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quartermilecamel
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Location: ohio
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 Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:29 pm Post subject: OMG. yet another oil light on at idle question. |
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1600dp 1964 bus stock gearing 205 75 15 tires. after 30 minute drive, oil light stays on at idle and idle is around 900 rpm. had Castrol 10w40, switched to rotella t 15w40. Still comes on at idle. Swapped oil light switch. Engine has around 45,000 miles on it I think. Also have vdo electric oil pressure guage. Noticed oil pressure drops to 35 or 36 psi from 40 after 30 minute cruise while cruising. Thinking the bottom end is going south. Already seen the vw bulletin about oil lights on at idle, and people that a.have the same problem for years, engine runs fine, and b. others that say it wont run for long like that. This motor did not used to do this, so something changed. Oil pressure is around 50 cold. What I really don't understand is how the vdo guage says I have 5 to 10 lbs and the light is on  Unless guage is reading on the high side for the near zero pressures. Other than checking oil relief pistons, don't think there is much else that can be done.
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c21darrel
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nvmipis1
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quartermilecamel
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:33 pm Post subject: |
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yes, just like others if I raise rpm at all light goes out.
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quartermilecamel
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Location: ohio
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:34 pm Post subject: |
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| c21darrel wrote: |
If you raise the rpm does light go out?
You could try a different sending unit, see if it reacts the same. |
I did try new sending unit light switch. Same results. Hmm 40 weight or relief pistons, about the only options. 40 weight here I come, but somehow thinking that's a bandaide. I wonder what the pressure will jump to.
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Last edited by quartermilecamel on Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:54 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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wcfvw69 
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Joined: June 10, 2004
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Location: Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Screw a pressure gauge into the sender port and see what pressures you're getting when the oils hot at idle. This will verify your light is flickering as it should.
Have you measured you oil temperature? It might be a good idea to see how hot your oil is getting.
While I'm not a fan of any 10w-50 weight oil, several veterans run it in their higher mileage engines to help with oil pressure.
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quartermilecamel
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:57 pm Post subject: |
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Have vdo sending unit screwed into dual relief valve by crank pulley. Oil pressure......wait oil temp around 200  Engine spit case test not passed........no sizzle
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Teeroy
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Joined: April 20, 2003
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Location: Eastern WA
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:04 pm Post subject: OMG. yet another oil light on at idle question. |
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Are you using the stock pressure sender for the light or a VDO dual pole sender? The dual pole turns on the light too soon at too high of pressure.
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Campy
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 11:06 pm Post subject: |
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Don't put 40 wt. oil in the engine. Most wear is put on an engine before it is warmed up and thick oil does not lubricate well when an engine is cold. Also, it gets thin when it is hot, anyway. I have been using 20/50 Castrol GTX oil in my bus engines for thirty years and with good results. It has elongated polymers and it is 20 wt. when the engine is cold, which is what you want, and stays at 20 wt. when it is hot. The 40 wt. oil is opposite of that: 40 wt. when cold and thinned out when it is hot, anyway.
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olliehank47
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:03 am Post subject: |
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| Campy wrote: |
| Don't put 40 wt. oil in the engine. Most wear is put on an engine before it is warmed up and thick oil does not lubricate well when an engine is cold. Also, it gets thin when it is hot, anyway. I have been using 20/50 Castrol GTX oil in my bus engines for thirty years and with good results. It has elongated polymers and it is 20 wt. when the engine is cold, which is what you want, and stays at 20 wt. when it is hot. The 40 wt. oil is opposite of that: 40 wt. when cold and thinned out when it is hot, anyway. |
This is not really accurate.
Without getting too technical, single weight oils, say 40 wt., are classified as such at engine operating temperatures--210* F or 100*C. A 40 wt. oil will be extremely thick when cold, possibly causing wear issues due to lack of proper flow, but it will flow as a 40 wt. when the engine is warm. As the oil ages in the engine and goes through repeated heat cycles, the viscosity may break down and may become "thinner".
20/50, or any two number oil, is actually a 20w/50, the "w" standing for "winter". This means the oil was tested at cold temperature--below zero--to measure viscosity at winter start-up. A 20w/50 oil would flow as a 20 wt. oil in below zero conditions and gradually the viscosity would increase to 50 wt. flow characteristics as the engine heated to operating temperature.
I believe you had a typo in the post. A 20w/50 oil will not remain 20 wt. viscosity, it will flow as a warm 50 wt. oil at operating temperatures.
More information here, if interested. http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/ |
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nvmipis1
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Joined: August 25, 2012
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Location: riverside , ca.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:12 am Post subject: |
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| Read the thread i posted , i will say i live in california so using 40 weight is common here . but read my thread and i also posted videos check it out i think it might help alot |
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twistedbug
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:16 am Post subject: |
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| my new stock sending unit was bad, flickered at idle then went out when the rpm's went up, swapped the unit out with one from my spare motor, light went out and has never come back on, not uncommon to get a bad one |
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olliehank47
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:27 am Post subject: |
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| nvmipis1 wrote: |
| Read the thread i posted , i will say i live in california so using 40 weight is common here . but read my thread and i also posted videos check it out i think it might help alot |
I read the thread you posted and I even had posted on it. If were talking about the same thread, it appears that you solved your problem by replacing the oil sender--at least that's where that thread ended. Your engine sounds good to me on the video.
I don't understand why you posted this new thread if the problem was resolved, unless you wanted the dual sending unit and the light comes on again.
You live in Riverside where it's very hot in the summer. I don't think you have a problem running straight 40 wt. oil until the overnight/early morning temps fall to low levels in the winter. |
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nvmipis1
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Joined: August 25, 2012
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Location: riverside , ca.
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:44 am Post subject: |
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| olliehank47 wrote: |
| nvmipis1 wrote: |
| Read the thread i posted , i will say i live in california so using 40 weight is common here . but read my thread and i also posted videos check it out i think it might help alot |
I read the thread you posted and I even had posted on it. If were talking about the same thread, it appears that you solved your problem by replacing the oil sender--at least that's where that thread ended. Your engine sounds good to me on the video.
I don't understand why you posted this new thread if the problem was resolved, unless you wanted the dual sending unit and the light comes on again.
You live in Riverside where it's very hot in the summer. I don't think you have a problem running straight 40 wt. oil until the overnight/early morning temps fall to low levels in the winter. |
ok cool , no my problem it was solved i just wanted to share my story on to the next person who might have the same problem i had thats why i said to make sure you read thread cause i thought it was something of help but guess not. good luck. |
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