Normal MPG?

[crvc]

1967 bug, engine replaced with type-2 block, line-bored with new bearings, 1600cc AA pistons/cylinders, heads given new valves and guides at machine shop, stock muffler.

I've been noting mileage for months, finally sat down with note book and calculator. It tells me for the past 6 months the bug has been getting between 14 and 18mpg on city streets. In summer closer to 18mpg. In winter less than 15mpg.

I drive daily at 7-8000ft altitude with steep hills. There is a fuel filter behind the right rear tire. With the tire removed I smell gas. It seems leaky but not to the point of leaving a drip or stain on concrete. It has a 34PICT 3 carb, 2-3 years old and covered with staining and gas odor if I'm close enough.

Any comments or suggestions?

I'm ready to trade it in for a pickup. If I have to live with 18mph might as well have a truck.

TIA,

crvc

[Harleyelf]

If it's a single port you have a fuel leak, possibly at the fuel pump or from an ineffective float needle in the carburetor. Try putting the line to the carburetor in a soda or beer (notice you're in Mexico) bottle to see if it fills when at rest. If it does, change the fuel pump.

My dual port gets the same mileage in my '66 bus with '72 Ghia IRS.

I often wish I had stayed with the single port that came in it. It got 25 - 28 mpg.

[crvc]

[Harleyelf]

Yes, it's a 1641 now but mileage was 18 as a 1600. Having the aerodynamics of a loaf of bread is part of the formula, but the 041 heads are most of the consumption issue. Newish Brazilian 34 carburetor.

I just moved to Wisconsin from Florida - thought I saw a Mexico tag on your earlier posts. Wyoming has beer, too. I no longer imbibe; got tired of waking up in jail and not knowing what city I was in. After the first one, they drink me - so I gave up taking that first one.

[KTPhil]

Your carb is probably jetted too rich for your altitude. That, plus a fuel leak, and you won't get good mileage.

Choose a main jet one size smaller, and fix the leak.

What "filter" is under the fender? Are you thinking of a gas tank evaporative canister. A photo may help.

[crvc]

[crvc]

[thomas.]

I picked up a few mpg when I switched carbs on my dual port 1600. I exchange the stock 34pict for a 30 pict 1 with an adaptor to fit the manifold.Seems to run a lot better too. Maybe less top end but it was worth it.

[bluebus86]

Fix the leaks, old hoses weep fuel, filters can weep fuel also, usually the weep just before total failure. replace all hoses, don't forget the one under the gas tank! use SAE 30R9 or better hose, do not use 30R7 as the government mandated corn based fuels (thanks corn farmer lobby and crooked politicians for this) will deteriorate the lesser hoses used in the past. 30R 9 hose is lined with a Teflon like material to resist the mandated oxygenated fuels. these fuels also cost more per gallon and deliver 10-15%less mpg than the old fuels ( about a 3-5 mpg drop in an old bug from 30 mpg highway). These fuels can also eat up old pump diaphragm's and carb parts. The new oxygenated fuels often require on to put a bigger main jet in the carb, to compensate for the lower energy content of the fuel (if the original jet is used, the mixture will be too lean if you start running the new fuels, a bigger jet fixes this. (but wont restore fuel economy to that of the old fuels)

fix the carb leaks, the carb body should be clean, not stained form unattended leaks. Leaks not only can make her run badly, but also make a fire hazard. see the samba notes on safety wire install for carb and pump fittings this is a critical thing to do as 30+ year old carbs and fuel pumps do tend to have the fuel pipes loosen up and fall out. happened three times for me, once with a fire, extinguisher just barely saved my car.

once fixed, your bug ought to get about 25 mpg on highway at 65 mph with todays gas, maybe a little more, maybe a little less. some can better 30 mpg all highway. around town it can really drop, specially with lots of stops and short (Cold motor) drives. 15 mpg maybe but I often see about 20 mpg if all around town with lots of short trips, many stops, idle time. lots of variables involved with around town driving, more so than with highway driving mileage estimates, (unless you have a traffic jam on the "highway")

anyway fix all the leaks, replace all old hoses and safety wire your fittings, then do a tune up and see where you are at.

worse mileage in winter for city driving is likely because the motor is not fully warmed up for all or much of the drive, choke stays on when very cold for longer and the choke on uses more fuel, your fast idle cam also is likely to keep the idle speed up, using more fuel at stops. make sure these controls (choke and idle cam) are set correctly after dealing with fuel leaks. also be sure your warm up thermostat is fully functional, with all the vanes operating. if your warm up system is not working, you will have worse mileage than if it is working, specially in winter.
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[Harleyelf]

My case is a type 2 - at least, the half with a serial number is (GEX sold me a type2/type3 mix); perhaps I have the type 2 cam as well. Good low end torque, adequate cruising speed. I'd rather be able to keep up with the newer cars on the highway than get good mileage.

[crvc]

[mikec4193]

Hi CRVC

I really hope you can figure it out and get better MPG's than what you are getting now. I know now if that is all these little cars are gonna get with the current day gasoline...I might not be in as much of a rush to purchase one. I remember my dad telling me back in the late 1950's he was getting 30+ mpg with his 1957 VW beetle...that was a different time tho...newer car, better gas etc etc...please keep us in the loop with the progress...
I am very curious to see what unfolds here...

MikeC
_________________
Dad bought his first Beetle on Dec 17, 1953.

[Todd66]

You can get much better fuel mileage than that. It is all in the tuning. Look through the wideband thread in the performance section. My daughter's 66 with 1600 single port and stock carb gets 26 to 28 on the highway, and it is too rich. I haven't taken the time to re jet it. My 2275 with dual 44 IDFs in my 66 is getting 38 to 39 on the highway. I have spent a lot of time on it to try and get it set up correctly and am still fine tuning. You will get better fuel mileage with dual carbs, but can be more work. Just realize driving style on any car affects fuel mileage greatly.

[crvc]

The distributor is 3 years old with petronix ignition, so no points, etc. Plugs are recent. It's timed correctly. I noticed black inside the tailpipes. The fuel pump is stock. I don't remember the figure but using a pressure tester it was within normal limits.

crvc

[Anvil]

I live at 6,000 feet. I average just a touch over 25-mpg with mixed mountain driving and that's a 2180 with dual Weber 44s. You definitely have something wrong. I would get just a touch over 30-mpg on the hwy with a mild 1914 and dual Kads.
_________________
A man with any character at all must have enemies and places he is not welcome—in the end we are not only defined by our friends, but those aligned against us.

[Dr OnHolliday]

Ruffly 22 mpg city / 34 mpg freeway
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1965 Type 1 sunroof Baja / about 70k miles on self-rebuilt '74 1600 and counting / SP heads and aftermarket valve keepers / non-doghouse shroud with external cooler and filter / 1.5 qt extended sump / Weber 32/36 DFAV progressive carb / 009 dist with Pertronix / 1.25 ratio rockers and ball adjusters / 1.5" stainless steel J-pipes and carbon steel baja exhaust

[tictac1997]

I just had my bottom end built by Don at Buggyworks in Indiana. Counterbalanced crank, H-beam rods, 110 cam. On top it has the bigger cylinders (heavy wall), stock heads, dual 40s, and I drive the thing like I stole it! Runs low 11s jn 1/8 mile.
I wash shocked when I calculated 30 mpg. Maybe I did the math wrong?
4 tanks later, still getting 30mpg.
_________________
AWS Certified Welding Inspector
AWS Certified Welding Educator
NDE Level II VT, PT, MT, UTT

[KTPhil]

I can't tell you what jet size to use, but since your leaky carb should be cleaned and replaced anyway (but re-use your old float valve, new ones are junk), you'll be removing the main jet anyway. The size is stamped on it. Check into the archives to find what your carb usually had, then order a few sized smaller and be ready on carb cleaning day.

[Max Welton]

Here's some reading for you.

Shifting for maximum mileage
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=3076678#3076678

The Pretty Good Mileage Thread
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458970

New engine, crappy gas mileage
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=2701412#2701412

There are certainly more. But in my opinion, this issue generally comes down to the driver. Not only how the driver operates the vehicle but how he/she decides what to do to the car. A poorly set up car to me reflects the poor decisions of of the owner/operator. Applying advice one does not understand is a very efficient way to do that.

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[KTPhil]

Also check out:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=289344

and the links there.

I just re-read your original post... that 34 carb is too large for a single-port 1600. That engine came with a 30 PICT-1 carb. I would look for the right carb before playing with jets. And you still may want to go one size smaller than stock at your altitude.