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Oil filter pump install
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windfish
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 11:40 am    Post subject: Oil filter pump install Reply with quote

So I did this a little while back but never got around to posting it here, Mogar's post (here) reminded me of it.
I searched theSamba before doing mine and found some chatter on the various brands etc but nothing on the (admittedly fairly easy) install.

I know there's some talk about whether or not the bolt-on oil pump filters actually do a perfect job filtering the oil, but I gotta believe it's significantly better than running no filter at all (other than the strainer, which doesn't really count).
VW later used this filter design with the mexi engines, so /shrug.

If you're running a big engine and/or running at very high RPMs this may not be for you.
If you're running a mostly stock engine and want a little more protection for it this may be worth considering.

Anyways.
There's a few different brands that make these, I settled on CB Performance's model as noone seems to have anything bad to say about 'em.
Cusser has been running his for a long while.

There's two different versions, one for '70 and below (CB link) and one for '71+ (CB link)
The difference is the cam, the later models used dished gears and the earlier had flat. Aftermarket cams sometimes (mostly?) use the earlier style flat gears and so will need to use the '70 below model (even on a '71+ engine).
Both the CB models run the stock-sized 26mm gears; a note that the OEM mexi engine version you can buy (ex) runs 30mm gears, watch your oil pressure on stock-sized engines.

Mufflers can be an issue here, many of the aftermarket mufflers intrude on the space the filter needs to go and some of the stock-ish replacements have the heat riser on the left side (more on this below).

I see no reason this can't be done engine-in-car.
I ran into an issue and pulled it, but if your muffler works you should be fine.

Tools required include
- Screwdriver for the breast plate and pulley tin screws
- Wrenches for the front pulley and oil pump nuts.
- Low profile front pulley puller, or the few bits to make one
- Oil pump removal tool. There are various other tools that can accomplish this, but if you're not sure just pick one up. They're cheap, purpose made, and will make this a bunch easier.
- Hex tool if using the CB Performance oil pump screws
- Potentially some sort of grinder / cutting tool

Onwards!
First the breast plate tin comes off, then the pulley bolt.

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This is my cobbled together pulley puller. You may or may not need one, but mine wouldn't have come out without one.

After the pulley is off the pulley tin can come off and you'll have a good view of the oil pump cover.

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Did I mention you should drain the oil? 'cause you probably should.

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With the front cover off you can see the gears, they just pull out.

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With the gears out the pump puller can be slotted into the passages and the pump pulled free.

This next bit is basic, but hey.
The CB Performance filter cover is thicker than the original pump cover so it comes with it's own screws. This means the studs need to come out.

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Two nuts tightened against each other allow you to (hopefully) easily remove the studs.

With that done you can push the new oil pump in and install the gears. I put a thin coat of oil on the gears so they'd have something for the initial startup.

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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the arrows on the gears mean anything.

With the CB unit the threads for the filter need to be installed. I used the same double-nut method above. Tight fit with only a few threads on the top nut, but it worked.

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Used red loctite as hopefully that bit will never have to come out.

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And so yeah. Remember above when I said something about heat risers on the wrong side of some stock-ish mufflers? Guess what I had.

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The fun thing was that I looked up my 2 year old Dansk from WW on WW's website -- it showed the heat riser on the right, so I thought I was fine.
Apparently within the past two years Dansk changed their mind on which side they put the heat riser, but kept the same part number. I should have checked my actual muffler before I started, but derp.
I ended up buying that new Dansk with heat riser on the 'right' side.

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Fits much better that way.

A couple people mighta cringed when I said "grinder" in the tool list, here's why I needed one -

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That top ridge pushed the pulley tin into the pulley and made a horrendous noise when I cranked the engine. It needed to go.
I'd read something about this previously, but it looked like it was clear when I put it back together.
Nope.
Shaving off that ridge fixed the problem though, hasn't scraped since.

So that's it.

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Tucks up nicely.

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I'm currently running a Motorcraft FL-400S filter, it fits perfectly and it's the same filter as my '04 Ford which is handy.
's also cheap, readily available, and a relatively good filter
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great write up!! Thanks for posting it. Only thing would add to it is to loosen up the engine case nuts and bolts above and below the oil pump bore. Loosening will allow the case to not be clamped onto the oil pump body quite as firmly, and easier to get new one in.

Have modified those oil pumps so any type of muffler will not get in the way.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3...p;start=20

Lower pulley if too tight like that, should be carefully finger sanded to a hand push on and pull off fit.
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Danwvw
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a nice oil pump is it the Maxi Pump 2? 4 rivet cam? It's important to always check clearances at the coupling and at the oil pump body to the 3 bolt cams if you have that setup. Other wise you wind up with Iron shavings from the coupling and aluminum shavings if cam bolts hit the pump body. With luck though your filter will protect the engine from them. Some of the cheeper aftermarket Filter pumps will suffer coupling failure at the cam to gear drive shaft at some point in there life perhaps after about 5000 miles. I think yours may be fine and it is a good upgrade to a type 1 engine just make sure the engage is good.
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windfish
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb - Thanks!
And yep, I've seen the remote kits but then you're routing hoses around the hot muffler pipe and the filter is a bit more exposed than I'd prefer. Almost went that way, but decided to just cough up for a new muffler and keep it simple.

Will gently clean and check over the pulley later, it looks original and has the slots for a pulley puller so I was thinking that's just the way it was. Not tremendously tight, but enough I couldn't get it by hand.

Danwvw - Yep, the '71+ CB Performance Maxi 2 (1971 1600cc DP engine)
I compared it to the pump I took out and it looked identical.

Running great so far, it's been in ~ 6 months and a couple thousand miles.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windfish wrote:
Eric&Barb - Thanks!
And yep, I've seen the remote kits but then you're routing hoses around the hot muffler pipe and the filter is a bit more exposed than I'd prefer. Almost went that way, but decided to just cough up for a new muffler and keep it simple.


Yes, that is why we cut, angle down, and reweld the neck of the filter pump. No hoses required...
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's up with your oil pressure port mod?

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb - Ah, gotcha. 's on page 1 of the topic you linked; thought you were looking at the wheelwell mounted filter.
www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=385166&postorder=asc&start=10

Did you actually get it working? I found that post after I figured out my current muffler wasn't right, showed it to a couple local welding shops and none of them would touch it (and 's not something I'm comfortable trying myself).

Bashr52 - Oil pressure relocation kit thing, I've got a VDO oil pressure gauge and wanted to keep the idiot light as well. Probably would have been fine with a simple T, but I liked this method. I've got it bolted to the body, so it just free-floats when I have to drop the engine.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yours looks like the 4 rivet cam! What year is your engine? My 71 bus had a 4 rivet cam in it!
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Example of a 3 rivet cam viewed with the oil pump removed.
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4 rivet cam next to the early model 3 rivet cam. Bolts may also be used. Aftermarket cams are usually 3 bolt cams.
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windfish wrote:

Did you actually get it working? I found that post after I figured out my current muffler wasn't right, showed it to a couple local welding shops and none of them would touch it (and 's not something I'm comfortable trying myself).


Yes have several working. Not hard at all. Just got to find a welding shop that does AL welding regularly.

Get a "T" fitting for those senders, it is not hard to do and one less hose about.
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 12, 2015 6:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

windfish wrote:

Will gently clean and check over the pulley later, it looks original and has the slots for a pulley puller so I was thinking that's just the way it was. Not tremendously tight, but enough I couldn't get it by hand.


Sand the inside bore of the pulley like you would get if you spun it finger. Then try the pulley back on the crank. Careful not to get it stuck. Pull back off and you will easily see scratches from the crank at a 90 degree angle from the sanding marks. Sand marks from the crank till not visible, then sand around the inside again, try the pulley again and repeat till it just slides on.
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