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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:32 am Post subject: |
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So, I haven't washed it yet, but instead decided to move it further away from the danger of children's bikes and garden equipment, which involved more cleaning of the garage. I did take both wheels off the front to take a look at what was under there. I think there is probably 10 pounds of grease slopped all over the underside of the fenders & suspension parts. I was also amazed at how much room there was under there and how I could see right through to the other side!
It looks like the tire has been rubbing on the shiny parts? I am seeing more and more red-paint too, so it appears that the entire front of the car was red at some point..
The bottom of both headlight cavities is all rusted out
I see that the fuel-tap is not hooked-up to the reserve-lever, probably because the previous owner installed a gauge in the dash.. I also was wondering what that fuzzy looking connection to the steering-gear is - is that a damper of some kind to take out vibration from reaching up the steering column?
I didn't get a picture of it, but there is some severe looseness in the steering. I could HEAR where it was coming from, due to the grease making popping noises of getting squished around between two pieces of metal. I'll get a pic.
Also, is there a special tool for taking off the hubcaps? I see the two small holes that it would appear a tool would fit into?
Thanks!
David |
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Bret2094 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2012 Posts: 665 Location: Linden, Texas or College Station Texas
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 10:57 am Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote: |
Also, is there a special tool for taking off the hubcaps? I see the two small holes that it would appear a tool would fit into?
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David, the tool you are asking about does exist, and that is what those holes are for. It's a simple tool that is made of thick gauge wire similar to metal coat hangers. You can order a hubcap tool from pretty much any vw supply place but I found it just as easy to bend up an old coat hanger and use that.
For cleaning up all of that grease, you can take a chisel and scrape a majority of it off that way, and then soak it in some gunk and then hit it with a pressure washer. I found it alot easier to do that with the beam out of the car, but it's not mandatory. You'll soon find that the transmission and engine are in similar states
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dmcglynn wrote: |
I also was wondering what that fuzzy looking connection to the steering-gear is - is that a damper of some kind to take out vibration from reaching up the steering column?
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That is a steering wheel coupler. Before you start driving around much, I would suggest you replace it here is what it looks like,
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=111415417
Avoid buying red urethane couplers. buy a rubber one for better longevity. The same goes for transmission mounts. Buy the stock type. The red urethane can break, and when they do, it can be a nightmare
Bret _________________ 1959 baja beetle ragtop( going back to Full body)
1959 beetle
1960 Beetle frame Custom buggy
1962 Karmann Ghia
1967 beetle( august 66, first car)
1967 beetle (parts car)
1977 Westfalia Camper
1972 Plymouth Duster
Just another 22 year old jackass who caught the bug, and lives by the motto " NO fatchicks allowed" , I've got too many cars as is (buses N/A) |
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lowdown55 Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2011 Posts: 117
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 11:56 am Post subject: |
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grease is good,its there for a reason…but at this point of going through everything you will want to clear it out to inspect everything,,,everything looks about rite (rusted) for the 55 |
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lowdown55 Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2011 Posts: 117
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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pull out your gas tank and you can get to all these components rather easy,clean everything with brake cleaner or degreaser so you can see whats what…..i think about a inch of play in the steering wheel is about normal |
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vwsonmybrain Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2007 Posts: 702 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 12:58 pm Post subject: |
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Given the large size of all your tires (quite a bit larger than stock) it's not a surprise that the tires were rubbing a bit on the beam. |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 1:04 pm Post subject: |
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vwsonmybrain wrote: |
Given the large size of all your tires (quite a bit larger than stock) it's not a surprise that the tires were rubbing a bit on the beam. |
I haven't looked into new tires yet - what size is stock?
I didn't realize that my tires were larger than normal until you mentioned that! |
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Bret2094 Samba Member
Joined: March 22, 2012 Posts: 665 Location: Linden, Texas or College Station Texas
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Posted: Fri Apr 17, 2015 1:14 pm Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote: |
what size is stock?
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the stock tire size was 5.60-15 bias ply but the rough equvalent is 155R15. Alot of folks run 165/80/R15 Radials as they are close as well. Personally I think using radials are the way to go, unless you want white walls. I first ran bias plys on my 67 and it was squirreley till I put radials on it
Bret _________________ 1959 baja beetle ragtop( going back to Full body)
1959 beetle
1960 Beetle frame Custom buggy
1962 Karmann Ghia
1967 beetle( august 66, first car)
1967 beetle (parts car)
1977 Westfalia Camper
1972 Plymouth Duster
Just another 22 year old jackass who caught the bug, and lives by the motto " NO fatchicks allowed" , I've got too many cars as is (buses N/A) |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 4:33 pm Post subject: |
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Bret2094 wrote: |
the stock tire size was 5.60-15 bias ply but the rough equvalent is 155R15. Alot of folks run 165/80/R15 Radials as they are close as well. Personally I think using radials are the way to go, unless you want white walls. I first ran bias plys on my 67 and it was squirreley till I put radials on it
Bret |
I just looked, and my rears are 7.60x15, and the fronts are 7.10x15. So the fronts are 1.5" wider & taller and the rears are 2? I suppose I shouldn't be surprised that they rubbed, you're right.
Am I to assume the previous owner adjusted the ride height to accommodate the larger tires? I need to read up on here about how people adjust heights.
I'm really just looking to get something on the car that I can drive around for a year or two. Not looking for fancy, or even long-lasting - just something that isn't cracked and unsafe like the ones I have!
Thanks,
David |
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vwsonmybrain Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2007 Posts: 702 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote: |
Am I to assume the previous owner adjusted the ride height to accommodate the larger tires? I need to read up on here about how people adjust heights.
I'm really just looking to get something on the car that I can drive around for a year or two. Not looking for fancy, or even long-lasting - just something that isn't cracked and unsafe like the ones I have!
Thanks,
David |
No, it doesn't look like the ride height has been adjusted...he just stuffed some large tires under there. The tires I bought for my 57 this last time were the Classic All Season 165/80-15 Tires.
I've been happy with them so far and they can be found on ebay at a decent price with shipping included. The size is about as close as you'll get to stock with out shelling out more money for the 155 size. |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 8:50 am Post subject: |
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I did see those on tirerack.com, and was going between those and the Nexen SB802, as I could save the $50 or so shipping if I buy them at the local Walmart. I have heard similar reviews about the Nexens. |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:00 am Post subject: |
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I started in on taking out the old brakes, and saw just how nasty my pedal cluster was, so I decided to take that out first. I couldn't believe how much "crap" there was all around that cluster. If I didn't look in the repair-manual, I wouldn't have even guessed that there was a fourth bolt holding it to the floor. I literally had to excavate all the cake-y rusty powder that was previously my floorpan and vacuum it up with the shop-vac. I should have taken a picture. I did snap a photo of what was hiding behind the rubber-mat & carpet:
I saw in the manual that I need to disconnect the clutch cable at the rear before sliding the pedal-cluster out of the tunnel, so I looked under the rear and discovered that someone had made me convenient access-hole in the rear of the car:
How Thoughtful of them. I'm not sure if it was for easy clutch-cable adjustment, or that engine-bolt, but they certainly gave themselves plenty of room. And given the little food-nests I'm finding, it's wasn't only convenient for humans!
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vwsonmybrain Samba Member
Joined: March 21, 2007 Posts: 702 Location: Oregon
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Posted: Fri Apr 24, 2015 9:15 am Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote: |
I did see those on tirerack.com, and was going between those and the Nexen SB802, as I could save the $50 or so shipping if I buy them at the local Walmart. I have heard similar reviews about the Nexens. |
I think I've ran Nexens before, as well. I think either choice would be good. For me it came down to the prices I found at the time and I wanted a little more wintery condition tread. That and I think the tread width of the Classic tire is a little narrower and closer to the original 155 tires. You can find them with free shipping, too.
As for your rust issues, I'd say considering your location and the salty winter roads, what you have is pretty minor. Overall, it looks like a pretty solid car. |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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So after a long idle period due to some family health issues and work emergencies, I finally had another chance to work on the car. I got the entire thing up on jack-stands, removed all the brake lines & hoses, and got all the brake components off the backing-plates, with the exception of the wheel-cylinders. I only took one of them off. It took quite a lot of PB blaster & gentle pounding from behind. It seems to be a the correct wheel-cylinder for the car, as they are all 2-bolt cylinders.
The issue I've got now is that the only one that I did take off is frozen. Since they're $100 a piece to buy new I am thinking of a rebuild attempt. My neighbor has a hone, and I see that the rebuild kit is all of $3 or so on rockauto.com. This seemed like a good idea anyway, until I tried to remove the bleeder valve, and with very little torque, it snapped right off.
So, my question to the VW public of thesamba - What is the recommended recourse for broken bleeder-screws? Easy-out? Drill it out?
Also found it funny that the brake hoses in the rear seem to be from Feb 1977? Is that what the yellow ring on the hose means? They are in fantastic shape if that is truly how old they are.
Also wondering what the holes are for in the backing-plate mounting bolts that I took off and cleaned up.. All 3 have a hole that goes clear through them:
Both boots on the axles need to be replaced too, as they have gaping holes in them. Shopping list is getting longer! It was a fun day though. |
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56Cabrio Samba Member
Joined: May 22, 2008 Posts: 1899 Location: San Fernando Valley, CA
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Posted: Sat May 23, 2015 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote: |
Also wondering what the holes are for in the backing-plate mounting bolts that I took off and cleaned up.. All 3 have a hole that goes clear through them:
Both boots on the axles need to be replaced too, as they have gaping holes in them. Shopping list is getting longer! It was a fun day though. |
The holes in the bolts are for a safety wire.
(pic from the gallery) |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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My wife and I finally washed the car yesterday - and had to take some wet-pics since they were request a long time ago, and I think that's the only way that this paint-job is going to look nice
It almost looks like a few different shades of green were brushed on?
Before:
(excuse the garage mess.. that's also a running theme)
After:
Shiny-ness seems to bring out the multitude of different shades of green:
Closeup of the paint - Those aren't shadows - it's actually dark-green around the windshield there, dark in the drip-channel, and lighter elsewhere. Most of the rubber on the car got paint too.
I also started cleaning up my pedal-cluster. I didn't realize just how corroded it was until i took the wire-brush to it and got all the grease/powdered-corrosion/crap off it. Is this common? I don't see it having any effect on the usability of the pedals, but surprising nonetheless.
I got all my orders of brake components in, so I'm starting in on cleaning the backing-plates up.. I have access to a sandblasting cabinet at work, so I got to play with that for an hour or so, and was very happy with the result. Byron, if you think the wire-wheel is fun, you've got to try one of these things out!
(Somehow this one got rotated upside down)
As I'm new at all this, I did a quick search for paint-recommendations and found that high-temp black gloss is a common choice, so I plan on going that route with them after I make an attempt at rounding out the dents a bit. This one doesn't look too bad but the other front backing-plate looks like someone tried to make a stop-sign out of it.
Thanks for looking!
Dave |
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nlorntson Crazy VW Lady
Joined: March 13, 2004 Posts: 3783 Location: Twin Cities, MN
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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Eastwood chassis black satin paint is a good match for original chassis parts. Gloss would not look original if you are looking to go that route. |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jun 02, 2015 7:58 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks nlorntson! - that was what the other thread had mentioned, I forgot the exact name. |
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Gwdghiaguy Samba Member
Joined: December 06, 2013 Posts: 340 Location: Greenwood, SC
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Posted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 3:29 am Post subject: |
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dmcglynn wrote:
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I got all my orders of brake components in, so I'm starting in on cleaning the backing-plates up.. I have access to a sandblasting cabinet at work, so I got to play with that for an hour or so, and was very happy with the result. Byron, if you think the wire-wheel is fun, you've got to try one of these things out! |
Send me yours and I'll get right on it! Really enjoying watching your progress.
Byron _________________ 1957 Oval Window
1963 Alabama Camper Bus
1971 Ghia
1971 Baywindow Bus
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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dmcglynn Samba Member
Joined: October 21, 2014 Posts: 39 Location: Michigan
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Posted: Thu Jun 04, 2015 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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I took the passenger front backing-plate off the car today, and it's pretty bent - I forgot to get a picture. I see some for sale on the classifieds, so I may end up having to pick one up..
I also took apart the pedal-cluster, and didn't realize quite how bad the corrosion was. I stopped cleaning it up because it seemed like I may be doing more damage to it as I cleaned it. It almost seems like if I scrape any part of it, chunks of it will come off.
Also, my accelerator pedal had a bit of wobble to it, seemingly due to the pivot ear-things (making this up as I go along) being bent? I assume this is a casting, so I'm afraid it would break if I attempted to bend it, so I'm not quite sure what to do, maybe put a couple washers in there to straighten it up..?
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