Runs fine, but won't idle when stopped

[7T3Thing]

As noted, starts well, drives well, but stalls when slowing to stop.
Checked other threads, not a common cause.
Saw there is a dashpot on some Things for throttle return damping, but don't see one on this one. Two hoses are plugged off. That can't be correct.
Right now I'm thinking it might be the choke.
Picture when we picked it up. Not a lot changed.

Also considering points eliminator, anyone experienced in that?

Thanks,
Dave
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Working with my son on his 1973 Thing

[GI Joe]

Remove and clean out your idle jet.. It's on the Pass side of the carb. These often get teeny particles in them, and it wreaks havoc on your idle..
Choke would affect it All the time once warmed up.

The two vacuum lines plunged are from the original vacuum advance dizzy. It appears you now have the all too common 009 mechanical advance in place..
You will Always have a flat spot off idle, with your current carb/dizzy combo! FYI...

I have run electronic ignition in all my VW's over the years... Aside from my own mistake and frying one unit(reversed the wires....😥) I've never had a problem with them. Very easy to install.

Hope it helps!
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'74 Thing, "Our Thing"....
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...p;start=60
'71 Beetle RPU
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8080337#8080337
www.NLEOMF.com
Respect, Honor, Remember

[Q-Dog]

If the car idles, runs and drives OK, but stalls when braking, the issue could be fuel too high in the float bowl. Braking causes the fuel to overflow the bowl and dump down the carb throat causing a short flooding condition. (It could also happen at higher speeds, but it isn't noticeable when the throttle is open.)

Run the engine for a couple of minutes, then shut it down, remove the top of the carb and measure the fuel level. I don't know off hand the correct level for your carb, but 12-14mm sounds somewhat familiar.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[doublecanister]

In my case it was the anti dieseling solonoid (or I think that's the name)
on the driver side of your carb, there is a solonoid with wire running to the coil.

This shuts off fuel flow I believe so the engine wont run on if hot.

if it's gets gummed up in there it can also affect ideling and "slowing to a stop idle issues".

in your photo, it can just be seen behind the fuel filter.
(which for safty reasons I'd probably relocate), I ran a longer fuel hose and moved my filter over to the driver side (oil bath air filter mount) area just to get it away from all the wiring and direct heat. Most remove them from the engine bay completly and put them under the THING before the fuel line enters the compartment.

Hey hope any of our responses help, please let us know how it goes!
good luck with it

T
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2020 - Mustang Eco Boost [High Performance]
1973 - Thing
1966 - Mustang GT- Fastback
1951 - Ford F1 pickup Flathead V8

[Rev. Scott]

As mentioned just above...but I call it the idle cut off switch. facing the motor, you will find a cylindrical doohickey with a wire attached on the left side of the carb. With the key on, remove that wire and replace it...do you hear a click? I still have one car that has intermittent (rather inconvenient) issues with this switch. Pull it out, clean it with some carb cleaner, get the gunk off the electrical blade...et viola! Or just replace it if it don't click. Good luck, Cheers!
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"I haven't seen one of those since I was shootin' at 'em!"

[rrankin]

The wires to my choke and my idler were grounding out on the back of the generator... I died when I took my foot off the gas. Also I cleaned the jets... big improvement.

-R
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'74 Thing [Fritz]
Austin, TX

[doublecanister]

[Rev. Scott]