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What sealant to use on the rear backing plate
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Mountain Minstrel
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 12:03 am    Post subject: What sealant to use on the rear backing plate Reply with quote

Ok, I searched and didn't find anything. Bentley says to use sealant when putting the backing plate on but gives no other details. What should I use?
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 1:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Colin.... Ray...?
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Desertbusman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

About anything would work. It's not that critical or specific like many other sealed item are.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm guessing some kind of gasket maker sealant. There are several available at the flaps.
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atmellovw
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 8:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used Permatex Form-a-Gasket non-hardening pliable sealant.
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am doing this job right now on my 70 SC. I have bead blasted and am painting the backing plate to keep the rust at bay.

With my OCD kicking in I started to wonder if paint is good thing or not on the backing plate/carrier mating surfaces or should I just leave them bare and use sealant around the centre and something like never-seize on the adjuster and cylinder area? I don't know if the sealant might react with the paint(or some such thing) and perhaps lead to this work being done for not. Also, is Ultra Black sealant a good one to use?

I want to keep this truck for a long time and I would like to do it "right" as opposed to just trying to get it back on the road. I do appreciate the high level of skill folks have here and I am sure the "to paint or not to paint" question has gone thru others' minds. Thanks for the input!
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any good catalyzed paint will be fine with sealant applied to it. Rattle can paint is another story
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

scrivyscriv wrote:
Rattle can paint is another story


And that is what I am using. So maybe paint the backside after it is together?


Was VW just getting cheap by 1970 and didn't paint, or did they find painting to be unnecessary? Maybe they never painted the backing plates and carriers?
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't suggest using rattle can paint on brake parts. Brake fluid WILL get on it and melt the paint. I know you want to "do it right" the first time so if you don't have access to a paint spraying setup, you might consider getting it powdercoated. Small parts like the backing plate shouldn't be more than $10-15 to get sandblasted and powdercoated, and you'll be good to go for the long run. Might even be cheaper since you already sandblasted it.
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wcfvw69
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another option is going to your local auto body paint supply. They can mix up some quality, enamel paint and put it in a rattle can for around $20 bucks.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use silicone on the backing plates.
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Okay, thanks! I guess it is another nail in the coffin for rattle can use. I have been increasingly unhappy with the over-time performance of r-c paint, so I might just have to take the plunge into a "proper" paint set up.
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:
Another option is going to your local auto body paint supply. They can mix up some quality, enamel paint and put it in a rattle can for around $20 bucks.


That would be a good option. Is the paint bought there significantly better quality? Is it catalyzed in the can and if so, does it have a shelf life?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

VWDog wrote:
Okay, thanks! I guess it is another nail in the coffin for rattle can use. I have been increasingly unhappy with the over-time performance of r-c paint, so I might just have to take the plunge into a "proper" paint set up.


What brand were you unhappy with? I spit in the general direction of Dupli-Color quality, but the Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel is a really nice paint for the price. It's solvent resistant, and good up to 500*. It's the cleanest-lying paint I've used yet.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry for the delay....work intervened. It also took me a few replies to realize it was rake backing plates.

As for rattle can paints......for brake and steering knuckle parts I have found thd VHT branded caliper and engine paints in rattle can to be as good....and most times better than any other product I have used for suspension parts.....but you must follow the directions to the tee.
clean religiously, start with a light incomplete coat, follow with a more complete coat after 10 minutes but less than 1 hour. Finish with a full medium wet coat. Let cure overnight or longer......then the parts must be baked at 200F for one hour. About 250F for 2 hours is better.

The VHT caliper paints....will come right off with brake fluid....until you bake them. Then they are bulletproof.

They also have a really superb fan spray nozzle. I use a paint can grip and they spray as well as a touch up gun. Shake well.

As far as sealant.......typically if your surfaces are very well painted.....no bare edges....and bolts are painted......put silicone around the edges of the bolts...and a very thin, even layer everywhere else ....but let it dry before mating the parts. You are making a gasket....not sealing a valve cover. Different methods.
You can use any of the Permatex Ultra as they can stand 500-550F constant with peaks to a little over 600.

I have recently found some specialized RTVs that work to 750F and higher. I dont know if you want to know the prices. Ray
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

asiab3 wrote:

What brand were you unhappy with? I spit in the general direction of Dupli-Color quality, but the Rust-Oleum Engine Enamel is a really nice paint for the price. It's solvent resistant, and good up to 500*. It's the cleanest-lying paint I've used yet.


I have been using PlastiKote by Valspar. The engine enamel has the same characteristics as you mention for the Rust-Oleum. For the most part it hasn't been too bad, in fact my friend decided he would go ahead and paint his engine tin when he saw the results I gotů.and he is fussy! However, over time my when fan shroud has gotten dusty it has become harder to clean. I would have thought the surface to be smoother than that, but it seems like time has caused it to become ever so slightly rougher. And it isn't because I just used one coat. I consider three coats almost a minimum. Maybe I am just imagining things or being too picky, neither of which I would put by myself. Wink Smile
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VWDog
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:
Sorry for the delay....work intervened. It also took me a few replies to realize it was rake backing plates.

As for rattle can paints......for brake and steering knuckle parts I have found thd VHT branded caliper and engine paints in rattle can to be as good....and most times better than any other product I have used for suspension parts.....but you must follow the directions to the tee.
clean religiously, start with a light incomplete coat, follow with a more complete coat after 10 minutes but less than 1 hour. Finish with a full medium wet coat. Let cure overnight or longer......then the parts must be baked at 200F for one hour. About 250F for 2 hours is better.

The VHT caliper paints....will come right off with brake fluid....until you bake them. Then they are bulletproof.

They also have a really superb fan spray nozzle. I use a paint can grip and they spray as well as a touch up gun. Shake well.

As far as sealant.......typically if your surfaces are very well painted.....no bare edges....and bolts are painted......put silicone around the edges of the bolts...and a very thin, even layer everywhere else ....but let it dry before mating the parts. You are making a gasket....not sealing a valve cover. Different methods.
You can use any of the Permatex Ultra as they can stand 500-550F constant with peaks to a little over 600.

I have recently found some specialized RTVs that work to 750F and higher. I dont know if you want to know the prices. Ray


That sounds like cool paint Ray. I can see what you mean by following the directions to a tee. But the results sound worth it. I did look at similar paint at my local Lordco auto store, but thought that sounded like I would be going overboard. After what you say, I guess I was wrong and should have gone for it. There was no mention of primer on the can I was looking at, nor do you make any mention of primer. Am I to assume this high heat bake paint doesn't need any?

The RTV Ultra Black says to assemble wet but don't torque the bolts until later. I understand the making a gasket part, I just don't see how I could get the surface even enough to end up with a good seal if I were to wait on assembly before mating the parts. Aren't you bound to end up having spaces trapped in there as the parts go together. Again, maybe I am just over thinking things. Confused
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Brian
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slap a little bit to make a gasket, then wait. Torque them down, then paint on the rest with your finger?
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced the backing plates on my '79 and I used seam sealer.
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 13, 2015 7:31 pm    Post subject: Rear Axle Assembling Reply with quote

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Tcash wrote:
Note all the areas in red are sandwiched together by the big nut #9 Torqued to 35 mkg (253 ft lbs). That holds the assembly together.
The only thing that keeps the complete assembly from moving in/out is #18 the Lockring (snap ring, C-clip) in the back.
Make sure #15 is in there, #9 is torqued to 35 mkp and #18 is securely in place.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The Lockring in this pic is #23
thanks to jerseylooker
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good Luck
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Last edited by Tcash on Wed Apr 20, 2016 4:15 pm; edited 1 time in total
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