Replacing clutch pedal - success!!!

iceracer

So I am weeks away from driving my 2 yr Syncro restoration project and noticed I have excessive play in the clutch pedal. Guess what? Worn out pedal lever. One and 1/2 inches play. Could see the problem with a flashlight and mirror but no way to get in there and remove it. A search told me you must pull the dash. WRONG!!!!!!!!!! I got it out in 1/2 hr.

Working from the floor area, I was able to remove the big spring and the BIG clip on the pedal rod. Then was able to slide the big pin over to the passenger side enough to drop the pedal out. Success. I think the glass of wine I consumed while doing this helped. My pedal is so worn the metal area the slave pin is in was about to break through. Massive play. 175000 miles on the od, I have to assume this van was driven in the city all the time for such wear. The other two vans I have with more miles have no play to 1/8 inch. This was really messing up the clutching as the clutch would grab right off the floor.

The manual and gowesty say you must remove the dash etc to do this. They are wrong. You can get it out the way I did. I ahve to assume I can get it in via another glass of wine. I have to say Gowesty sells a refurbished unit cheaper than the others selling used ones in the classifieds so I went with them for my replacement.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

stevey88 · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:14 pm Post subject:

I haven't done it but after removing my dash and the servo for rust repair ( rusted lower windshield frame ), I think the servo can be removed with the dash in place. If you remove the two brake lines/vacuum connection and the clutch line after removing the instrument cluster, then remove the two brackets that connect the top reinforce piece of the wind shield frame to the lower dash that has the security bolts. The four bolts for the servo can then be removed and the servo with the paddle assembly can then be pull out. The advantage for removing the whole thing is you can grease all the moving parts. The disadvantage is you have to bleed the brake and clutch after you are done.
Again, I have not done it this way but I think the opening at the top of the dash is large enough for the whole thing to come out. While removing the servo/paddle assembly, I found Automatic van servo assembly come out real easy but for manual gearbox, removing the pads for the paddle will give you more room to clear the lower part of the chassis.
Any comments ?
_________________
Steve

87 Westfalia full camper 4 speed

240Gordy · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 9:41 pm Post subject:

wow thanks for posting this, my clutch starts to grab right off the floor, I have to put it in reverse before I start the engine. I thought maybe bleeding the clutch line would do the trick but no, I suppose I have to check the pedal and see what's up there under the dash.

cheers.
_________________
Tencentlife said,
"So, now that you know what you're doing, go to town."
2010 GOLF TRENDLINE 2.5
1985 GL now with more! a 2.1L
H&R SPORT(RED) Springs FRONT , SLAM SPECIALTIES RE6 AIRBAGS REAR

chimivee · Posted: Tue Mar 23, 2010 10:56 pm Post subject:

This is very good to know! I pulled the dash to do the clutch pedal on my carat, but I had other business in there too. But I certainly don't wanna do that unnecessarily for the next time. So, how difficult was it? Seems like contorting while upside down, hanging halfway out of the van and working semi-blindly would... um suck.
_________________
-James
86 Syncro Westy, etc

iceracer · Posted: Wed Mar 24, 2010 7:54 am Post subject:

Yes there was a bit of contorting going on but the wine helped with that. Get a small mirror and flashlight and you will be able to see up there and if you have excessive play you will be able to see the pin move on the slave shaft before the shaft moves. Or if you can get your hand up there via the brake pedal side you can move the pedal and feel if there is slop on the slave pin.

I just got done bleeding my clutch and brakes and then realized the pedal was worn. The hole is so far gone on my pedal that there is about a 1/16in bit of metal left and boom no more clutch.

Removing the spring came first, then with two screwdrivers the clip and then I could push the big pin with a finger and then using a screwdriver on the brake pedal side I was able to pull the big pin out just enough to lift the pedal up out of the slave and then down and out.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

iceracer · Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 7:39 pm Post subject:

Got my gowesty replacement clutch pedal today and just got in from installing it. Greased things up good and was a pita to locate and get the slave pin in the hole but had success and a bit more contorting of my body and had it installed in 1/2 hr. The hardest part is then getting the large C clip back on the shaft. Had to use a visegrips on the clip and start it and then slide it on with a long screwdriver/prybar. Next came the spring and it is done. The trick in removing and installing is to hold the pedal down to the floor to get the spring and C clip off and on. DONE!
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

Raynor Shine · Samba Member Joined: November 07, 2005 Posts: 552

Iceracer- did you have to drop the steering column? Would that give additional room to work or just be more in the way?

iceracer · Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 5:22 pm Post subject:

Steering column is not the issue, would be more in the way in my opinion. This is a can do with a bit of contorting and patience. Better than pulling the dash. Not a bad job compared to installing the poptop on the roof of the van like I did today with 3 guys.
_________________
86 Syncro Wolfsburg edition
63 Beetle (The Iceracer)

dobryan · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:37 am Post subject:

So I just did this job at Blue North Westy's in Calgary on the start of my summer trip. I was lucky enough to get a rehab pedal that syncrodoka made up and had it with me for the trip on a premonition.

Here is what I took out, not too bad but bad enough that my catch point was almost at the floor.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

One thing I noted in doing this per the instructions. The shaft did not move with my finger, it was too tight, I had to use a long needle nose pliers to move it. In order to push it back I had to use the heavy ratchet handle end from a 3/4 drive as a 'hammer' and tap it back a gazzillion times.

But the most important thing I learned is that the roll pin at the brake pedal end of the shaft can hit a weld on the brake pedal if is at 3 (or 9) o'clock. That will not allow the shaft to fully go back and will not allow enough of the groove on the clutch pedal end to accept the circlip. I had to roate the roll pin to be straight down and then all was well. I hope this helps some in the same boat.

Samba rocks! Very Happy

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

Kombi///M3 · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 10:51 am Post subject:

Have to do this job on my syncro..my clutch pedal has a little
Play when depressed and makes the brake pedal to play a bit,
PO bought a couple brass washers stated that's the prob.
So... Can I place the two washers by not taking dash aswell?
Thanks for the heads up.

syncrodoka · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:00 am Post subject:

There are no brass washers in the pedal assembly. It is very common for the clevis pin and/or the clutch arm to be worn.
Some people use washers to clean up a little of the side to side slop of the clutch pedal in the fork but that isn't the real issue. I doubt that they can be installed with the cluster in place.

ClarksuperVan · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 11:21 am Post subject:

Good timing on this thread bump. I just did this job on Thursday. 40 mins to drop the old pedal out per the above instructions. So glad I did, look how close the clevis was to breaking through! The scary part is my clutch engaged and disengaged pretty well. The only real sign was some minor squeeking and about and inch of play in the pedal. Took about an hour to get the new pedal in mostly. But it took me quite a while to get that circlip into place. Man that's a tight fit up there. Clutch action is like butter now. Thanks to all those who posted above, this would have undoubtedly put a damper on our road trip next month when the clutch failed.

-Jeremy

Forthwithtx · Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2015 9:02 pm Post subject:

I have a donor van, so much of what I do is a dry run on the donor, then "for reals" on my driver. That being said, I was fortunate enough to have a good clevis and pedal between the two and had the whole operation between two vans done in about an hour. It really isn't the nightmare that some make it out to be with cutting access holes, etc. Definitely easier on the disassemble, though.

Syncromikey · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:02 am Post subject:

That's funny ... I just finished mine too. On Friday as a matter of fact. Here's what mine looked pre and post. I ended up pulling the rad and replacing the heater core + fan and the two masters.

_________________
Love my Westy ...

My build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=528954

dobryan · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:05 am Post subject:

Kombi///M3 · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 8:52 am Post subject:

My mistake.. It's not washers, it's the 2 brass bushings.
I took a look at it last night... How the heck did you guys
Managed to get under there?!!! I'm a small guy and it's tight!
I may have to do some Houdini contortion;)
Thanks

borninabus · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:22 pm Post subject:

dobryan · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 12:28 pm Post subject:

I did it on a gravel alley without removing anything. I an bruised and bloodied though. Shocked

I found that I could set a small LED hiking headlamp just behind the steering column pointing upward and it provided great light. I then lay on my side/back and put my face right up to the pedals to see up there. It is not easy or fun but you can do it. Very Happy

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

Kombi///M3 · Posted: Sun Jun 14, 2015 5:09 pm Post subject:

Kool.. Thanks boys.. I'll tackle the job soon.

Syncro Jael · Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:26 pm Post subject:

Reading this post and seeing the photos, I was getting a nervous feeling the play in my clutch pedal. It was not much, but I believe in preventative maintenance rather than fix it when it breaks. Shocked

GW has my refurbished pedal in route, so today I came home for my lunch break and thought I might tackle this project head on. Once I got the clip to spin around to where I could get a couple flat head screw drivers on the end it popped right off. The rest took about 2 minutes to get the pedal out.

So in 15 minutes this is what I had.

Not much wear at all, but the pin showed it along with the pedal. Very Happy

Now once the new parts get here it will be assembly time. I too am going the brass washers to shim up the fork. Wink

Oh, thanks again for the thread! Did I say I love TheSamba!!
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat)


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