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You CAN Get A Cheap Windshield To Fit
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Amskeptic
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 6:49 pm    Post subject: You CAN Get A Cheap Windshield To Fit Reply with quote

I yanked my too-big-incorrectly-formed Chinese windshield after only a week because the seal was pulled away at the upper edges (I hate that) and the new TMI headliner was way too close to the ceiling with that support bow jammed too far forward because of the TMI headliner had incorrect dimensions between each panel:

Here's the BobD. Note that the seam is in full view behind the visors (i.e. closer to the driver), which themselves are fairly close to the headliner. Heck, note the windshield seal in its full seated glory:

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Now look at this poor Chloe. The windshield seal is about to pop free on the upper left corner (and the right corner), the headliner seam is hidden above the visors and its bow is crammed against the roof and the visors levitate in space:

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I did trim the headliner bow too short in my effort to get it unjammed from the roof in its new TMI-mandated spot. Without any tension, now it would not stay up at all.

I came up with a work-around.
Sawed two little blocks of wood that could fit in the headliner bow channel and drilled little headliner bow holes to exactly the depth I want for just the right bow tension so I could pull the headliner down to the windshield opening just as much as I wanted to get the space over the visors to BobD perfection. Damn if I didn't, either. Only took a DAY of tedious wood block drilling, and some new stapling (!) of the headliner seams where the shoddy TMI stitching kept unravelling.

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Did you notice that the windshield seal in the above photograph is now fully seated? I see so many buses with outer corners of the windshield pulling the seal away from the body on the outside and barely over the pinchweld on the inside. I wasn't going to have that! I sanded that Chinese windshield from 5:00PM to 11:45 PM last night. First, I set an original VW Audi Sigla windshield in the aperture of Chloe. Perfect spacing and arc . . . :

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Then I placed my $123.99 Chinese windshield in the aperture. Tight on both upper corners:

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It was also incorrectly curved, pushed out on the outside upper corners:

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If I only sanded the windshield at the upper corners, I would be exacerbating the insufficient curve problem. If I sanded the along the bottom, I could drop the whole thing for space, at the upper corners, but too much work. So I did too much work. Six hours of hand-sanding with a reject sander belt from the local glass shop:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


(good thing that TMI box doesn't have it's webpage advertising bullet "better than OEM!", I would have stepped on the windshield, Mario, I kid, I kid)

A fresh deluxe aluminum trim windshield seal is a real pain in the neck to install. Last time it took two of us a good thirty minutes and the bottom of the seal kept folding under so we couldn't press in the top run. This time, I was alone, me and my little helper:

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Went right in, fits great! See how the rubber now fills the corners?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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aeromech
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remind me to just buy good quality glass.
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remarkable persistence ... and quality results!

How is it you had to use the lousy Chinese glass?
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2014 10:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha nice

I got quoted $80 + "install" for a new one down in otay.
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bigdan.theplumber
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 2:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

i was quoted $120 out the door a few years ago in otay. but I don't remember where exactly. it was some place that only did glass.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 5:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny, I've been fighting with a PGW window for about two years. Seals look good all the way around, but if it rains I seem to get water coming in between the seal and the glass. Was going to try a thin bead of urethane in the groove.

Any ideas, Colin?
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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mike~

I will have to look, but I think I have used the FYG and PGW glass. the issue is, the glass is thinner than the OE. I actually took a micrometer to both when my glass guy was here.

that, and the crappy corners make these a treat to install Rolling Eyes
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

NOTE ;bug OR bus.. A rachet strap works great to hold pressure on windshield while working alone if you don't have a garage and a 2x4 Smile

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bunched up towels disburse the pressure evenly .
pink string holds rubber onto glass ; orange weed wacker line instead of string
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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No advice. I just love the color and finish on the bus. Nice motivating shot.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

eche_bus wrote:
Remarkable persistence ... and quality results!

How is it you had to use the lousy Chinese glass?


Glad you asked . . . it was the only glass available within my windshield-less-driving-range in the eight hour time slot I had left to have a prayer of getting to my family's Thanksgiving in Atlanta. And I got to my family Thanksgiving in Atlanta only an hour late, with a new headliner and a new windshield. Cool

The Road Warrior had a "Most Glorious Success Glassworks" windshield from Guangzhou China, damn thing had perfect optical characteristics, too, but it was as noted, thinner than VWAudi/Sigla and very much more prone to chips.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

obnoxiousblue wrote:

if it rains I get water coming in between the seal and the glass.
Any ideas, Colin?


Yep! You got what is known as a "leak". Shocked

I assume that you have a two year-old seal with your two years of suffering with the windshield? The seal normally has a good deal of tension that you note when first wrestling it onto the glass. Did you have to wrestle it on where the seal felt like it was actively resisting your efforts to slip over the edges of the glass?

Then, when you are installing the assembly onto the car, you have to compress the seal further as you work it into the aperture. Usually, it squirts right back out the minute you stop pushing. Once against the pinchweld, the glass-to-seal groove is pressing mightily all around the edge of the glass. Did you have to compress the whole thing to get it to suck into the aperture?

Anything less than the above exertions suggest that you might have the opposite of what I have been suffering from, namely, the glass is slightly smaller, the seal groove is slightly too deep, the rubber is slightly too skinny, or as I have discovered several times, the windshield channel was replaced and is now too low by only a millimeter or two, reducing the water-tight clamping pressure.

Flowable silicone sealant is a decent workaround, but don't use too much. They advertise "clear!" but it yellows grossly over time. Use only enough to fill whatever void may be there under the glass, and clean up at the time of application so that you *see* no evidence of having used it.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 10:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

When I bought the blue bus, all it's window seals were done with silicone or some other flexible sealant and I figured there would be leaks and seal deterioration. Surprisingly, there is no deterioration of the seals or leaks and I live in the worst climate for leaks; often 5" of rain in a day with 50-75 m winds for days. The North Pacific is brutal on vehicles. I believe this has made it possible for the windshield channel to be rust free, no evidence of rust.

Gonna be a bitch to get that crap off when the time comes.This is something I would not do on a re-install unless I had to but if circumstances warranted it I would not hesitate.

There must be thousands of "silicone type" sealants out there. Who can decide which is the best for this application? Maybe we can get a chime-in from a sealant engineer. Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 12:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colin - What is your time worth? I see a pattern here with your Chloe problems.

Skills - even back in 1980 the replacement windshields were thinner than originals. I bought an American made replacement about 1979 for my 1971 bus. It was thinner, noisier, and the first small pebble that hit it took it out. A friend who worked at the VW dealer got a factory one for me at cost. It was thicker like the original. This is not a new problem.

I've posted the PPG/PPW part number many times and where to get one. Ours fit perfectly and took about 10 minutes to put it in. Almost all windshields are made in China today other than a few that are made in Japan and Korea. It is the brand quality that varies.
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

grandpa pete wrote:
NOTE ;bug OR bus.. A rachet strap works great to hold pressure on windshield while working alone if you don't have a garage and a 2x4 Smile

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


bunched up towels disburse the pressure evenly .
pink string holds rubber onto glass ; orange weed wacker line instead of string



Heck yes
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you have the Fuyao brand glass? That's what I have, and it seems to fit well. Maybe I just don't know any better.

Robbie
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shiver me bones. I just today found an OG Sigla windshield at the junkyard,boy, this thread makes mehappy!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 9:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:
Do you have the Fuyao brand glass? That's what I have, and it seems to fit well. Maybe I just don't know any better.

Robbie


Robbie, if you sight along the inside seal at the upper corners, does it pull under at the corners? From the outside, does the seal appear to be slightly puckered out?

I do have the FY glass, the very worst glass currently available, but I am here to tell you, it has been beautifully stress-relieved with lots of sanding . . . Very Happy
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Is there any reason that a powered tool, such as a belt sander, should not be used to "recontour" a piece of glass?
I've sometimes had to reshape a piece of ceramic tile, mirror glass, or plumbing fixture, and the thought of doing it by
hand sanding simply boggles the mind.
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kreemoweet wrote:
Is there any reason that a powered tool, such as a belt sander, should not be used to "recontour" a piece of glass?
I've sometimes had to reshape a piece of ceramic tile, mirror glass, or plumbing fixture, and the thought of doing it by
hand sanding simply boggles the mind.


The glass shop that I bought the windshield from said, "bring it on down, we'll stick it on the belt sander." . . . . . " oh, by the way, we don't guarantee that it won't crack."

The most critical aspect to sanding a cheap thin Chinese windshield is localized heat build up. I could feel my piece of sand paper get hot under my hand and move along. I was not going to spray water all over the place in that garage to keep the windshield cool. It was an amusing evening of listening to pop radio "the Jet 100.7, Pensacola Florida" where the DJ fielded song requests from broken-hearted or love-agog teenagers.

Today I am drilling holes in my side vent window rubber and frames . . . Shocked
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
I do have the FY glass, the very worst glass currently available, but I am here to tell you, it has been beautifully stress-relieved with lots of sanding . . . Very Happy
Colin


the first one we got was a clear FY. And it broke after it was all the way in. My mistake was patting it "happy we are done here" and it cracked.

The PPG/PPW is tinted very light green with the reflective coating, is so much cooler in the sun and it actually cost me less from a local shop than the FY who we got from a major LA wholesaler. We picked it up while passing thru LA. Go figure that one out.
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