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sc-surfer Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2005 Posts: 865 Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 11:01 pm Post subject: |
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1621,
That was the site I was talking about. I was leaning toward the good stuff but I'm not opposed to saving money when possible. I do agree with you though, I don't want problems later. Unless I get some really positive feedback about the roofing materials I will most likely do the Raammat.
Thanks for the info!!
Monte _________________ '89 Syncro Westy
Catalog of Vans at SDM 2010
Westfalia, Syncro & Tristar Reproduction decals here.
* * * Coming Soon: Washable seat covers for westy bench seat...keep the pets off the upholstery! * * * |
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keithwwalker Samba Member
Joined: May 30, 2005 Posts: 886
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Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 12:44 am Post subject: |
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I've got the roofing stuff in my doka. Let's give it a summer to see what happens. I have it on vertical panels as well as on the floor.
No problems yet, but the hot weather in this part of the country just started. |
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iiigoiii Samba Member
Joined: January 05, 2008 Posts: 307 Location: Bay Area, CA
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Posted: Mon May 19, 2008 9:03 am Post subject: |
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a couple of notes on this from my research....
toxicity: since some roofing products are made only for use in non-habitable areas (and the warnings on the larger roll material called bituthene are positively TERRIFYING), i requested the MSDS for peel-n-seal from the manufacturer. it had very low toxicity ratings, related to the very slight offgassing that the asphalt it's made with gives off. however, it turns out that several companies manufacture stuff under the same name of peel-n-seal, so other versions may be worse.
vertical surfaces: turns out that a few people have had asphalt-based products gradually creep down vertical surfaces in hot temps. where it's inside a door, in some cases it gradually got to the point where it stuck to the window when rolled down, and made a mess that's hard to get out of the door and off the window & mechanism. the butyl rubber products (most newer sound dampeners) are rated for higher temps. |
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Rhinoculips Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2005 Posts: 918 Location: Keystone, Colorado
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Posted: Thu May 29, 2008 6:29 pm Post subject: |
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A cheaper and supposedly just as good alternative to Dynamat is FatMat. 50 square feet is $80 and 100 Square feet goes for $130. This is the route I am going with when the bigger projects are done with.
http://www.fatmat.com _________________ “May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” - Edward Abbey
Click to view image |
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HeftySmurf Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2008 Posts: 879 Location: Washington, USA
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:30 am Post subject: |
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Great stuff,
Does any one have a good estimate of material needed in doing the interior with tape and the sound deadening paint? I too think I am going gto steer clear of the roofing tape as well, cheaper yes, but not worth the future pontential damage. |
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vanagonforever Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2007 Posts: 211 Location: Baltimore, MD
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 7:38 am Post subject: |
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I did the front cab area of my Westy using Frost King duct insulation that I bought from Lowe's. I ended up using around three rolls of the stuff. Honestly I not sure that I would do the same thing again. While the road noise is reduced it is far from quiet while I'm driving. I could probably make some more improvements by doing the same thing in the galley area and added an undercoating but its a little hard to say exactly how much of an improvement it would be. Basically the job is just a pain and I'm not sure it is worth the time investment.
Once I deal with my kitchen seam rust then I'll go ahead and insulate the rest of the cabin and I'll post an update. Overall though I've been a little disappointed by the improvements considering the time required to do the job. _________________ 1986 2WD 2.1L WBX Vanagon Weekender
1983.5 1.9L WBX Vanagon Westfalia |
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MrPolak Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2004 Posts: 1337 Location: AG ,atnaltA
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mr. c Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2007 Posts: 153 Location: Black Hills, SD
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 2:43 pm Post subject: |
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Yeah, definately worth reading.
eta. damping. face! _________________ Abe: 1987 Syncro Full Camper, TiiCo engine conversion, A3 pulley kit |
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mr_vanagon Samba Member
Joined: March 31, 2005 Posts: 589 Location: Southern Illinois (GO SALUKIS)
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Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:17 pm Post subject: |
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I've been thinking about sound deadening for a long time. The only reason I have resisted ripping out all the interior and dropping big cash on Dynamat (or any other brand) is the un-removable nature of the stuff. The last thing I want is a layer of asphalt glued to the top of metal panels that could rust, dent or bend in the future. If I need to repair a panel because or rust or an accident what do I do about the perma-layer of gunk? I'd be a lot more excited about a removable mat or something like that. _________________ '68 Autostick Bug Mom bought new
'89 Tintop Vanagon Dad bought new |
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charrepz Samba Member
Joined: September 01, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: Thousand Oaks
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Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 8:29 am Post subject: Fail |
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This is no no. If you install your sound material on the side panels and not the inside of actual door or panel you will find it very difficult to do any repair to your window regulator or door locks with out removing the mat in the future.
Peel and Stick is a great product in 6' rolls for the doors and hard to get inside panels. Inside directly on the inside of the exterior panels will allow the window to operate properly and give you the sound dampening you are seeking. Don't believe the BS about these products failing in extreme weather. They will last and hold up just as well at the brand name products.
Plus these Van really need the front behind the dash done to have a decent sound dampening project completed. The doors make a huge difference alone but when you dampen the front and |
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Merian Samba Member
Joined: January 04, 2014 Posts: 5212 Location: Orygun
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