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Sylvian
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Niceville florida
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 Posted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 1:49 pm Post subject: Trans and gas tank |
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| I just pulled my engine for carb work and am deciding to lower the rear of my bus. I heard that going with a 68 bug transaxle with the notched spring plates is a way to go or a type 3 trans would work to. Was wondering if this set up is more geared for highway. Would this be called the straight axle or irs. Not sure of the name set up I need. Would I be able to use the rear brakes that I have already which is original 67 bus brakes. Don't want to break the bank on this one. Do they sell the complete transaxle all in one or am I gonna have to buy the transmission from one place and axle and tubes from somewhere else. Also my fuel tank needs to be cleaned out. It has trash in it. Do they make aftermarket fuel tanks or should I try to restore the original. Any suggestions would be great. |
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Z
Samba Member
Joined: June 15, 2003
Posts: 2517
Location: galveston, tx
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Sylvian
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 115
Location: Niceville florida
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 5:44 am Post subject: |
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Tmiller3
Samba Member
Joined: June 12, 2014
Posts: 142
Location: Lone Tree
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 6:53 am Post subject: |
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When it got my bus out of storage, it had about 5 gal. of "gas" in the tank after 20 years. Basically varnish. I bought a reproduction tank initially that I thought would fit, but there was a little metal brace at the junction between the tank and the filler tube which didn't allow the repro to fit.
I found a guy in town who did restore gas tanks, but was advertised as "radiator repair". Cost a bit of money, but worth it in the long haul. Nothing fits quite like the original. |
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Clara 
Samba Member
Joined: June 14, 2003
Posts: 12399
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:45 am Post subject: |
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for the gas tank, if it has rust in it, the thing is remove the tank, remove the sender and outlet, and dump a chain in the tank. shake it shake shake it, and dump it out
repeat.
repeat
repeat
repeat until crust stops coming out.
install with new screen.
Use all new fuel line. I prefer the German braided line with the metric size.
If a bus has been sitting a long time it generally needs this.
for newly on the road buses with dirty tanks, I use two filters, in line, in the engine compartment where they can be checked easily. I change as needed. Some people dislike filters in the engine compartment, but changing them under the bus is a pain, gets gasoline on you, and it is hard to see if they are dirty under there. If you dislike filters in the engine compartment, move it after the filter stays clean for a reasonable amount of time. This motor was going in a bus that sat for years, so got the dual filters
I've also used the magnet down the filler neck concept, sewn into a bag on a wire clothes hanger. It pulls rust out of a gas tank. It does not pull non ferrous dirt out of a gas tank. I check it at each time I get gas.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?...t_dir=DESC
Used a new WW tank recently. it fit fine. The previous tank in that bus had been cleaned at a radiator shop and they cut a hole in one corner and then brazed it up. The brazing came loose and the tank started dripping gas which is a fire hazard so the tank got replaced.
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The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/ |
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Fredrok
Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2014
Posts: 227
Location: Under the evergreens. CO
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 7:45 am Post subject: |
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I recently discovered while my trans was out that I had rust in the carb bowl coming from my original, rusty tank (glad I decided to look). I replaced mine with a repro from WW. It fit just fine and for $150, I felt was worth it over jacking around with cleaning and sealing the original.
The only thing I could see different was there isn't any internal baffling like the original but it hasn't caused a problem yet. |
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Campy
Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2005
Posts: 4933
Location: Chico, CA
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| Posted: Sun Apr 05, 2015 6:41 pm Post subject: |
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There should be an explanation somewhere on this site but go to the pool supply section of a store like home Depot and buy a gallon of muriatic acid, mix some of it with water, and swish it around your fuel tank (after plugging up the openings. Make sure that you put some nuts and bolts in the tank, too. Drain it, rinse it out with water, then go through the cleaning process again. If your fuel tank is in good shape, it is better to use it than an aftermarket tank.
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Don't worry; be happy. (Baba) |
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