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chriswilhelmart Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2011 Posts: 43 Location: The Coast, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:27 am Post subject: is my clutch still good?? |
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Hey guys! Im new here and i have a few questions after taking my engine out today to fix several problems in my 68 standard bug. first of all, the intake is icing up sometimes when its wet and damp out here on the Oregon Coast. So i figured my heat riser may be clogged with carbon. Second, my clutch has begun to slip when going up hills at highway speeds. the motor will start to reeeev up but i dont have any power.. Well, i THINK i found my answer, because this clutch seems to be loosing lots of material on one side. But what you do you guys think? Here are a few pictures.
I drove this bug to the beach today, and when i got home, after it had sputtered home, (it does that after its warmed up..) I decided "Hey, maybe ill try to take the motor apart today." and an hour and a half later, i had figured out how to take the motor out WITHOUT A ENGINE HOIST! wow, what a rush!
Anyway, do you guys think this thing just needed to be adjusted or is it worth replacing "while im there"?
Also, there is a small port that has been blocked off (1/4" or so) that is at the top of the intake where the carb sits (single port engine) that is blocked off on my motor. Ill have pics of that tomorrow, but im wondering if anyone knows what im talking about and where it might go if i were to put a hose back on it, as it looks like it should have a hose on it..
As i was pulling the electrical apart from my coil, a few connections SNAPPED apart and broke from lots of corrosion, so ill be replacing that as well. mainly on the large gauge red wire that goes on top of the generator. is there anyway that my issue with the car running like crap once its warmed up, have anything to do with corroded electrical?
Thanks for any and all help my Samba friends![/img] |
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Joe Bence Samba Member
Joined: March 14, 2004 Posts: 501 Location: San Diego, CA
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:29 am Post subject: |
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New clutch time.............. |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:16 am Post subject: |
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Hard to tell. Replace the disc if 7mm wrench is easy to slide on. Electrical fault would be random, not wait till warmed up.
How does pressure plate look? _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Air-Cooled Head Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2002 Posts: 4070 Location: Chicago Suburbs
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:54 am Post subject: |
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Agree w/ both of the above.
Do the 17mm wrench trick.
If you think you're having clutch problems now, put it back it back in.
All doubt will be removed. _________________ Everything known to man has been written.
Readers are Leaders! |
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scottmc Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2014 Posts: 197 Location: patchogue ny
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 8:14 am Post subject: |
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No way is that disc good. Looks like down to the rivets on the worn side. Both sides should wear evenly. Slide the disc onto the input shift and make sure it slides freely. Also see the dark line in the middle? You will have a matching mark on the other surface. |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:19 am Post subject: |
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Air-Cooled Head wrote: |
Do the 17mm wrench trick.
. |
_________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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kamesama980 Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2014 Posts: 323 Location: Columbus, IN
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:33 am Post subject: |
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That clutch is TOAST (and probably whatever the thin side was touching as well).
Question to everyone: Is the VW clutch asymmetrical in that one side has to face the engine and the other faces the trans? sure looks like it and this one was on backwards but the splined part sticks out so far I can't believe it'd fit at all.
Yes, poor electrical connections can cause any and all sorts of problems, even in a carb/points engine. _________________ -Russell
"You don't get to blame me for how I fix what you break"
1970 VW Beetle
1994 Pontiac Firebird
2001 BMW R1200C
2003 Subaru Baja |
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gt1953 Samba Member
Joined: May 08, 2002 Posts: 13842 Location: White Mountains Arizona
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:36 am Post subject: |
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If it were mine I would consider having the flywheel resurfaced. How is the engine to body seal in the car? How are the oil cooler seals? Just to name a few items to consider while in this state of repair. _________________ Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.
72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold}) |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 9:40 am Post subject: |
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kamesama980 wrote: |
Question to everyone: Is the VW clutch asymmetrical in that one side has to face the engine and the other faces the trans? sure looks like it and this one was on backwards but the splined part sticks out so far I can't believe it'd fit at all. |
Yes, other way one will not get the PP installed. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Air-Cooled Head Samba Member
Joined: October 15, 2002 Posts: 4070 Location: Chicago Suburbs
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 10:54 am Post subject: |
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Eric&Barb wrote: |
Air-Cooled Head wrote: |
Do the 17mm wrench trick.
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DUH! Typo. _________________ Everything known to man has been written.
Readers are Leaders! |
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chriswilhelmart Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2011 Posts: 43 Location: The Coast, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:24 am Post subject: |
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thanks for the quick responses guys! What is the 17mm wrench trick exactly? the engine to body seal is shot, i should definitely get that replaced.
Question:
Where should i go to buy a rear main seal, and the engine to body seals, AND some GOOD door and sunroof seals (its a sun bug). Can i get the rear main and others from Napa or another parts store, or do i need to use better stuff? I dont want ANY leaks at the end of this. plus, do you guys think i should tear the heads apart and go all out? i really dont want to if its not recommended, but this thing is leaking like CRAZY from the rear main, and im sure other places too but im not sure where yet.
Thanks for the help!
Oh and the clutch will be getting replaced too, is that a Napa purchase as well? |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:29 am Post subject: |
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Think you mean the Flywheel seal, as it is on the front of the engine. Most any FLAPS should have that.
As for the rest would try Wolfsburg West. Though they have the FW seal also. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 11:33 am Post subject: |
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As for the heads and tearing into the engine, without any history or knowledge of how it is running... If it is running well, do a tune up and start saving for an engine rebuild. Plus it does not hurt to pickup a core engine to rebuild well before you have any problems with what you have now. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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chriswilhelmart Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2011 Posts: 43 Location: The Coast, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Im not sure what you guys mean by the 17mm trick?
I went out this morning and got a few more pics of the motor after tearing it down a bit more.
I have been told that the tin gasket underneath the generator pillar can leak oil, because sometimes its put on upside down. I dont THINK its leaking there, but i cant be sure, can you guys tell me if that looks good or bad? its just how it looked when i took the generator off.
Its also leaking some really sludgy, almost honey feeling oil from what looks like the crank case underneath the fan shroud. you can see it in the next 2 pics. it looks like its either leaking from underneath the oil cooler, or possibly from the top of the head? what do you guys think?
and lastly for this post, there is a considerable groove on the mating surface of the flywheel that mates to the clutch. it seems that clutch WAS digging into the flywheel. so should i opt for the 75 dollar lighter "performance" flywheel so my crank can spin faster, or should i just use this one as is?
im on a budget, but i want it done right, so im willing to expand that budget if NEED be.
Thanks! |
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31268 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 1:06 pm Post subject: |
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chriswilhelmart wrote: |
What is the 17mm wrench trick exactly?? |
The 7mm wrench trick. If the clutch disc is under 7mm, then for replacement. Unless the disc looks like yours, or there was slippage, then doesn't matter how thick it was. Replace pressure plate, disc, have flywheel machined or replaced, oil seal and transmission seal if necessary. And the throwout bearing for good measure. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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Unless you are going to drag race it, stay with stock FW.
Gen deflector tin should be turned 180 around so louver openings are facing right side of the engine. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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Keep stripping the engine down to long block. Clean, clean and clean it some more. Retorque engine case fasteners and then the heads just like you would when assembling it. Install new seals for oil cooler and inspect for any cracks. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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scottmc Samba Member
Joined: January 10, 2014 Posts: 197 Location: patchogue ny
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 4:57 pm Post subject: |
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If the disc does not slide easily on the transfer input shaft,it will wipe out the new disc. The disc needs to float between the flywheel and pressure plate when clutch is pressed or else it will drag and wear on one side. Don't put new one in without checking. |
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Eric&Barb Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004 Posts: 24670 Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Had one where the forward hub of the clutch disc was too thick and hit the inner diameter of the early throw out bearing. _________________ In Stereo, Where Available! |
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kamesama980 Samba Member
Joined: June 22, 2014 Posts: 323 Location: Columbus, IN
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Posted: Fri Jun 05, 2015 7:45 pm Post subject: |
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I'd be looking at a new pressure place and flywheel too. It doesn't have hot-spots: almost half the face is messed up. sometimes it can be ground out (by a machine shop) but given what happened I get they're good and deep.
Then figure out WHY it happened. _________________ -Russell
"You don't get to blame me for how I fix what you break"
1970 VW Beetle
1994 Pontiac Firebird
2001 BMW R1200C
2003 Subaru Baja |
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