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oscarsnapkin
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Joined: October 22, 2013
Posts: 558
Location: Bucks County, PA
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 Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 2:17 pm Post subject: Suggestions for removing exhaust manifold from head? |
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'77 2.0L
I rigged up my compressor to my tailpipe to find the source of an exhaust leak, and of course it is at the connection between the head and the manifold. The heads are new and I had no trouble getting the nuts off, although one of the studs came off as well (not broken, just unscrewed). I just can't seem to work the manifold loose from the head. I know others have had to do this so I'm looking for any suggestions on how to pry/pull/force the manifold off without damaging anything else on the engine. I was thinking of trying to use a ratcheting strap around the manifold, but there's nothing else to attach it to. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing
"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind." |
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PITApan
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Joined: November 09, 2014
Posts: 1058
Location: Northern Colorado
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:00 pm Post subject: Re: Suggestions for removing exhaust manifold from head? |
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| oscarsnapkin wrote: |
'77 2.0L
I rigged up my compressor to my tailpipe to find the source of an exhaust leak, and of course it is at the connection between the head and the manifold. The heads are new and I had no trouble getting the nuts off, although one of the studs came off as well (not broken, just unscrewed). I just can't seem to work the manifold loose from the head. I know others have had to do this so I'm looking for any suggestions on how to pry/pull/force the manifold off without damaging anything else on the engine. I was thinking of trying to use a ratcheting strap around the manifold, but there's nothing else to attach it to. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
Engine installed or on the bench?
If it's on a motorcycle jack, put a board under the jack and straps from that to the heat Ex. Then raise the jack. If installed, back over the board or brace it under the case with blocks and use the strap.
Mine are tight but come off (so far) with a fore/aft rocking motion. |
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timvw7476
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Joined: June 03, 2013
Posts: 2200
Location: seattle
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:12 pm Post subject: Suggestions for removing exhaust manifold from head? |
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Lots of aerosol lubricant spray & gloves to grip & rock the exchanger loose.
It can be a struggle.
Sometimes it takes more than one session. |
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my59
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Joined: August 13, 2003
Posts: 3791
Location: connecting the dots
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 3:41 pm Post subject: Re: Suggestions for removing exhaust manifold from head? |
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| timvw7476 wrote: |
Lots of aerosol lubricant spray & gloves to grip & rock the exchanger loose.
It can be a struggle.
Sometimes it takes more than one session. |
This plus some scrap wood and a normal sized hammer (specifically not a BFH) to tap things around can help. Don't be afraid of pushing back up either as it loosens.
You can also try double Nutting the studs to see if the others come out as easy as the one you have.
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SGKent 
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Joined: October 30, 2007
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Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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| Posted: Wed Apr 22, 2015 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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All 4 nuts and washers pulled?
After burner tube removed?
Tin under it removed?
You should be able to grab it near the outlet flange for leverage and rock it a little as you pull it off. Put a piece of pipe in it if you need more leverage.
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Tcash
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Location: San Jose, California, USA
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oscarsnapkin
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Joined: October 22, 2013
Posts: 558
Location: Bucks County, PA
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 2:12 am Post subject: |
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| SGKent wrote: |
All 4 nuts and washers pulled?
After burner tube removed?
Tin under it removed?
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Engine is installed, tin removed, all nuts/washers removed, afterburner (I'm assuming that's the u-pipe) is still installed to the heater box, but obviously not to the manifold.
I followed all that pretty well when I installed it, but I did have to force the manifold on. I'm assuming that forcing it over the studs twisted it enough to cause a poor seal. Once I get it off I'll have to drill the stud holes a little bit to make it slide on easier. I have an old Type 4 head on the shelf that I can use to bench test the fit. I guess I'll be spending this weekend laying on my back trying to pull this damn thing off. Thanks.
- One of the webpages or threads that I read awhile back on prepping the manifolds said something along the lines of, do it right the first time, or you will certainly do it right the second time. How true.
_________________
- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing
"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind." |
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aerosurfer
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Joined: March 25, 2012
Posts: 1602
Location: Indianapolis, IN
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:00 am Post subject: |
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[quote="oscarsnapkin"]
| SGKent wrote: |
I followed all that pretty well when I installed it, but I did have to force the manifold on. I'm assuming that forcing it over the studs twisted it enough to cause a poor seal. Once I get it off I'll have to drill the stud holes a little bit to make it slide on easier. I have an old Type 4 head on the shelf that I can use to bench test the fit. I guess I'll be spending this weekend laying on my back trying to pull this damn thing off. Thanks.
- One of the webpages or threads that I read awhile back on prepping the manifolds said something along the lines of, do it right the first time, or you will certainly do it right the second time. How true. |
Mine came off of original heads and went onto new AMCs, the manifolds didn't want to slide on either. I uses a scissor jack between the pipes and MAPP gas on the metal. I had my holes expanded as well. Didn't have to worry about beating up the threads on the studs and followed the mating surface procedures to get a good seal.
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Wildthings
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 8:51 am Post subject: |
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I doubt that you twisted the F pipe forcing it on as something else would likely have gotten messed up first. You need to glue the copper rings in place with some silicon so they don't fall down and get cocked while you fight the pipes on. You also want to lightly chamfer the outer edge of the flange where it fits against the gasket so it doesn't cut into the head as you slide the F pipe into place.
Don't do much enlarging of the holes for the studs either. The tight holes are what help to properly align the pipes with the gaskets. Do check to see that the wall thickness of the flanges is normal, almost 1/8 of an inch, if they are too thin it can be hard to get a good seal. |
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busdaddy
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Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51125
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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| Posted: Sat Apr 25, 2015 9:14 am Post subject: |
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I doubt you bent it by forcing it on, but years of heating and cooling or running with leaks can warp them. As already mentioned a jack between the pipes sometimes helps, I've also had to put some in a vise and twist the ends with a big pipe wrench or insert a bar down the port and bend it sideways. After it slides onto the studs and meets up with the seal bores like butter I file the ends of the pipes so they are perfectly flat and parralell with each other, a big belt sander does that job in minutes but patient hand filing also works. There's no need to enlarge any holes if it's straightened properly first.
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oscarsnapkin
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Joined: October 22, 2013
Posts: 558
Location: Bucks County, PA
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| Posted: Tue Apr 28, 2015 12:51 am Post subject: |
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Took almost 2 hours but I finally got it out. I used a pair of Vise-Grips with a wide oval opening (not even sure what they're for) to get a better grip on the manifold. I even used a pry bar GENTLY against the head to help persuade it off. Once off, I used a floor jack to spread the manifold open a tad, using an old cylinder head to check fit. I got it so it slides on and off like butter. Filed the ends down nice and flat and now it is leak free. Of course, now I have an exhaust leak from the joint between the manifold and the u-pipe. The triangular gasket that I bought from Bus Depot (Reinz) appears to be much thinner than the one that I took off. Anyone know where to get the 'good' gaskets? Also, was that asbestos in the insulation on the manifold? When I was pulling it off I gave it a tap with a hammer and fibers started falling out everywhere. I would have rather had an exhaust leak than mesothelioma. All in all, wasn't as bad as I expected. Thanks for the advice.
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- 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing
"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind." |
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