a month and had bled-down lifters, mine certainly does after ~5 years! We'll see how it works once the fuel stuff is sorted.

And Mitch, hey! Yeah, it's a good solid bus and we cut a deal for it, and the lack of major body work made us decide to pull the trigger. By the way, it was you I sold the '72 interior to, right? How'd that work out?
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1974 Westy CampMobile - the OG!
1979 Transporter
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 11:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi
I do not see where you have changed the oil. Oil sludges up after sitting for long periods of time and the sludge sits at the bottom of the pan. Where the oil pickup is. The oil on the oil stick may look fine, but the oil at the bottom of the pan could be sludge.
I would suggest refresh the oil and run a remote gas can with fresh fuel.
Good Luck
Tcash
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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 12:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash, definitely changing the oil and once the fuel pump comes in the mail we'll see if she won't run off aux tank with the current injectors and whatnot. Fingers crossed!
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As usual the folks here are giving solid advice.

Just a one off about the injectors. I had mine serviced at Cruzin and had them stored fora bit before the engine was running and had zero problem.

Also, don't be afraid to pull the entire engine. It's not very hard and I'm sure you have seen Ratwell's step by step instructions. I used them all the time.

I didn't see much about tires. You probably want a new set. I just had an old tire's belt separate driving on the highway. Not very fun.

Don't forget to address the brakes. I only had one caliper working up front and one working in the rear and I wouldn't have known it unless I tested everything out.
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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Right on and thanks for the help - I'll be doing new brakes all the way around, pulling all the fuel lines and injectors, soaking the fuel lines in muriatic acid as per Ratwell. Ordered new regulator and new fuel pump, and I just finished re-installing the tank with all new hoses, etc.

ON that note, I hope I never again have to roll around in my grubby driveway and do another tank R&R. It probably didn't help that I was using the Gates Barricade fuel hose for all the vapor hosing connections, and then that NAPA gave me 2" hose instead of the correct 2 1/4 " that I asked for (for the filler neck). The Gates hose was so frustrating because it is 6.4mm instead of the 7mm that vapor hosery should be, and what a pain, even using silicone lube, to get those suckers on there. Hardest part about the whole job was all those little connections. Really though, between lowering the engine, getting to those bolts and to the tank strap nuts underneath, I'd be happy not to do this job again for 40 years.

FWIW, if you're doing this job, have all the CORRECT hosery ready to go before you're knees deep.

I've pulled these engines before, but before I do that I'd like to see it's running condish. It fires off starting fluid and I was told it was driven to where it sat without major problem, but I just don't know the history other than that. With the new fuel system in place soon, I'll do a full assessment, adjust lifters and do a compression test once I've run it around a bit, and go from there. I'm almost certain I'll be putting a new engine in over the winter anyhow, but this will get me by for a few months and allow me to assess everything - clutch, tranny, etc.

Thanks again for all your help guys!
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 5:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

guanella74 wrote:
ON that note, I hope I never again have to roll around in my grubby driveway and do another tank R&R. It probably didn't help that I was using the Gates Barricade fuel hose for all the vapor hosing connections, and then that NAPA gave me 2" hose instead of the correct 2 1/4 " that I asked for (for the filler neck). The Gates hose was so frustrating because it is 6.4mm instead of the 7mm that vapor hosery should be, and what a pain, even using silicone lube, to get those suckers on there.


The 5/16 Gates hose would have worked for the vent lines. For the fill there is a hose used on the Dodge Sprinter that will work, but is still tight to get on.
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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Next time I'll opt for the 5/16 fuel hose for those for sure - thanks Wildthings.

I'm still waiting for some parts in the mail, but did manage to get the holes drilled in the middle windows so I can install the Jalousies to replace the sliders. I debated on doing a full rebuild of the set of jalousies I have, but after researching more into how in-depth that job is, I'm just going to tape off the windows and use some 000 steel wool to bring back the aluminum and mount them. And when winter comes or the day I have more time, I can do the full rebuild with all the seals.

I wasn't a fan of the green tinted glass all the way around either, and I like the jalousies, so replaced all the glass all the way around with clear that I had from a different bus, and will be installing the louvered windows in the middles of this bus. Going for the tin top camper look, and will likely put the full width camper bed in back to actually make it sleepable!

More updates to come soon, and for now, here is the M-plate decoded. Nothing too special going on here:
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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2014 9:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey again! I've been making lots of progress on the bus, but have a quick question. A friend and I just put the windshield in, and thankfully it went in the first try. This is my first merry go round with installing a windshield, however, and I'm second guessing whether it's in there correctly.

We started it by actually seating the top first instead of the bottom, then pulled the cord to get the seal lipped all the way around. I'm suspicious that the bottom isn't 100% seated correctly but have no way to tell. Here's my thoughts/questions:

Should I be able to push upward on the rubber seal at the top, center of the windshield (where the blue tape is in the picture below) and see it move up ~1/4 of an inch, or should it be wicked tight all the way around the windshield? Also, at the bottom corners it's just a tad 'lifted' (see pics). Could anyone with experience here let me know if it's possible to have the windshield fully in, but just a bit 'off'? How would I tell looking inside/outside the seal? Any way to fix it if so, or is it a total redo?

Thanks in advance,

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guanella74 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is anyone with experience able to give insight into the windshield issue above? Is the only way to correctly install it staring at the bottom, and how do I tell if it's not fully seated correctly?

Thank you,
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RONIN10
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe not 1st hand experience, but when recently watching the Wolfsburg West video on Bug windshield seal installations, they addressed the seal not being fully seated in the corners by by rounding a 2x4 to approximately match the curvature of the seal and then hitting it with a mallet to drive the seal fully into the corner.

In this case, it seems like just the opposite has happened...your seal seems to be extra seated in the corner. Having just done my son's Bug, I can attest that there is indeed some wiggle room. Maybe you can borrow or find the suction cup handles that glass handlers use to pull the windshield upward. Or possibly drive it upward with the mallet and 2x4 combo above.
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 12:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In my experience working with a "glass guy" we put the corner moulded windshield rubber on the glass first, then the rope/wire in the groove, followed by fitting the bottom onto the metal lip. Gravity is supposed to help you out here and as one person pushes from outside the other pulls the rope/wire. The headliner if not glued well can be a real problem plus the warmth of all pieces can make the job easier(warmer) or harder(colder).

One thing I was told was NEVER to use silicone anywhere in the process. According to the glass guy it attacks the paint. I myself have not seen evidence of this, but he is the one that does this for a living, not me. I am going to continue to heed his advice.

I am not so sure trying to move the glass up is anything but a waste of time. Seems to me it will fall down to where it wants in the rubber the first drive you make. Just my opinion of course. The most important interface I would think is the metal and rubber, not the glass and rubber. When the weather got warm, I was able to pull down my rubber(whoa that sounds kinda dirty! Laughing ) with my fingertips so its bottom inner ridges made good contact with the metal. Plus that helped seal onto the glass too.

With that soft deluxe aluminum trim in there, I wouldn't be pounding anything for fear of damaging the aluminum. Warmth and steady pressure with something might be the first step to see if you can stretch it into the corner. Again, just my opinion. Pounding anything like this without steady pressure often just results in springback and no forward gains, especially with nothing on the underside to grip to and the slippery silicone in the glass/rubber interface.

Bus looks very nice BTW!! I really like the colour combo you chose. I hope you are a proud Bus driver, you deserve it!

Cheers,
Don
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 05, 2014 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VW Dog And Ronin, thanks for the insight. I'm going to pull the windshield and try again to see if I can get it to seal properly, starting from the bottom and going up. Bummer!

Below are photos of recent progress. Highlights:

*I wanted chrome buttons to replace the stock plastic ones on the rear hatch and engine lid, so pulled them off an early parts bus. Like the chrome so much better than the faded plastic!

*I'm replacing the front beam with a full Wagenswest setup - so excited! Yesterday morning before work a friend and I pulled the old beam. Hoping to get the new beam in this weekend.

*Sent off the injectors to Rich at Cruzin, and he's now got them on the way back. They were pretty bad, as was expected. 67% variance between the highest and lowest flow! They're now looking pretty good:
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*Installed the vent delete plates from an earlier bus since I'm not using the door panels from the '78 with the ducting going through them.

*Pulled all the fuel-related components, ordered parts and will be replacing everything and cleaning the metal lines before I put it all back together, including new vacuum hosery.

*used lacquer thinner, carb cleaner, and

*Replaced spark plugs with the Bosch W8CC plugs gapped at .0275". The 1/2 plugs looked a little rich, and the 3/4 plugs looked mostly fine - tan/brown, perhaps on the rich side. Hopefully the new injectors will help keep everything happier in the combustion chamber.

Here are the pics!

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Sliding the C-shaped deluxe trim into its channel in the windshield seal:
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Injectors to the post office!
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The 3/4 tins were clear, but this is what I found in the 1/2 side. It seemed to never end! It seems the mice liked to pull this from underneath the rear seat, tote it back to their little cozy palace in the cylinder 1/2 tin, and pack it in. I picked this all out with needle nose pliers, and then vacuumed like crazy in there with a little hose attachment, then pulled the plugs, vacuumed some more in there, and replaced the plugs. Hoping it's all clear or that whatever's left won't cause any problems.

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Front Beam pull: From memory, I needed to remove the clutch cable, master cylinder, brake booster, e-brake lines at the front, cut/remove the brake lines, remove the air duct, the arm connecting the steering box to the beam, the speedo cable, the beam's 4 bolts on each side (which I had to disconnect the shock at the bottom on both sides to get to), and i think that's it. This beam didn't take too much persuading once it was all disconnected - dropped right down surprisingly easy. Two notes - the upper shock bolts were a bit long and initially kept the beam from further dropping. Once we removed those we were fine. And if you don't want to pull the clutch cable all the way out of its tube from the back, you can just disconnect it at the front and route it back a bit through the frame to the other side of the beam so you're clear of it.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good work brother, it looks great I love the color!
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2014 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ENVY!
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Update time!

ENGINE: It RUNS!
The fuel system is 100% back together with new...everything. You heard that right, folks!

The pristine tank from a '79 with new vapor hosery, new Bosch fuel pump, new filter, new-ified injectors by Cruzin performance, new 7mm pieces of hose connecting everything, new regulatorrrr (Mount up!), and while I don't have a new CSV (they're $150!), I cleaned mine so it looks like new.

Also changed the oil/filter, installed new spark plugs & air filter, and changed most of the vacuum lines.

QUESTION:
My fuel pump runs 100% of the time the battery is hooked up, regardless of key position or if the key is even in the ignition. Anyone have a wager as to why? I popped the top off the AFM and it's not like it's actuated there all the time.

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FRONT BEAM:
I've got it almost 100% together - just need to install the calipers on the rotors and brake lines.

I installed all new bearings (along with their races, of course). I used the good ones, too - worth it in the long run. New rotors, calipers, new everything is going on this beam!

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I can't install it until I POR and Waxoyl under the beam and in the front wheel wells while I've got the copious space and access under there to do it right. Getting close though!

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The Wagenswest 2" drop spindles require you to cut the dust plates for the brakes, so got that done, cleaned them up and painted them:

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EXTERIOR:
I now have all the windows installed - HUZZAH! I have the Wolfsburg West full Jalousie rebuild kits, but will save the full rebuild of the windows for a later date (ie winter). For now, I cleaned the windows well and used the black seals from Busdepot to match the rest of the seals around the bus.

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Question - The inside of the jalousie windows - is there no trim or anything that makes this look more 'finished'? See pics:
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your engine seal is in upside down...Wink

Bus looks great!

Next time a flat Palm to the glass a few times will seat the window. It's fairly hard to break, but firm smacks can work just fine.

There is no other finish. It was a rare early part that covers those on the inside if I remember right. Ask cdenissg.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuart - thanks - didn't notice the engine seal that the PO had in there was upside down. Good lookin' out!

Thanks for the tip on the inside of the jalousies; I think I'll try to fashion something to go there as I'm just not digging the look as-is, especially with the headliner folds on the driver's side showing.
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 9:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on getting the bus to run (on gasoline, that is Wink ). Sure is some impressive progress you've made, and a great looking bus!
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Made a bit more progress this weekend!

These are 'before' pictures of the underside (below). After pics to come!

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As you can see, the reason we bought this bus was the lack of significant rust. The floors and under the bus are almost perfect; the only caveat to 'rust-free' is the back side of the dogleg on the front driver's side and a very small section behind the driver's wheel, which I plan on taking care of.

I got under the bus and scraped the old, peeling undercoat (the original Waxoyl, I believe it is) until I could hardly lift my arms. There are a lot of nooks and crannies under a bus, and it seemed like the old Waxoyl was peeling here and there and everywhere so I wanted to make sure I got all the old flaky stuff off.

I started with a plastic scraper, but that didn't really have the edge or the tooth I needed so I just used a metal one. All the areas that have any rust showing at all will get POR15 then the whole underside will get Waxoyl'd again for that factory look (and protection!). I've now got everything scraped, degreased, and I applied POR15 to everything that needed it forward of the front jack points. Once that dries, I'll Waxoyl that front section underneath then POR and Waxoyl the entire rear section underneath.

As a side note, POR15 is supposed to be the best stuff for this, but MAN - I hate applying it. Even with mask, goggles, hat, long-sleeved shirt taped at the wrists, rubber gloves, and jeans I still managed to get it on my skin. By the way, WEAR A QUALITY MASK if you use this stuff. It is very, very hazardous to your health if you don't

Anyway, rant over. I had a bit left in the bottom of my cup, I had already degreased/cleaned the cargo floor, so went ahead and used the rest on any spots that had any flecks of rust starting there. Really, this was overkill as the floor is beautiful in regard to rust, but there were a few tiny spots so I just covered my bases:

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QUESTION:
Any tips on getting the insides of the 'keyholes' in the cargo area for the seat mounts rust-proofed? I certainly don't want to squeege a bunch of POR in there as it would render the mounts useless.
[/b]
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1974 Westy CampMobile - the OG!
1979 Transporter
1979 Transporter
1977 Transporter
1974 Transporter
1973 Transporter
1971 Westy
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great progress Travis, can't wait to see that beauty on the road!
Tom
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