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MeeferMadness
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2004
Posts: 305
Location: Eugene Oregon
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 Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 2:50 pm Post subject: Rust in pan |
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I have just begun a restoration of a 1958 european sunroof car. The pan was sandblasted in the past which revealed some small rust holes around the battery area. My question is how to patch the holes. The entire rest of the pan is in great shape there is just the few smaller areas around the battery that are affected. I am reluctant to replace the entire pan half when the OG metal is mostly fine. Would just a battery pan section be best or is there a way to remedy just the areas around the rust holes?? I would like to retain as much original metal as I can. Need some advice so I can get this project rolling!
Thanks
Bruce
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AZ66Bug
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2014
Posts: 311
Location: Chandler, AZ
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 3:37 pm Post subject: |
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We filled in similar holes on the driver side with POR epoxy. Fills the holes well and can be sanded flush. Just happened to have some on hand from steering wheel repairs. I suppose one could weld the holes closed but I am not real confident in my welding skills and likely would have cause bigger holes since the sheet metal is so thin there.
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66 Beetle Sedan, restored 2014
66 Mustang: Original Owner, restored 2008
66 Ford F250: 4th Owner, restored 2013 |
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 6:04 pm Post subject: |
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Go old school and lead them up. if you do it correctly no one would be able to tell looking at from either side.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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OLDveedubs
Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2003
Posts: 602
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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Buy this and patch it!
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Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection." |
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sportin-wood
Samba Member
Joined: September 12, 2010
Posts: 2009
Location: Texas
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OLDveedubs
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Joined: February 10, 2003
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drscope
Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2014 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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Am I missing something here? I'm not seeing any big rot that would require putting in a battery tray or a pan half. All I see is some pitting that maybe has a few pin holes.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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allsidius
Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010
Posts: 1475
Location: Norway
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 2:48 am Post subject: |
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| AZ66Bug wrote: |
| We filled in similar holes on the driver side with POR epoxy. Fills the holes well and can be sanded flush. Just happened to have some on hand from steering wheel repairs. I suppose one could weld the holes closed but I am not real confident in my welding skills and likely would have cause bigger holes since the sheet metal is so thin there. |
Ouch, no epoxy here! With the flexing of the metal as you step on it, it will inevitably crack and water will seep in. Lead filler is the only non-surgical operation that has any kind of credibility. But basically, I feel that grafting in a quality battery tray is the only fix worth considering. If there are pin-holes, the metal is really thin around them, so filling the area with lead is not going to do much good unless it is a real local rust spot. So you loose a kilo of OG steel, partially oxidised to rust, but you gain a structurally sound base of your car. As long as you don't skimp on the pattern parts, and above all avoid using a piece of sheet steel with no reinforcement ridges, it's going to be a perfectly acceptable maintenance job to your car.
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1973 1303S w sunroof Click to view image
1978 1303 convertible (sold)Click to view image
1966 1300 RIPClick to view image
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allsidius
Samba Member
Joined: February 02, 2010
Posts: 1475
Location: Norway
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| Posted: Wed Nov 12, 2014 2:48 am Post subject: |
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| AZ66Bug wrote: |
| We filled in similar holes on the driver side with POR epoxy. Fills the holes well and can be sanded flush. Just happened to have some on hand from steering wheel repairs. I suppose one could weld the holes closed but I am not real confident in my welding skills and likely would have cause bigger holes since the sheet metal is so thin there. |
Ouch, no epoxy here! With the flexing of the metal as you step on it, it will inevitably crack and water will seep in. Lead filler is the only non-surgical operation that has any kind of credibility. But basically, I feel that grafting in a quality battery tray is the only fix worth considering. If there are pin-holes, the metal is really thin around them, so filling the area with lead is not going to do much good unless it is a real local rust spot. So you loose a kilo of OG steel, partially oxidised to rust, but you gain a structurally sound base of your car. As long as you don't skimp on the pattern parts, and above all avoid using a piece of sheet steel with no reinforcement ridges, it's going to be a perfectly acceptable maintenance job to your car.
_________________
1973 1303S w sunroof Click to view image
1978 1303 convertible (sold)Click to view image
1966 1300 RIPClick to view image
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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MeeferMadness
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2004
Posts: 305
Location: Eugene Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 10:43 am Post subject: Pan section |
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After reading the feedback on my pan I decided to replace the area with new metal. The problem I am running into is that all of the battery only replacement metal is too short to take care of the rust closer to the seat. Is there anyone who sells a "half pan" or something that covers a little more area? If I was to hunt for a OG pan section what years would be a exact match?
Thanks
Bruce |
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AZ66Bug
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2014
Posts: 311
Location: Chandler, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 2:20 pm Post subject: |
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quarter pans are available. We had a rusted out rear quarter on the passenger side and got a replacement from Mamotor. I think there are others that may carry it as well. Not too bad a job if you have a welder.
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66 Beetle Sedan, restored 2014
66 Mustang: Original Owner, restored 2008
66 Ford F250: 4th Owner, restored 2013 |
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MeeferMadness
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2004
Posts: 305
Location: Eugene Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 3:05 pm Post subject: Quarter Pans |
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OK, I found several sources for quarter pans. Is there any suppliers that make an 18ga section?
Thanks
Bruce |
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AZ66Bug
Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2014
Posts: 311
Location: Chandler, AZ
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 7:31 pm Post subject: |
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That is a good question. I know the stuff I got was thinner gauge - and that made welding it into the thicker gauge floor pans a bit of a challenge. I think the 20 gauge stuff is plenty strong for the need, but it did make welding for a complete novice more than a little challenging 
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66 Beetle Sedan, restored 2014
66 Mustang: Original Owner, restored 2008
66 Ford F250: 4th Owner, restored 2013 |
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Tim Donahoe
Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012
Posts: 11740
Location: Redding, CA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 8:15 pm Post subject: |
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If you want 18 gauge, you have to buy a half pan (not very cheap, by the way)--and, either cut the back off it and use the back half of the half, or go ahead and install the entire right side.
I've never seen quarters that are anything other than 20 gauge. But I have heard that these--if welded correctly--are quite adequate.
Tim |
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MeeferMadness
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2004
Posts: 305
Location: Eugene Oregon
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| Posted: Sat Nov 15, 2014 8:49 pm Post subject: Thanks |
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Thanks for all the advice everyone. I am ordering the 20ga quarter pans Monday. Once those are done then it is on to either por15 or Masterseries sealing. Next on the list is a 1958 front beam; mine came with a 1960 beam.
Bruce |
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