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velvetgreen Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2004 Posts: 2744 Location: Canada
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Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:05 pm Post subject: Replacing Dual Port Manifold Boot |
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All- I need to replace the pass side intake manifold boot on my stock DP engine in a 65 bus. You would think this should not be that complicated. I would prefer to not drop the engine for what *ought* to be a fairly straightforward procedure, however there sure is not much roof to work with engine in bus.
Can someone tell me if there is a way to do this without having to take an advanced yoga class or dropping the engine? If you have ever tried to replace this boot you will know the PITA I am talking about |
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Campy Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 4933 Location: Chico, CA
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Posted: Wed Mar 25, 2015 11:28 pm Post subject: |
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I did it years ago so it can be done. I will get back to you if I can remember how I did it. _________________ Don't worry; be happy. (Baba) |
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Stanagon Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2003 Posts: 4186 Location: Boston, MA
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pyrOman Fire Master
Joined: July 21, 2003 Posts: 12406 Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:37 am Post subject: Re: Replacing Dual Port Manifold Boot |
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velvetgreen wrote: |
All- I need to replace the pass side intake manifold boot on my stock DP engine in a 65 bus.
Can someone tell me if there is a way to do this without having to take an advanced yoga class or dropping the engine? |
No. Not "advanced" yoga but some does help.
Consider the amount of time AND frustration it WILL take versus the same dropping the motor to do it. Treat it as you would to say replace the clutch = motor drop, replce item, inspect all sorts of things while you're at it, reinstall motor, drive away! Should not take more than a couple of hours without rushing it. _________________ Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51121 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Stanagon wrote: |
I don't know if this can be done with engine installed. If so, you'll likely spend more time than if you just drop the motor and do it that way. |
It can, but after doing it once you'll drop the motor the next time, everyone has to learn the hard way.
X3 on dropping the motor, the end job will be better quality and no doubt a few other things need looking at or cleaning while you are in there. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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earlywesty Samba Member
Joined: May 03, 2004 Posts: 2357 Location: In the woods, Ontario
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 6:58 am Post subject: |
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Will it run well enough to make it here? Bring it down and we'll drop it, check everything out and get it roadtrip ready |
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OB Bus Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2003 Posts: 2535 Location: Ocean Beach in Beautiful BLUE California
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:35 am Post subject: |
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Yes it can be done. I have done it twice on the '69. Pull the carb off. Loosen the boot clamps and then remove the left (driver's side) end casting. Remove the center bolt holding the center manifold section to the block. Slide the center section to the left, pull off the old boots and replace with the new. That is a bitch to do - note "yoga" reference above - re-clamp boots and replace all components.
If you have a good place and the ability to drop the engine I would do so. Take care of all the small stuff while you have the engine out.
I do not have a convenient place to pull the engine and am getting a little old to do so. _________________ Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper. |
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velvetgreen Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2004 Posts: 2744 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:41 am Post subject: |
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Thanks all it sounds like an engine drop is in order! Much obliged |
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Clara Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2003 Posts: 12399
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:37 am Post subject: |
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You can replace the DP boots by moving a bunch of stuff out of the way with the engine installed.
I think you have to remove air cleaner, carb, fan belt, undo gen strap, undo intake to heat risers, remove thermostat under motor (un bolt thermostat, unscrew thermostat) lift gen out of the way (don't need to remove it IIRC) so you can shift the manifold up so left manifold end can be pulled off. Right side manifold end can stay on head IIRC. Do replace both boots. Watch out for dirt falling into head. shop vac? You will need new intake to heat riser gaskets, and at least one DP manifold to head gasket.
It may be about the same work as pulling the motor, as getting to the boots is much easier with the engine out.
Do the oil cooler seals and main seal need replacing as well? fuel line? Clutch? Top tranny oil? axle boots?
There is a similar debate about pulling the motor to replace the generator. _________________ The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/ |
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velvetgreen Samba Member
Joined: August 17, 2004 Posts: 2744 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:34 am Post subject: |
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Believe it or not all that needs replacing is that one boot. The boots are brand new but unknown to me one of the boots had a vertical crack in the seam , letting the air and and making the engine run like crap. From the sounds of it it is easier to drop the engine than dismantling everything just to replace a simple boot. Somebody should really step up and make a boot that doesn't require dropping the engine to install |
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OB Bus Samba Member
Joined: February 09, 2003 Posts: 2535 Location: Ocean Beach in Beautiful BLUE California
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 10:56 am Post subject: |
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velvetgreen wrote: |
Believe it or not all that needs replacing is that one boot. The boots are brand new but unknown to me one of the boots had a vertical crack in the seam , letting the air and and making the engine run like crap. From the sounds of it it is easier to drop the engine than dismantling everything just to replace a simple boot. Somebody should really step up and make a boot that doesn't require dropping the engine to install |
I would love it if "someone" would make better boots. Each time I look at the latest reviews on TS and get the **best** ones. So far all of the boots on my engine started cracking after 2-3 years. _________________ Larry in OB
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
69 Westfalia and 2002 Eurovan Camper. |
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Stanagon Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2003 Posts: 4186 Location: Boston, MA
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campingbox Samba Member
Joined: November 14, 2000 Posts: 10196 Location: Petaluma, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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Stanagon wrote: |
Just downgrade to single port heads, no f'in boots to worry about. |
Downgrade? |
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Stanagon Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2003 Posts: 4186 Location: Boston, MA
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Campy Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005 Posts: 4933 Location: Chico, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 8:36 pm Post subject: |
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Some 16 years ago I was sold a pair of black manifold boots, which lasted only a few months before cracks appeared. I went back to the ruddy-colored ones and never had a problem with them.
The 1958 walk-thru camper that I bought for $150 (that is not a misprint) some 20 years ago came with two engines. One of them, an "H" single port engine, went into my 1963 camper after I finished restoring it 12 years ago. All I did to it was convert it to a dog house cooler, install an alternator, and install new pushrod tubes and gaskets. That sucker is still in my 1963 camper. A bonus is that the single port engine does not have the "pause" that dual port engines have when taking off in first and second gears. _________________ Don't worry; be happy. (Baba) |
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