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Charging problem..
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 18, 2014 7:45 pm    Post subject: Charging problem.. Reply with quote

Ok,so. Last night we cleaned my engine in prep for a vw show/swap meet. Got some water in the distributer and after cleaning it out ang getting her fired up again, I thought Rolling Eyes I turned my ignition all the way off.. But apparently I didn't and the ignition stayed on all the way from around 12 hours. Started it up to leave for the meet and noticed my generator light was on,and stayed on all the way there and all the way back. Came home and tried to trouble shoot it,replaced the volt regulator,polorized it and it's still on. Tested to see if the gen was charging and the meter said it was, and the top brush looked alright (need to check the bottom) but for some reason it's not charging.. I started the car and pulled the positive off and it died immediately. I'm assuming this is the generator ? But if anyone has an idea about what it could be or a way to test something I would love to hear,gotta head out tomorrow.
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1973 karmann ghia - current, not the last VW.
1947 Chevy stylemaster - gone, but not forgotten.
1995 Ford F-150 - gone, hatred for it lives.


Last edited by -Zodiac- on Sun Oct 26, 2014 8:27 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Greezy Joe
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check wire from Gen to reg with an Ohm meter for continuity. A connector could have heated up and is not making the circuit.
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 8:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just tested the gen and it needs replacing, guess when I was cleaning the engine something got in it .
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Now is the time to go ahead and install an alternator!
12 volt batteries will read about 13.25 to 14 volts when your generator is charging. Now if you measured the D+ post and got say 12.6 volts or so (Battery not charging voltage) it means the contact in the voltage regulator between In-Out (D+ to B+) was stuck closed and likely was all night before and that burned out the generator windings or a brush or commutator solder melted out. But I would have thought this to have left your battery quite dead! I don't know just doesn't add up does it? Perhaps it burned out fairly quick then went open circuit!
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah doesn't add up,maybe I didn't leave the ignition on? Because if I did than my oil and gen light would have just stayed on ,and the battery should have been quite dead. I'm thinking that when we hosed the engin off that some chemical got in the generator and shorted it. We tested the gen by jumping the d and b and giving it 12v to turn it into an electric motor essentialy, but it didn't turn at all, as it should have. Then it was reading 0.01 at an idle.. So I should definitely invest in an alternator. Anyone know how easy/ hard it is to put one in?
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cool karmann collected
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 1:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you've got a generator-only pedastal (the cast bracket thing it sits on) then you've need to remove the intake manifold to replace it with an alt specific one - not a 5 minute job with the engine in the car. That's only half the problem, the cheap alt kits aren't great, it is possible to get a genuine bosch one from some suppliers but be aware it's at least twice the price of the more readily available chinese ones that last about a year. Having gone the cheap route myself, I'd either go for a re-manufactured bosch generator or buy the new bosch alt kit.

Good luck

ANt
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 3:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Crying or Very sad think I'll just buy the 90 dollar generator, when I take the engine out and get everything cleaned up I might get an alternator. Sucks because we went to the vw meet and they had nice Altenators and brackets, probably everything I need on the cheap. Didn't think my gen was bad though!
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't you also have to jumper F to ground then put 12 volts on D+ to make it run like a motor?
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 19, 2014 9:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Think hmmmm I did not think so, should be all grounded . Just jumped the two together and gave a side 12v,the generator tried to move but didn't really move at all. I'll look it up and see if that's right. But even the other test showed it not charging. Hate to have learned the wrong way to test it and have others doing it wrong.
Edit: I meant I jumped d to f and gave it 12v, don't know why I said b above
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay so Im going to replace the generator tomorrow, is there anything I should look out for or an easy method of replacement ? I'm going to do more researching on the topic but since this is a ghia forum and I already have a topic on the subject I figured I would just ask here because I don't know if the process different than a beetle. So, what all do I need to remove,does the fan shroud have to come off?
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cool karmann collected
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 11:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stretching the memory banks a bit here, but i'm sure that you will need to loosen the screws on the side of the fan housing and reach around and disconnect the crossbar linking the two sets of flaps and remove it. Then un-screw the thermostat from the rod and maybe remove the throttle cable guide tube also, and the oil cooler ducting and the screw that attaches the FH to the 'hoover-bit' under the oil cooler also - plenty of opportunities for swearing with this job. It's easier with the carb out of the way too.

That should allow you to raise the fan-housing enough to get the dynamo and fan assembly out in one piece.

There is another way to short-cut the process, but it requires a fair amount of luck. In the past, I installed an unknown dynamo onto an engine and fitted the engine into my ghia. when it started, the dynamo bearings rumbled like crazy. Realising it had to come out again, I managed to get a 36mm socket & ratchet round the back into the fan opening, took the front half off the dynamo pulley and used an open-ended spanner on the half that remained on the dynamo. Luckily the big nut on the fan came loose and I was able to remove the fan and 'feel' for the two 10mm nuts that held the dynamo to the backing plate. With these out, undid the strap and removed the dynamo. I only managed this because I'd recently fitted the fan hub-nut so it wasn't seized like most are, I tried the same trick with another engine that came my way and bust the inner half of the pulley and chewed the woodruff keyway, I ended up having to cut the fan hub nut off with a discer as it was so tight on there. If your fan has been on there a long time then this is unlikely to work as a method.

Good luck

A.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure how it is on a Ghia but the trick is to get that 36mm socket on the big nut inside the fan in the engine cooling fan air intake. Then the next trick is to hope it's not too tight.
If you have dual carbs and you use bolts instead of studs and nuts on the generator stand to the case then it's possible to change a generator or alternator without taking the stock intake manifold carb etc.. off it. The whole thing will just slide back and out gen stand fan and fan backing plates.
If it has a thermostat connected to the cooling flaps and you try to lift the fan shroud up be sure to disconnect the thermostat at the thermostat first.

I usually pull the engine and use an air impact wrench on the 36mm nut on the fan to loosen it.
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here she is in all of her glory. I've seen people say you have to take the carb and intake off, also heard that you have to take the fan shroud out. Someone said to take the deck lid off and pull the shroud. I'm going to look and see if I have a 36mm socket in the garage.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 1:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, The carb, the center intake manifold and likely one of the end castings, perhaps the fuel pump will all need to come off on this one. But if you can get the 36mm nut loose you won't need to lift the fan shroud or remove the generator stand. On the other hand if you lift the fan shroud enough you won't have to remove the intake manifold or worry about the 36mm nut until it's out. The Oil cooler is up inside the fan shroud and you don't want to damage it or start a oil leak there because you put a lot of force on the fan shroud to lift it or something. I don't know is it a dog house?
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think it's just a regular shroud,what's the diffrence? My dad said that I just pull the shroud out and whalla. I'm going to just try it how he says it, it looks like there might be ample room,but I really don't want to mess that oil cooler up. He also says the car doesn't have to come off Shocked and just like that. Confusion. I know I gotta pull take take the throttle cable out though
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-Zodiac-
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So far, proving to be quite the pain in the arse.. On another note, anybody else's work bench look as good as mine Very Happy . The fan shroud won't come up enough for some reason, any ideas? If not I'm just going to take the intake off and was my hands off it. Tried the 36mm, too tight and really awkward to try to torque on.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you need to remove engine tins, it may be easier to just drop the engine. So much easier to work on.
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CiderGuy wrote:
If you need to remove engine tins, it may be easier to just drop the engine. So much easier to work on.


^^^
this
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A dog house fan shroud will have the oil cooler on the back of the fan shroud in a little tin box commonly refereed to as the dog house. They were stock on Dual Port engines starting in 1971. Also the dog house oil coolers are aluminum and a little more frail than the old steel ones that were inside the fan shroud.
Looks like you almost have it. Just pull the intake manifolds. Then after the generator is out it will still have the fan on it. Take it somewhere that has a impact wrench to get the nut loosened. Be sure to use a new intake manifold gasket on the end piece to the head when you put it back! I don't know perhaps you can get the center portion out without pulling one of the end pieces of the manifold but I doubt it.
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Last edited by Danwvw on Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:36 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 25, 2014 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently eh? And yeah I have a dog house, hopefully I didn't ding up my oil cooler wiggling the tin up and down. Yeah I don't think I can get the center portion off.I was thinking It would be more effective by leaving the engine in, stupid that was. I'm going to finish it all up tomorrow, if my genorator light turns on when I start the damned thing I'm going to go absolutely crazy.
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