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Best type 1 bus engine?
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OldIronSpine
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

madmike wrote:
Wrong combo? You been sitting in the Sauna too long Laughing
small Porsche fan pulley keeps head temps great,(Hills in northern Michigan)
Aux oil cooler does the same at high RPM's
Didn't know if this combo would worked, Rolling Eyes ,but didn't have a $1000 laying around for 40x35 heads and larger header,so I made it work Wink


I know this is a little off topic, but do smaller fan pulleys actually help keep the engine cooler? Because they increase power a little bit as well, don't they?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldIronSpine wrote:
madmike wrote:
Wrong combo? You been sitting in the Sauna too long Laughing
small Porsche fan pulley keeps head temps great,(Hills in northern Michigan)
Aux oil cooler does the same at high RPM's
Didn't know if this combo would worked, Rolling Eyes ,but didn't have a $1000 laying around for 40x35 heads and larger header,so I made it work Wink


I know this is a little off topic, but do smaller fan pulleys actually help keep the engine cooler? Because they increase power a little bit as well, don't they?


Not smaller crank pulley for power. Smaller porsche size pulley on alternator will spin fan faster for more CFM to heads.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

sonnybug wrote:
I'm trying to keep it at 1500 for the long block. The starting point is a bone stock 1600 dp. Hasn't been cranked in forever. I'm not against dual carbs, I just would like to put that money into the block for now. I know it won't perform near as well with a single carb, but one thing at a time. I was planning on setting it up for dual, and then adding them later.


You honestly don't have a lot of options with that budget. $1500 can get you the parts necessary to build a nice 1776, depending on what you have to start with.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 8:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

save up for a nice very mild 2332.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote for a 74 stroke standard bore single-port holley bug spray. Cool If not i vote for a 82 stroke 85.5 all else stock dual port with a rejetted 34 pict 3. Roger from Centry Auto vw parts in visala ca has one in his single cab great truck..Roger also has the the 85.5 B stroker pistions and cylinders. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark tucker wrote:
save up for a nice very mild 2332.


We can all dream Very Happy

A balanced 1776 is the way to go on that price range though.
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OldIronSpine
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 12:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

g3bill wrote:
OldIronSpine wrote:
madmike wrote:
Wrong combo? You been sitting in the Sauna too long Laughing
small Porsche fan pulley keeps head temps great,(Hills in northern Michigan)
Aux oil cooler does the same at high RPM's
Didn't know if this combo would worked, Rolling Eyes ,but didn't have a $1000 laying around for 40x35 heads and larger header,so I made it work Wink


I know this is a little off topic, but do smaller fan pulleys actually help keep the engine cooler? Because they increase power a little bit as well, don't they?


Not smaller crank pulley for power. Smaller porsche size pulley on alternator will spin fan faster for more CFM to heads.


So if I did the smaller fan pulley for more air flow, and a smaller crank pulley for more power, can I get both power while remaining a good airflow as if it were stock?
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 2:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldIronSpine wrote:
So if I did the smaller fan pulley for more air flow, and a smaller crank pulley for more power, can I get both power while remaining a good airflow as if it were stock?


Nope.

VW engineers were not stupid they designed the cooling system for the engine. Use all stock parts for best cooling. Mixing Porsche parts and aftermarket parts is a recipe for disaster
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OldIronSpine
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 2:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So no using the Porsche fan pulley either? Even when not pairing it with the crank pulley?
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jkmar73
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I built a 1776 for my bus. Basically was bone stock except for the pistons. Had to do dual duty for smog for a while. Ran great, good mileage, plenty of torque. Ran it in a 67' with reduction gears and a 3.88 r/p. Highway speeds were no problem. Hills on the other hand, toggling between 3rd and 4th a lot.
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ozzo
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 2:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prior to my 1955 i did a 1776 like yors with all stock.
When i added a 4 into 1 single quiet pack i immediatly felt it smoother on highway speed. .. it just feeled like it was keeping the speed easier.
When i bolted on the weber progressive it improved going uphill.
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LivinInnaVWBus
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OldIronSpine wrote:
So no using the Porsche fan pulley either? Even when not pairing it with the crank pulley?


I've got a 356 generator pulley on my alternator with a stock size crank pulley. Works WONDERFULLY and kicks up your heat in the winter quite a bit.
Buy a welded and balanced fan though, it will blow apart a stock fan. Gates belt as well, I went through tons of them which all stretched before i found the Gates.

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Alstrup
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 6:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, there is nothing wrong with using a 356 alternator pulley as such. But why use another1½ to 2 hp at cruise for pulling the fan faster if there is no need (?)
There has been several solutions to get more air in over the engine over the years. Larger lower pulleys, 356 alternator pulleys etc etc. Half of the times the solution would/could have been a better engine combo for what is is supposed to be doing. If you run a high ratio, like the above menthioned 6 rib or a 3 rib with a 4,57 R/P in a bay bus, freeway flyer transmissions in split busses - and a type 1 powerplant, there is a purpose for it. Because then you would want the fan to "think" that the engine is running faster, so that you get the cooling for the actual load on the engine. When I build engines for such vehichles I do just that. But for normally (factory) ratioed cars I don´t because there is no need. No matter if the engine can pull 150 hp or factory 50 hp it still only takes about 42 hp to push a bay bus down the road at 70 mph.
Superior cooling capacity is of course a good thing if you need it. But there is always a downside. If you are setting your system upå so that it overcools the heads and cylinders it will be a VERY good thing to run a 100% thermostatic controlled oil cooling system, meaning that the stock cooler should not be present at all. Otherwise you will run into your engine oil never warming up properly, or at least take too long to do it. Cold oil is about as bad as too warm oil.

T
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OldIronSpine
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 7:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting, that gives me something to think about, because I'll be upgrading the engine to a 1700T and was going to originally stick with the stock ratio but get it as a pro-street because I didn't want the engine to over heat with a FF transmission, but now that in know I can out a smaller alternator pulley on it with a FF transmission and keep the engine cool still, I might go with a pro-street FF, because VWturbokits.com had the 1774cc putting out 134 HP at 7lb. Of boost. Which is good, but I was trying to think how I can get the final drive higher while keeping the engine cool. And I think the 356 pulley will work.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alstrup wrote:
Yes, there is nothing wrong with using a 356 alternator pulley as such. But why use another1½ to 2 hp at cruise for pulling the fan faster if there is no need (?)
There has been several solutions to get more air in over the engine over the years. Larger lower pulleys, 356 alternator pulleys etc etc. Half of the times the solution would/could have been a better engine combo for what is is supposed to be doing.
T


Dead on about the proper engine combo.
In regards to the 356 pulley, I've got a 1500 SP in my daily driven 68' camper with a stock geared trans. If the power loss made much of a difference, my bus wouldn't move Laughing

I've found the pulley beneficial for a few reasons;
- Even in 100 degree+ weather, it keeps my heads well in range and oil temps under 225.
- The heat boost in the winter is REALLY pleasant, my window is clear in minutes.
- My idle is set low for less fuel consumption and my charging light still stays solid.
I never even considered eliminating the stock oil cooler for an auxiliary cooler, but it sounds like a great idea. Without flaps, the pulley would definitely warm up issues.
I just broke down the engine this week for a freshen up after 100k+ miles, besides a failing cam bearing and broken valve spring, all is well. Check out the link in my signature if you want to see what the guts look like. The cylinders did have light glazing, but I could probably even get away without honing them if I didn't know any better.
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 1:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Noooo alsrup....... you make some of the best combo i ve seen..... you cannot fall like this....ah ah ah 70mph 47pony on flat road..... but if you go uphill with big engine y can still go 70 but using more hp..... that s why i like 3rd gear on 4.57 r/p which is sligtly lower that stock 4th.
By the way what is diameter of 356 alt pulley and vw pulley?
Another interesting thing i ve noticed is that high rev heat oil more than going same speed at lower revs... so or the engine has lot of frictions or slowing the oil flow reduces heat dissipation...
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madmike
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 4:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Porsche pulley is 3 3/4 inches and vw stock is 4 1/4" give or take a millimeter or two Laughing
non welded fan on mine Rolling Eyes tick tick tick Laughing Laughing
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 6:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok so pretty much 95mm and 114mm which means that at 5000engine rpm fan spin like at 6000 with a stock pulley.... and at 4500rpm is like at 5400. 4000 is as 4800.... considering i stay max at 4000 maybe i ll try.... only doubt i have is: i read a pretty good test report on pulley, power pulley and flow and was noted that at 4000rpm fan speed reach maximum and at higher rev the belt just slips..... so probably something like serpentine pulley belt is needed to take advantage of this mod
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madmike
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 4:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will never run a serpentine belt system,, (fans explode Rolling Eyes
let the belt slip a little,, saves parts,, belts are cheap,, Carrie a spare,
I have not had to replace mine yet in 3000 miles Wink
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 02, 2015 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been running a seep belt for years. I like it. Granted there has been a few cases of folks grenading their fans. Folks, don't run a stock fan with a serp lol. I ran an out of the package EMPI welded fan for 7 years, a top speed of 141 before I let of the pedal, a couple 8k peaks, and many 7k rpm engine pulls. It never grenaded. Maybe I was lucky. So late last year I heard one of the fan "wierd" noises. I said to myself crap, I think maybe a vane was starting to come loose. Reached back and the nut was tight, fan didn't have play. Went ahead and bought a Racin Jacin fan. Got the fan and took off old one. If i didnt feel fully confident then, i do mow. Jacin's fan is very well welded. So yea, a piece of napkin was stuck to a vane making the wierd noise. Fan was perfect. All tacks holding. Moral of this story is, serpentines are ok to run with the right fan. And I have accepted that if it fails and damage occurs, it's my fault.
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