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oscarsnapkin Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2013 Posts: 558 Location: Bucks County, PA
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:22 pm Post subject: No Matter What I Do - Exhaust Manifold Leak |
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I'm pretty much at the end of my rope dealing with an exhaust leak on my '77 2.0L Bus. New heads from Headflow Masters with less than 70 miles on them. Go back to spring when I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the right hand side. I took the manifold off, filed it down nice and flat and it worked great. I put compressed air through the tailpipe to check for leaks and noticed that the driver's side was leaking, even though I couldn't notice it by ear. No problem I thought, I'm an expert now. I took it off, filed it flat, now it was leaking worse, from the rearmost exhaust port (can't remember which cylinder number). I've been working on this off and on now for months, having spent well over $150 on gaskets, copper rings, and even another manifold. I haven't been able to drive my Bus all summer, and winter will be here before we know it and it'll be another year of sitting in the garage. I've filed the manifold ends down as flat as I possibly can. I checked them for flatness both on a piece of glass and with a piece of sturdy metal c-channel. I've probably taken the manifold off and on well over 20 times, each time probably taking close to an hour by time I disconnect the u-pipes, undo the manifold, etc... I just don't know what else to do and can't bear the thought of having to do it again. If the manifold is filed flat, how can it be leaking? I could see maybe one or two times if the gaskets didn't seat properly, but not over and over again. Please help me end my madness. _________________ - 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing
"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind." |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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Did you anneal the copper? |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51153 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 3:46 pm Post subject: |
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When you try it on the heads with no gaskets does it go down (up) into the gasket recesses?, or hang up on the edge?. After all that filing do the ears the studs go through bottom out on the head first?. Checked for a crack down on the F pipe where the front and rear pipes merge? (that sounds lust like a head leak).
And as Randy says, how about the annealing? _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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Wasted youth Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012 Posts: 5134 Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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At the risk of sounding like an idiot... because I know you had the heads rebuilt by a competent machinist...
Is it possible the mating surface on the head is actually the culprit, and not the manifold? |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Mon Aug 17, 2015 5:44 pm Post subject: |
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It is possible that you have a hole in the flange or the joint where the flange is brazed to the pipe and do not have a leak at the gasket.
There is more to getting a good seal at the gasket than having the flanges flat, the mating surface of the flanges needs to be pretty much the same exact shape as a new copper gasket. If the flange is eroded or deformed it will not seal well. Inspect your old gasket to see how the flange sits against it and also look for soot left by the leaking exhaust gases. |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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oscarsnapkin Samba Member
Joined: October 22, 2013 Posts: 558 Location: Bucks County, PA
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 3:38 am Post subject: |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
Did you anneal the copper? |
Yes.
busdaddy wrote: |
When you try it on the heads with no gaskets does it go down (up) into the gasket recesses?, or hang up on the edge?. |
Yes. Although, does anyone know the clearance needed between the flange ears and the tip of the manifold in order to avoid 'bottoming out?' I don't think that is the problem though. I've checked the mating on a bench with another head that I have. I also used grinder to take a bit of metal off of the flanges just in case they were hitting the head.
Wasted youth wrote: |
At the risk of sounding like an idiot... because I know you had the heads rebuilt by a competent machinist...
Is it possible the mating surface on the head is actually the culprit, and not the manifold? |
Mating surface seems fine from what I can see. I placed the copper rings up into the head with a thin, even smear of Permatex to hold them into place. They appear to be sitting flush. The heads are new, not rebuilt, so I'm hoping this is a sealing problem and not a head problem.
Wildthings wrote: |
It is possible that you have a hole in the flange or the joint where the flange is brazed to the pipe and do not have a leak at the gasket. |
The first manifold I used I believed was leaking between the flange and pipe as you said. I had it welded around both flanges to seal it up and figured that was the problem.
I appreciate the suggestions, I just can't believe how much of a PITA this has been, and I'm kind of disappointed with myself that I haven't been able to figure this out. If worse comes to worse, I have an appointment with Colin in about 5 weeks so I'm sure he'd be able to help me out. I just hate to waste what little time I have with him working on exhaust. _________________ - 1977 CEI Sunroof Bus 2.0L F.I. Hydraulic Lifters
- 1973 Thing
"It’s so easy to laugh, it’s so easy to hate, it takes strength to be gentle and kind." |
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Wasted youth Samba Member
Joined: July 06, 2012 Posts: 5134 Location: California's Hot and Smoggy Central Valley
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:22 am Post subject: |
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I can only suggest rigging up a low pressure air set up and back pressure your manifold after you torque it down to the head. Then use a small application of soapy water to show you where the leak is. A long tedious pain, but might resolve part of the mystery. |
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3779 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 4:48 am Post subject: |
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Use a length of rubber hose to search for exhaust leaks at all the joints and where the manifolds are brazed together at the collars on the flanges themselves. How certain are you the air injection ports are leak free?
You might be in the need of this...
_________________ 1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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skills@eurocarsplus Samba Peckerhead
Joined: January 01, 2007 Posts: 16883 Location: sticksville, ct.
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 5:48 am Post subject: |
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this is a good job for a smoke machine. you can buy a cheapie from ebay made from a paint can. you'll use it more than you think _________________
gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
Jake Raby wrote: |
Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
Brian wrote: |
Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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nathansnathan Samba Member
Joined: April 14, 2008 Posts: 1671
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:14 am Post subject: |
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I had to reweld where the stubs meet the pipes on some type 4 dansk boxes. I noticed they brazed them on in Denmark, and I assumed the stubs are cast iron. I used a tig welder and brazed welded them with silicone bronze. Welding cast iron to steel with steel filler, it is likely to crack again.
+1 on verifiying the seal using air. I use a small tube of aluminum that I have shoved through a large rubber stopper. I put the valves to tdc and check them 1 by 1, blowing through the tube with my mouth, with the stopper held against the heaterbox flanges, muffler off. Dansk boxes are not quite true and it matters what order you torque them in I 've found. |
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udidwht Samba Member
Joined: March 06, 2005 Posts: 3779 Location: Seattle, WA./ HB, Ca./ Shizuoka, Japan
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 6:46 am Post subject: |
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nathansnathan wrote: |
I had to reweld where the stubs meet the pipes on some type 4 dansk boxes. I noticed they brazed them on in Denmark, and I assumed the stubs are cast iron. I used a tig welder and brazed welded them with silicone bronze. Welding cast iron to steel with steel filler, it is likely to crack again.
+1 on verifiying the seal using air. I use a small tube of aluminum that I have shoved through a large rubber stopper. I put the valves to tdc and check them 1 by 1, blowing through the tube with my mouth, with the stopper held against the heaterbox flanges, muffler off. Dansk boxes are not quite true and it matters what order you torque them in I 've found. |
Welding them with whatever....only time will tell. I only found a few small suspect spots and tigged-filled them all the way around. So far so good 15K+ miles and counting so far. They are the original heater box units. _________________ 1972 Westy Hardtop/Type-4 2056cc
96mm Biral AA P/C's~7.8:1CR
Headflow Masters New AMC 42x36mm heads w/Porsche swivel adjusters
71mm Stroke
73 Web Cam w/Web solids
Dual 40mm IDF Webers - LM-2 - 47.5 idles/125 mains/190 air corr./F11 tubes/28mm Vents - Float height 10.45mm/Drop 32mm
Bosch SVDA w/Pertronix module (7.5 initial 28 total @ 3400rpm)
Bosch W8CC plugs
Pertronix Flamethrower 40K coil
S&S 4-1 w/Walker QP 17862
3 rib 002 Trans
185R14 Hankook tires |
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Tue Aug 18, 2015 10:36 am Post subject: |
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$3.99 at HF
_________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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Wildthings Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 50352
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 6:47 am Post subject: |
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udidwht wrote: |
nathansnathan wrote: |
I had to reweld where the stubs meet the pipes on some type 4 dansk boxes. I noticed they brazed them on in Denmark, and I assumed the stubs are cast iron. I used a tig welder and brazed welded them with silicone bronze. Welding cast iron to steel with steel filler, it is likely to crack again.
+1 on verifiying the seal using air. I use a small tube of aluminum that I have shoved through a large rubber stopper. I put the valves to tdc and check them 1 by 1, blowing through the tube with my mouth, with the stopper held against the heaterbox flanges, muffler off. Dansk boxes are not quite true and it matters what order you torque them in I 've found. |
Welding them with whatever....only time will tell. I only found a few small suspect spots and tigged-filled them all the way around. So far so good 15K+ miles and counting so far. They are the original heater box units. |
The OEM flanges are not cast iron and accept weld quite well. I have built up eroded flanges with a MIG unit running SS wire with no question as to the integrity of the weld. I would be concerned with welding the pipes to the flanges as this might cause the pipes to break at the welds. Using good welding procedures should help here and welding the flanges to the pipes is something I would definitely do if I thought necessary. The right SS weld rod and a stick welder should work fine as well. |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Wed Aug 19, 2015 8:11 am Post subject: |
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Never saw where the leak is from, though you intimate that the leak is at the head. I once had the manifold pipe rust away at the bottom at the heat exchanger ( wish I had kept those to weld). Is it possible that the leak is at the cylinders and head seal? _________________ '72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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Tcash Samba Member
Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12844 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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