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Wasted youth
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Stuartzickefoose wrote:

Next time a flat Palm to the glass a few times will seat the window. It's fairly hard to break, but firm smacks can work just fine.


This ^

And, no, the windshield should have absolutely no movement when you're done.
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Traveling Writer
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A few years ago, I had an obstruction in the fuel tank of my 1976 FI bus... in an underground garage with a headlamp I got the tank out without dropping the engine in about an hour... Just FYI but it can be done. Nice bus in any case!
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1977 2.0 FI Westy
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm just going to have to remove and re-seat the windshield properly - need to get an extra set of hands to help get it in first. Thanks for the tips.

And Traveling Writer, I don't doubt you were able to - it seems others have also been able to, but on my setup (late '7Cool there was literally no way for that to happen without denting the tank and brute-force ripping it out. Was there some trick or specific direction you pulled it in to finagle it out? What did you remove from the top of the engine to get it out?
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 1:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here's a cut and paste of what I sent to a few folks back when I pulled the tank... if you check my photo gallery, there are a few labeled photos of the pull that seemed to be illustrative:

Search my gallery for the missing pics. they're labeled on the pic, so do check my gallery....

Drain the tank. Clamp line to fuel filter, remove filter, put gas can under line, let 'er rip. While draining:

1) Spray the tank strap nuts with penetrating oil NOW (not WD 40, something good). Nuts are located inside frame rails in a horrible spot (see photos). To get them out, I used a 2' T-handle flexible head socket with a 13mm Deep Socket. You may be able to get around with some extenders on your regular socket, but a flexible neck and a deep socket (plus a flexible wrist and arm!) is a requirement.

2) REMOVE these items: Hot Air Blower and hoses; Air Cleaner; S-boot; Distributor Cap; whatever vacuum lines are in the way. Label everything with masking tape labels and take some pics first!

3) Loosen or detach these items without needing to disconnect them: Coil (just let hang in pulley well, no need to disconnect); Voltage regulator and Double Relay on firewall; brake booster vac line. DISCONNECT BATTERY

Optional: Remove throttle body if you are comfortable doing so. I didn't, and no harm done. It does get a little pressure on it at certain times, so if you're nervous about that, pull it.

4) Undo firewall screws. Three or four per side (mine had some missing), two underneath (some people's are missing because of PO laziness, see photos for location). I used a super long 2 foot philips head screwdriver and got the bottom ones out easily.

5) Firewall pops out. The engine tin is slightly overhanging, but the firewall has plenty of flexibility to take it. If not, bend the tin down with pliers. It'll be easier to reinstall the tank and firewall that way anyway.

6) Undo two tank strap bolts. Tricky buggers located inside the frame rails. Use the fuel lines as reference, both are almost directly above the in and out gas lines, 2 inches toward the passenger side of each. VERY IMPORTANT: If bolts don't want to come EASILY, then get a helper to put some vice grips on the tank straps from above, so they don't twist while you wrench. Otherwise they WILL twist and snap and then you'll have another problem. Mine were lubed well enough that I didn't need a helper, so you might get lucky.

7) If you're removing your tank, drain now or earlier. Disconnect sender wire and ground, fuel filler neck hose, vent lines, lines from underneath bus inlet and outflow of tank.

To remove the tank itself, it can seem like it gets "stuck" on the way out. This is because of those two J-shaped in and outlet pipes on the bottom hanging up very easily. The correct move is to lift underneath both sides of the tank with your arms like a forklift, as high as it will go, then push it away from you toward the front of the bus with the passenger side, while at the same time sliding/pulling the left (driver's) side to the left and toward yourself. You want those in and outlet pipes on the bottom to clear the metal and then hook the tank 90 degrees, driver's side coming out first. It is easier if you pull the metal vapor lines instead of just tucking them out of the way. I'm assuming you're going to replace the rubber vapors anyway, so you may as well give yourself as much room as you can.

9) Once the tank is in that position, it's easy enough to slide it along the left side of the engine and out the engine bay door. There will be a lot of squealing, but really the only thing is the tin at the back; you'll see nothing else is really touching the tank. Watch the in and out pipes on the bottom so they don't rip out wires on the way out, go slow, check often.
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1977 2.0 FI Westy
2011 1200cc Yamaha Super Tenere
1976 Feet (they work surprisingly well)
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Manfreds78bay
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice progress. I just did my front beam myself and did the same under coating this summer.

One thing that was a pain was the bolt that holds the drag link to the link pin arm.

Even when I did compress the link pin washer, I stripped 3 bolts trying to get that sucker in there.

I found turning the bolt very slowly and pushing in finally did the trick. Just be aware that this may take you more than one try.
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eche_bus
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

guanella74 wrote:

QUESTION:
Any tips on getting the insides of the 'keyholes' in the cargo area for the seat mounts rust-proofed? I certainly don't want to squeege a bunch of POR in there as it would render the mounts useless.

I'd skip the POR in those spots and focus on just neutralizing the rust with one of those class of products. They're typically a form of phosphoric acid and won't add any thickness. Then brush whatever primer and/or paint you're planning to use on your floor into/under the inaccessable spots.

Neutralize/remove and seal. That's the objective.
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As usual, thanks for the beta - I'm making progress!

More photos and updates to come, however would anyone know where I can find the front caliper bolt that has the shoulder on it for a '71 caliper?

It is an M12 x 1.5 bolt, like this one at http://www.busdepot.com/j12625, but with the threadless section toward the bolt head.

Thank you for your help!!
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1974 Westy CampMobile - the OG!
1979 Transporter
1979 Transporter
1977 Transporter
1974 Transporter
1973 Transporter
1971 Westy
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Salvage yards
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No kidding? Nobody sells this bolt new? Is it necessary to have the shoulder on it?
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1979 Transporter
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

guanella74 wrote:
No kidding? Nobody sells this bolt new? Is it necessary to have the shoulder on it?


It may well be sold new for some application, so let us know when you find a source. Wink

Yes you should have the shoulder as it keeps the caliper properly located. Without it the caliper is apt to move around a bit thus loosening the bolts and causing problems we don't want to talk about.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This one may work.
Take the one from the other side with you to a Dodge dealer to compare it to.
http://www.factorychryslerparts.com/products/BOLT-...235AA.html
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2014 10:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK - I'll give an update with what I find on the bolts - surely somewhere has them.

In other news, I've got a couple more questions. I originally collected most of the (new) parts I have intending to use them to restore a '71 that ended up having too much body work. I'm now trying to use what I bought for the '71 on the '78.

Questions:
1) Are the rear bearing housings the same between 1971 and 1978? I already replaced the bearings in the '71 housings I have and they're ready to bolt in if so - would be a big help to use them.
2) Front calipers -I'm using the new ones I bought for the '71, but would like to know if the stopping power for the '71 calipers vs the '78 calipers is much different. I'm also using a Wagenswest beam, btw. I know the late bay calipers are bigger and accept thicker (14mm) pads, but is the stopping power different at all?
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1974 Westy CampMobile - the OG!
1979 Transporter
1979 Transporter
1977 Transporter
1974 Transporter
1973 Transporter
1971 Westy
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Samba gang! Here's an overdue update on the '78 build!

I found the caliper bolt I needed from Chris over at Busted Bus. Really good guy, and not the first time I've dealt with him - definitely give him a shout if you need anything, btw.

- I've redone the entire front and rear suspension and steering with Wagenswest Beam and 3.25" boomerangs in the rear. EVERYTHING is brand new all the way around, including brakes, calipers, wheel cylinders, master cylinder and reservoir, e-brake cables, all hardware, seals, wheel bearings, shocks, ball joints, tie rods and ends, drag link, accelerator cable, clutch cable...likely anything else you can think of under there! Once I had everything off the bus, I used POR in all the nooks and crannies, a healthy dose of Internal Frame coating from Eastwoods on any places I could finagle the hose into and spray it, and then WaxOyl for that factory undercoat finish and to protect the underside. I just got the bus aligned as well.

- I've also got the entire interior sound-proofed with FatMat including walls, floors and doors, and I used 2" insulation taped in with a 6 mil plastic sheet adhered over it to seal it in. I used double sided carpet tape for that.

- Inside, I used POR on any areas that remotely look rust-picious.

- I just passed emissions and the engine seems to be in phenomenal shape, verified by Verner over at Verner's VW. I'm fairly certain the mileage (51K) is original. Everything on this bus is OG and has very little wear. Even the maintenance items, down to the light bulbs, were all OG!

Major items remaining:
Align the rear. Itís currently 65 feet per mile Ďoutí. No shops are able to fit their alignment heads on the rear wheels (at least of the 5 shops I tried). Does anyone have any beta for this!? Or know of a shop in the Boulder/Denver area that can align lowered buses?
Interior Finish. Need to do the cargo floor and the rear bench seat as well as new front seats (likely from a Vanagon Westy)
Misc: Install belt line trim, get blinkers and horn working properly, fix a center pin issue, adjust the (hydraulic) valves, check compression, install door locks, and a myriad of other small issues.

Enjoy the pics!

First drive to work:
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It's all new!
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AFM Adjustment at Verner's VW (yes I kept track of starting/finishing points):
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FatMat!
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Refreshed the distributor entirely:
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The OG double relay was shot, so replaced with new Bosch unit:
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Dust cap to dust cap, new, new, new!
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Woops - should have looked at the forecast and put her in the garage...
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Emissions test station, attempt #3 (success!):
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Floors scrubbed before touching up with POR and then adding FatMat. I also welded on a new pedal pivot as the old was a little crusty. The pin was rust bonded in there.
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Quick shot under the front. Still need to install the splash pan underneath:
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Up on the old-school alignment rack at Hawley's Bear Alignment. He adjusted the front, but the rear is apparently impossible to adjust accurately without an adapter for his alignment heads. Bummer.
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Rolling!
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Any tips on aligning the rear myself? It's 65 FPM 'out'.

Thanks!
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1974 Westy CampMobile - the OG!
1979 Transporter
1979 Transporter
1977 Transporter
1974 Transporter
1973 Transporter
1971 Westy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I'm confused? Why was the shop not able to set the rear toe in/out and tracking with a toe bar? Usually, you set the rear tracking and alignment before doing the front alignment. If the rear tracking is off and is reset during the rear alignment, it can affect you steering wheel being centered or not.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Ok, I'm confused? Why was the shop not able to set the rear toe in/out and tracking with a toe bar? Usually, you set the rear tracking and alignment before doing the front alignment. If the rear tracking is off and is reset during the rear alignment, it can affect you steering wheel being centered or not.



I can't answer the missing "adapter" question, but toe and camber are so interrelated with movement of the wheel bearing housing back there, that a toe bar will not answer all the new questions that would arise if you did only the toe.

With a lowered vehicle, you have to jack the car up to factory ride height to get the toe and camber set at that position, then let the toe go out as it wishes as the camber goes negative when the vehicle settles back down to the current position.
Colin
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There was a pretty good DIY alignment thread either here on the bus forum or on the Vanagon forum somewhere. You really need minimal tools to do an alignment. A 18-24" level, a tape measure, some string, and then just normal mechanics tools to loosen the bolts. Beyond that you need a very level spot to do the work. You can use roofing shingles, work vinyl tiles, etc under the tires to get the level just right.
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guanella74
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 1:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
With a lowered vehicle, you have to jack the car up to factory ride height to get the toe and camber set at that position, then let the toe go out as it wishes as the camber goes negative when the vehicle settles back down to the current position.


Colin are you saying that I could bring it somewhere, have them jack up the bus level so they can fit their alignment heads on it, set the toe, and then do the rest of the alignment?

WildThings, if you can find that thread or know where to look, point me in the right direction! From what Hawley's said, 65 feet per mile out is pretty significant drag and I'd like to remedy it. He said that if he tried to fix the toe, he would have no idea which side to adjust because it's a measurement of both sides.
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1979 Transporter
1979 Transporter
1977 Transporter
1974 Transporter
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1971 Westy
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

guanella74 wrote:
Quote:
With a lowered vehicle, you have to jack the car up to factory ride height to get the toe and camber set at that position, then let the toe go out as it wishes as the camber goes negative when the vehicle settles back down to the current position.


Colin are you saying that I could bring it somewhere, have them jack up the bus level so they can fit their alignment heads on it, set the toe, and then do the rest of the alignment?

WildThings, if you can find that thread or know where to look, point me in the right direction! From what Hawley's said, 65 feet per mile out is pretty significant drag and I'd like to remedy it. He said that if he tried to fix the toe, he would have no idea which side to adjust because it's a measurement of both sides.


You can just kneel behind the rig and sight along the sidewalls of the rear tires to see how they align with the front tires. It should be obvious which one is off (note that they both may be off). It would also be a good idea to jack the rear tires up and spin them to see if they have any sidewall wobble or not, as any wobble would make sighting along the sidewall inaccurate. The owners manual will give the track width of the front and rear so with a little geometry you can figure out how the rear tires should line up with the fronts.
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

are they clamping to the tire, or the rim?
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