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Tcash
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Joined: July 20, 2011
Posts: 12844
Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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 Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:32 pm Post subject: |
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| raygreenwood wrote: |
If you really want to stop noxious, fumes from burning oil on the heat exchangers....simply stop the oil leaks. I havecnit had a leaking valve cover in about 30 years.
But your work on restoring the heat exchangers is excellent! Ray |
Thanks for watching, Ray.
A couple of people have mentioned this now,
but the point being is that POs of these cars might have let oil get in there.
Once it's in, it's in.
(And burns)
I don't have leaky valve cover gaskets either.
Once we have them clean, it should be easy enough to keep them that way...
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Bus Motor Build
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21513
Location: Oklahoma City
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| Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| I will have to go the same route on my 412 HXs. Mine dont havd the nice fins inside though. Just bare pipes I believe so mine should be easier. Ray |
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 9:20 am Post subject: |
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Just to follow up on the thread here...
I ran-in the motor on my stand.
The motor did the old 2500RPM-for-10-minutes thing twice to break in the cam.
(using some carbs i had here).
The air coming from the heater-box outlets smelled toasty fresh!
This insulation for heater boxes seems to work well:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RBC1AG/ref=pe_825000_114657650_TE_item
Still have to cross 29 Palms in summer to really know for sure,
but,
so far so good.
A fresh motor does get decently hot at run-in because it's all still wearing in.
At $55 for a roll of that stuff, it's worth it to stop breathing burning oil all day IMHO.
BTW, i documented the buildup of this engine on the old STF, if any of you care to see my version of a bus motor build on the cheap...
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
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Bus Motor Build
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tootype2crazy
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2007
Posts: 1276
Location: St. Louis Missouri
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| Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 5:12 pm Post subject: |
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It should be noted that all air-cooled VW's heat stinks by design, whether oil leaks into the boxes or not. When you sit idling to warm up or in traffic, exhaust gets pulled into the engine bay and pumped into the car. Traffic worsens this because you pick up other people's exhaust and your own. The only way to get the heat not to stink is use a vanagon-type setup where a dedicated fan runs the heater, not the engine's fan, and draw air from inside the cabin. Having driven buses for 15 winters daily, believe me, I have tried everything to get the heater to not stink and heat well. What finally worked was a BA6 gas heater run independently of the engine's heat.
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air-cooled or nothing for me
1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's) |
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sat Jan 31, 2015 6:14 pm Post subject: |
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| tootype2crazy wrote: |
| believe me, I have tried everything to get the heater to not stink and heat well. |
Blocking off the right pillar vent during cold weather helps with a T4. |
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Clatter
Samba Member
Joined: September 24, 2003
Posts: 7537
Location: Santa Cruz
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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| tootype2crazy wrote: |
| It should be noted that all air-cooled VW's heat stinks by design, whether oil leaks into the boxes or not. When you sit idling to warm up or in traffic, exhaust gets pulled into the engine bay and pumped into the car. Traffic worsens this because you pick up other people's exhaust and your own. The only way to get the heat not to stink is use a vanagon-type setup where a dedicated fan runs the heater, not the engine's fan, and draw air from inside the cabin. Having driven buses for 15 winters daily, believe me, I have tried everything to get the heater to not stink and heat well. What finally worked was a BA6 gas heater run independently of the engine's heat. |
Not to argue this,
Because you are right,
But,
In theory, if the compartment is sealed correctly,
The only intake air -should- be up through the intake vents.
This would purportedly be up high/far away from the exhaust discharge to not pull in fumes...
A project I have been meaning to start would be to get a cabin-air intake for the booster blower.
Another bus would sacrifice its 'over the torsion housing' ductwork.
Then, the discharge vent at the bottom of the rear seat could be re-purposed as a return air intake.
This return would go over the torsion housing and to the intake on the booster blower.
Seems that, if the booster makes enough pressure, the flaps at the bottom of the fan shroud would be forced closed, and all heating air would come from the booster.
Perhaps on the highway, or otherwise at speed, the engine fan might overpower the booster, open the flaps a bit, and allow dirty cooling air,
However,
At speed, there shouldn't be contamination...
There's that 'should' word again...
I can tell you that most of those old heater boxes are dirty, and/or oily inside.
If Mother VW puts a method for opening and cleaning in the Bentley Bible, there's a reason..
There's also the issue of all that weight, and where it sits, that really gives me the hump about those things too. But that's another subject.
BA6 envy right here...
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Wildthings
Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005
Posts: 50338
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| Posted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 2:42 pm Post subject: |
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| When under power the exhaust gases leaving the tail pipe pretty well are blown away clear of the body and don't get a chance the recirculate back into the intakes, but on decel the exhaust gases just trickle out of the pipe and are sucked up behind the bus and some fumes make it back into the pillar vents. |
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