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Wearing Lifters
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 09, 2013 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh ,so thats what killed my cat, I thought it was funny when he was licking my lifters&lobes, that zinc must taste good.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just had a lifter failure much like yours. I too purchased a cheapish 45.00 dollar set of Chinese lifters from a major supplier and I think they began to fail from the moment I started the engine. I have now decided that you get what you pay for and to be ware of the current batch of cheap Chinese lifters. I am going with top line Cb Performance or Engle lifters from now on, and using zink additive.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2013 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh, wow, that's really good to know.
Ever since grandma started keeping her cat in my shop,
I am getting sick of picking hair out of all my parts and my stuff getting knocked over and the smell of the cat box.
Mark, was that the WebCam/Torco stuff?

Was going to put out some anti-freeze, but didn't want to incriminate myself.
Obviously, antifreeze should be nowhere near a shop like mine...

Anybody know a good way to get rid of an extra cat or two???
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2013 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

New "Kitty Cam Lube" sounds like a great idea! (I'm kidding, I have two cats who stay out of my shop.)
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Juanito84
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aha! Here's a thread about the problem I have. So yes, my lifters (op's rebuild) are quite worn. Not as bad as the ones on page one but getting there. And that's pretty bad seeing how it has stock springs and stock cam.

Questions:
1. Is it alright to use my current VW cam that was with new replacement lifters provided it mic's out ok and I remove any sharp edges?

2. Would I be alright to use Engle lifters on a VW cam? ACN recommends Brazilian lifters, are these the best option? What about ACN HD lifters? For twice the price as Engle lifters are they any better?

I'm not trying to go way overboard like UDO's or Thorsten Pieper's, but I don't want a ZDDP addicted engine either.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 2:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the lifters are badly dished then the cam should be re-ground or re-cycled.

I'd use bugpack lifers, ACN secret brand should be ok too.
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mark tucker
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

every oe vw camIve seen is already deburred on the edges real well. as far as reusing it that would be a visual thing.I have also never seen a dead oe vw cam.week springs do not make a cam last longer.that may shorten the life of the lifters and /or the cam.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Juanito84 wrote:
Aha! Here's a thread about the problem I have. So yes, my lifters (op's rebuild) are quite worn. Not as bad as the ones on page one but getting there. And that's pretty bad seeing how it has stock springs and stock cam.

Questions:
1. Is it alright to use my current VW cam that was with new replacement lifters provided it mic's out ok and I remove any sharp edges?

2. Would I be alright to use Engle lifters on a VW cam? ACN recommends Brazilian lifters, are these the best option? What about ACN HD lifters? For twice the price as Engle lifters are they any better?

I'm not trying to go way overboard like UDO's or Thorsten Pieper's, but I don't want a ZDDP addicted engine either.


The lack of ZDDP in the new oils is a big reason why a stock cam/ valve spring engine can destroy itself. The quality of lifters/cam is every bit just as important as the oil.

Today you walk into a parts store and you have two basic choices: a synthetic oil or a stripped down conventional oil without a ton of anti friction additives. NEITHER of these oils were around when VW built your engine. ZDDP additives make it possible to have a "vintage" oil again, take advantage of that. Don't be cheap on lifters or oil, or you're just going to have problems again and your bargain oil and lifters just cost you more money in the end.

Your engine was already born addicted to ZDDP like a crack baby, covert it to a roller cam or deal with a few more bucks on oil to be safe.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Valvoline Racing Oil has zinc in it.
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From us, any of these are compatible with that cam.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Stock-Cam-Followers-Lifters-BZ-Type-1-Set-of-8-p/113-109-309c.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-Set-of-8-p/4060.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Eagle-Lifters-Cam-Followers-Type-1-Engines-Set-p/eagle-lifters.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Racing-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-p/4060-10.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-Engines-8-p/acnhdt1lifters.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Udo-Becker-Tool-Steel...ifters.htm

I would not use SCAT lifters on this, I only recommend SCAT lifters on SCAT cams or Web Cams.

YMMV
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
If the lifters are badly dished then the cam should be re-ground or re-cycled.

I'd use bugpack lifers, ACN secret brand should be ok too.


Thanks! I'll be giving Web Camshafts a call.

[email protected] wrote:
From us, any of these are compatible with that cam.

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Stock-Cam-Followers-Lifters-BZ-Type-1-Set-of-8-p/113-109-309c.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-Set-of-8-p/4060.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Eagle-Lifters-Cam-Followers-Type-1-Engines-Set-p/eagle-lifters.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Bugpack-Racing-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-p/4060-10.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/ACN-Cam-Followers-Lifters-Type-1-Engines-8-p/acnhdt1lifters.htm

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Udo-Becker-Tool-Steel...ifters.htm

I would not use SCAT lifters on this, I only recommend SCAT lifters on SCAT cams or Web Cams.

YMMV


Looks like I'll have to make up my mind. (Udo, no, Bugpack, no, ACN, no Udo, no, Engle, no, Bugpack, no...)

For the record I'm not trying to cheap out on oil. I'll be aiming at vintage levels of ZDDP if not a tad more. With that being said I have a friend who has used SM and SN levels of ZDDP ever since these oils cam available. And this is a daily driver, hot summers and cold winters, stop and go, mountains, etc. So it seems to me that the lifter damage seen on some engines is probably more material quality related than oil/ZDDP related. Hence my worrying.

Thanks for all the responses though!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get a grind #73
They have a "stock" grind but it's not as good.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The last 15 years I have had great success with Engle cams and Bugpack lifters. I break engines in at 1500-1800 RPM's for 20-25 minutes with Brad Penn or Valvoline VR-1 racing oil.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
Get a grind #73
They have a "stock" grind but it's not as good.


Thanks for the advice! What's the difference between a #73 and stock grind? Will it work better even if I use a 34PICT carb? Thanks!
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 17, 2015 10:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The #73 is mild enough to work with stock carb no problem.

to know the difference we would have to know what "stock" is.
IMO, the stock cam was 210/215 duration at .050" It seems unlikely ALL 30 million stock cams are the same tho!!
The #73 is 224 at .050" and about .030 more lift

So....ah, you could say it's halfway inbetween stock and an engle 100

It is used commonly in type-4 engines, but not for type-1............because type-1 guys think a engle 100 is mild, I guess
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 8:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have around 70000 miles on my cam/lifters. they got 1 shot of camshield zinc when it was built. no more after that and no zinc oil.I have just this last nov started using apart synthetic zinc fortified oil,it's $15.88 for a 5 qt jug at wally world,thats $about $10. cheeper than the full syn I had been using. so... yes the cam/lifter needs to be broken with zinc.but the removel of the zinc isant the entire reason for dead cams&lifters.probably less than 25%.
being from the v8 performance world Ive seen guys with more dead cams that I can count and that was befor the zinc was gone.and also stock oem cams so......... I dont swallow blaming the zinc shit on every cam&lifter. have you ever debured a cam??? how about a v8 cam? it dosent have 2x the lobes it has 4 times the lobes.not many people are willing to do it.....kinda like the vw guys....aw it's good enough out of the box. Shocked
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 18, 2015 11:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

modok wrote:
The #73 is mild enough to work with stock carb no problem.

to know the difference we would have to know what "stock" is.
IMO, the stock cam was 210/215 duration at .050" It seems unlikely ALL 30 million stock cams are the same tho!!
The #73 is 224 at .050" and about .030 more lift

So....ah, you could say it's halfway inbetween stock and an engle 100

It is used commonly in type-4 engines, but not for type-1............because type-1 guys think a engle 100 is mild, I guess


Thanks! #73 grind it is then. It looks like the type 4 guys report better power, fuel mileage and cooler heads with this cam. It also seems to be close to the CB2231 (.313" Cam Lift, .344" Valve Lift (1.1 Rockers), 268 degrees of advertised duration, and 228 degrees of duration at .050", on a 107 Lobe Center.) So this cam grind is right up my ally.

Thanks again Modok!

I wonder if Web Camshafts is open tomorrow. There I go wondering again.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Thoughts on flat tappets Reply with quote

JerryB wrote:
then change that oil at fill with an oil with high ZZDP PLUS an additive.


You really don't want to use a "high ZDDP" oil AND a ZDDP additive.
Too much of a good thing is not good.
A break in oil such as Bradd Penn's Break in oil is all that is needed. Then after the cam is broke in drain and put in something like VR-1 for the first 500 miles, change it and run it for 1000 miles and then change it on a regular schedule

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 19, 2015 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
..... I dont swallow blaming the zinc shit on every cam&lifter. have you ever debured a cam??? how about a v8 cam? it dosent have 2x the lobes it has 4 times the lobes.not many people are willing to do it.....kinda like the vw guys....aw it's good enough out of the box. Shocked


Thanks Mark for repeatedly stressing this point. I will do this on my build as it makes total sense to me.
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PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's mostly an issue on US and China made cams - if it doesn't have sharp edges you don't need to worry - if the cam is ground correctly the edges don't really come into play.
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