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The Stupid Question Thread
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DrKamikazi
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2015 2:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok got another question on my rebuild of my 2L GE bus engine. As stated before I am replacing my cam with a solid stock grind webcam, I am reusing the rockers and arms from before as they are fine (may have been replaced when PO rebuilt...so I got a set of chromoly push rods and solid lifters from the type4store, and Im wondering if I can just use the measurements from my old pushrods or if the geometry will still be off even though I am doing everything stock. I also got the stock size piston and cylinder set from type4store and am reusing the crankshaft and rods.
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kkjellquist
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not a stupid question, but a blonde moment.....laying in bed last night and it suddenly hit me how the torsion bar works! It twists! Duh!

I've never been a car guy until I bought my bus and things like this are still pretty new to me.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kkjellquist wrote:
Not a stupid question, but a blonde moment.....laying in bed last night and it suddenly hit me how the torsion bar works! It twists! Duh!

I've never been a car guy until I bought my bus and things like this are still pretty new to me.


Same as sway bars and coil springs. Wink
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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:29 pm    Post subject: What's different on a late '78 Reply with quote

As this is my first post, I'll apologize for all the stupid questions that are coming and thank you for the reams of information that I have already got from this site. My '78 VW Westfilia was manufactured 6/78 by the tag on the door jamb and I have run across a couple of parts with a manufacture date of 6/30, so it's gotta be pretty late, but everything I come across is '78. Sometimes I can't figure something out and I think maybe it's a '79 thing, but it's always the PO in some way. It does have a '79 exhaust, but ...
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Last edited by LouFilia on Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
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asiab3
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 2:37 pm    Post subject: Re: What's different on a late '78 Reply with quote

LouFilia wrote:
As this is my first post, I'll apologize for all the stupid questions that are coming and thank you for the reams of information that I have already got from this site. My '78 VW Westfilia was manufactured 6/78 by the tag on the door jamb and I have run across a couple of parts with a manufacture date of 6/30, so it's gotta be pretty late, but everything I come across is '78. Sometimes I can't figure something out and I think maybe it's a '79 thing, but it's always the PO in some way.


Regardless of your buses age in the lineup, the majority of the problems we face fall into three categories:

1) PO hacks
2) poor quality replacement parts put in by yourself or #1
3) go back and read the first two Wink

Welcome to TheSamba. We'll try to help you as best as we can. I recommend reading around and searching extensively for questions you have. That way you'll appease your curiosity and get to "know" some of these fine folks. Many of them have been here since before I was old enough to drive.

Robbie
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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 3:59 pm    Post subject: Exhaust/heater question, what's missing? Reply with quote

LouFilia wrote:
As this is my first post, I'll apologize for all the stupid questions that are coming and thank you for the reams of information that I have already got from this site. My '78 VW Westfilia was manufactured 6/78 by the tag on the door jamb and I have run across a couple of parts with a manufacture date of 6/30, so it's gotta be pretty late, but everything I come across is '78. Sometimes I can't figure something out and I think maybe it's a '79 thing, but it's always the PO in some way.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


One of my big questions is the exhaust, the exhaust system looks like the '79 Federal style (bus is Fed, not CA model) and I have these. I believe they hook to the vent/exit side of the heater control valve (tell if I am wrong), but the heater control valves have a much larger exit/vent. Am I just missing a reducer, has this been cobbled together, or ???

PS, I was checking the valves (and adjustment, but mostly looking for problems), which, though they were adjusted just before by a well known shop, made a huge difference.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 4:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

78/79's all have (or had) the dump tubes on the heater valves, looks like you've got solid lifters (or at leat the rockers for them) so it's very likely your engine (and the heater valves on it) are from something earlier and lack the second port for the dump tubes.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:10 pm    Post subject: Thank you and crud Reply with quote

Thanks for the picture, it is literally worth a thousand words, I see what's missing, (only on one side). But now I have more questions. The engine appears to check out as coming with the bus, I know the tranny was replaced (you have to wonder what they did to it in 71,000 miles), but I guessed the heads were original. I definitely have hydro lifters, but now have to check the pushrods and try to figure out what's the 411 on the heads. I know they both have a big 56 cast into them between the cylinders, but didn't get the little numbers, so off come the valve covers again. Someday I'll know the difference between the two kinds of rocker assemblies and where the important numbers are on the head and won't have to do this twice. So two new dumb questions and I'd still like to know what might be different on a late '78

#1 BusDaddy, what's the name of that picture and the post it's in so I can better search next time. I found a pic of what I originally thought were the two un-used tailpipes on my westy and figured out what they were for that way. Thanks

#2 and 2a This link is dead http://tunacannet.blogspot.com//t4/reference/cylhead.htm, so is that info on part and casting numbers available somewhere else and 2a, does the giant 56 (might be 66) tell me anything and where might I find this info?
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 04, 2015 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your worry with the heads is that the springs between the rocker arms don't play well with hydraulic lifters, hydraulic lifter engines came with solid spacers instead of the springs.
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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:25 am    Post subject: I'm more confused than usual Reply with quote

Okay, I just spent the last few hours trying to figure this out

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Bus Daddy said the rockers were from a solid lifter engine from this pic, but if you blow it up, I can see a spacer, not a spring

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


you can see the spacer a little better here

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


and it's got a 14mm nut, which means 10mm adjusters, another sign of hydros

I know that BusDaddy knows way more than me, but I think it's got the right rockers for hydros

please tell me if I'm wrong
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Stuartzickefoose
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like you. Your like the next robbie, or curtis, or eche. You are a very good poster, very clear and with pictures. Good job and keep up the great work!

Did you adjust to .006 or 1.5 turns past zero? Did it run well?

If you push really hard (or soft if the lifter bled down) on the lower end of the rocker, the pushrod, and it can flex inward, you most likely have hydros.

Pull a push rod out (remove one pair of rockers, careful, spring loaded sideways, so hold the ends together as you remove) and take a pic all the way doen the tube and the lifter, that would really help.

Where is your build thread on this? Would love to follow your work. Smile
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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:35 am    Post subject: adjusted picture Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This adjusted and cropped version shows the spacer better
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LouFilia
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 1:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked it had hydros by pushing right after I did cylinder number one (it was really, really screwed down tight). All cylinders adjusted out 1 1/2 to 3 1/2 turns before the adjuster lost contact with the valve. I was shocked at the difference, but it's hard to gauge exactly when you lose contact. The engine ran great after I did the valves. I couldn't believe the difference, I have done a lot of valves on big american engines with solids and this was easily my best result doing the valves on a running engine. I really don't know what I'm looking at in a type 4, but all the valve train looked stock, the heads looked nice enough to be a rebuild/upgrade (but I've always liked VW castings). All I really cared about was that all my valves lined up perfectly (actually it was just the retainers, more impressive in my mind) and I had figured out why my compression number was 110 on number 1 compared to 125-130 everywhere else. It was a great bus day as my massive package from Bus depot had also arrived.

Build coming, I've only had her for three weeks, I find builds need a certain distance so I know what I screwed up, hopefully not like this. (edit)
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whoops!, thought I saw springs in there opposed to spacers, carry on, looking good!
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 8:36 am    Post subject: Type IV (4) Exhaust Systems Reply with quote

To link to this post
Code:
[url=https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7544206#7544206]Type IV (4) Exhaust Systems[/url]


Exhaust System Bay Window ID

Bus 1700/1800/2000 Exhaust/ Heater 1972-1979

72-78 Bus Heater Box Replacement


Last edited by Tcash on Fri Jun 15, 2018 11:22 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2015 11:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Type 1 engine build for my 1971 Bus: Anyone know if it's ok to run the very bottom oil ring from an 87mm piston on an 88mm piston? Seems to fit Ok, just a wider gap and it's got a little less cross sectional area but the thickness is the same. Photos here: Ring Size Question.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 4:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Type 1 engine build for my 1971 Bus: Anyone know if it's ok to run the very bottom oil ring from an 87mm piston
on an 88mm piston? Seems to fit Ok, just a wider gap and it's got a little less cross sectional area but the thickness is the same. Photos here: Ring Size Question.

You would be better of sending it back. 1 mm is going to give you about 0.039" more end gap. With a end gap spec. of 0.014"-0.018".
Good Luck
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so do I need to get a whole set of rings just to change the one of the "Oil Control Ring scrapers"?
Ring Diagram.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Danwvw wrote:
Ok so do I need to get a whole set of rings just to change the one of the "Oil Control Ring scrapers"?
Ring Diagram.


Not necessarily, but buying an entire set of rings is probably the fastest and maybe even the cheapest way to go about doing it.
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 10:14 pm    Post subject: smoking dip stick Reply with quote

Shocked after a 45 minute drive i checked my oil levels and notice that there was smoke coming from the dip stick tube. How bad is it? What does that indicate? It is a new engine with about 1500 miles on it. It had a tune up and oil change every 500 miles to break it in
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