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Charlie57 Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 140 Location: Lebanon, TN
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 8:05 pm Post subject: Working on the drive shafts |
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How do you know when it time to replace the joints/bearings? Here are some photos of the joints I am working on.
[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1272951.jpg
[img]http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1272949[/img][img][/img] |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:10 pm Post subject: |
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huw blued and pitted are the ball bearings inside? _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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old DKP driver Samba Member
Joined: March 30, 2005 Posts: 4145 Location: Los Gatos,Ca.
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Posted: Mon Oct 27, 2014 9:25 pm Post subject: when to replace cv joints |
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That race is pitted and that means that joint needs to be replaced as it
is only a matter of time before it fails.
The balls will also soon to be bad if not already. _________________ V.W.owner since 1967 |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:20 am Post subject: |
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You might be able to swap the axles side to side and get good life out of the joints still. Even just swapping them end for end on the same side may cause them to run in a new area of the races. All depends on your finances and vehicle needs. |
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crownline Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2010 Posts: 593 Location: Northwoods of WI
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:41 am Post subject: |
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Wow that's alot of dirt and grit you cleaned out of those bearings _________________ 1972 Bus 1700 cc Single Carb. But not a progressive.
Barelymuvin
Wish I still had the ones I got rid of.
"It"s got some dings and dents and neither of us is going to SEMA."(Update, I went to SEMA in 2019 but the Bus stayed home)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-8446.png]Click to view image[/URL] |
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madmike Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2005 Posts: 5292 Location: Atlanta,Michigan
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:26 am Post subject: |
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You can hear them knocking on hard/sharp turns,it's the un-weighted side that knocks My local parts store had one in stock(complete axle) for about $80 out the door and no core charge had to re-tighten the bolts once and I even used Loctite !!! _________________ 'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works" |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 9:36 am Post subject: Re: Working on the drive shafts |
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Fixed it
[quote="Charlie57"]How do you know when it time to replace the joints/bearings? Here are some photos of the joints I am working on.
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kreemoweet Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 3899 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:32 am Post subject: |
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If that's an original VW/Lobro joint, you are well advised to grease it up and run it until it actually starts making
obvious bad noises or otherwise making trouble. I ran a joint that looked far worse than that for over 15 years
without the slightest problem. Sometimes pitting like that is just a result of neglect/abuse by PO's and does not affect
the joint operation. _________________ '67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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aopisa Samba Member
Joined: August 14, 2009 Posts: 605 Location: Vermont
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 10:49 am Post subject: |
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kreemoweet wrote: |
If that's an original VW/Lobro joint, you are well advised to grease it up and run it until it actually starts making
obvious bad noises or otherwise making trouble. I ran a joint that looked far worse than that for over 15 years
without the slightest problem. Sometimes pitting like that is just a result of neglect/abuse by PO's and does not affect
the joint operation. |
Yes, but I would do as Wildthings suggested and swap them left for right so you can introduce new wear surfaces for the bearings. How to the bearings look? _________________ 1977 Westy 2.0L FI
Leap into the boundless and make it your home! ---Chuang-Tzu
Please let me know if you do not receive this message... |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50353
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 12:01 pm Post subject: |
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A lot of the original joints got damaged in the few 5000-30,000 miles as the factory grease job was lacking. Once they started making noise they got dissembled and lube and then have run for years with very little additional wear. I wouldn't be surprised to find that that is not what happened with the joint(s) shown. |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 1:27 pm Post subject: |
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They look nice and clean. I'd put them back together, grease them good, and roll with it. They will still be better than any Chinese replacement shafts you get at the parts store. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Charlie57 Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012 Posts: 140 Location: Lebanon, TN
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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The ball bearing seem to look fine. I do not want to spend more money then I need on this build but I don't want to take these apart 5,000 miles from now either. There is definitely some wear on the other rings. I found the complete kit from Airheads for $60 each. Is there anything good or bad about them? |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Complete kit? Is that a complete drive axle or just one CV? _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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kreemoweet Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 3899 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Nothing wrong with having a spare axle (complete with joints) on hand, ready to pop in should the need arise. That way,
the downtime is minimal and you can rebuild the old axle at your leisure. Replacing an axle w/joints is not really a major job. _________________ '67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 5:27 pm Post subject: |
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Nothing wrong with having spares for each and every part on your bus. The thing is that any good drive axle/CV/boot assembly should last at least 60k miles. That's a long time in a bus. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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timvw7476 Samba Member
Joined: June 03, 2013 Posts: 2206 Location: seattle
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Posted: Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:24 pm Post subject: Working on the driveshafts |
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if you are worried, you can get decent joints out of used-up
vanagons, they're newer & usually don't have the crap
hammered out of them-pik-n-pull sold them kinda' cheap at
one time, & you get to inspect/disassemble them before you buy. |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:09 am Post subject: |
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I think this is the CV kit he's talking about
http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/vanag...-251598101
You'll need 4 _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3779 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:14 am Post subject: |
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http://www.airheadparts.com/vintage-vw-parts/vanag...-251598201
$8.XX _________________ 1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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aeromech Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 16971 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 10:18 am Post subject: |
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That's just a boot kit. He thinks he needs to replace the CV's themselves. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Wed Oct 29, 2014 11:24 am Post subject: |
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To me that is a classic example of a CV joint that was not properly re-packed likely after the boot had split. Dirt and water got in there and contaminated the lubricant. They should be repacked about every 30K miles and they will last for many thousands of miles.
That being said, I would still just repack all 4 of them, rotate the direction, and drive it. If it made some noise, I would replace that single joint and drive it some more. I would rather have a used German joint than anything to ever come out of a parts store.
The Germans always felt that if you keep the joint clean and well lubricated with nice fresh moly grease it should last forever. |
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