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SCM
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Joined: January 26, 2011
Posts: 3115
Location: Bozeman MT
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 Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 7:47 am Post subject: ARB compressor wiring question |
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I've seen where a few of you have the ARB compressor that GoWesty sells. I installed one last year and followed the instructions that say to connect the relay trigger wire to a switched power source so that it can only operate when the vehicle is running. That makes sense for when you're using it to inflate auto tires but it's obnoxious to start the van when you just want to inflate bicycle tires - which takes about 4 seconds and is what mine is used for most frequently.
I understand that that wire needs to be on SOME KIND of switched power so the diodes in the line don't kill your battery. I was wondering if I could just hook it up to the Westy galley indicator light switch. Or maybe just directly to the battery with a dedicated switch on that wire.
Have any of you done something like this? Thoughts?
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine |
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tim_ha
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Joined: November 20, 2012
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:05 am Post subject: |
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Does the van really have to be running? I hooked mine up to the circuit that powers the stereo and cig lighter which is hot when the key is in the ON position... No starting required.
You are correct though. Any switched power source will work fine. The compressor doesn't actually draw power from the source so you don't have to worry about that.
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1986 Syncro Sunroof EJ22
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ng
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Joined: October 01, 2011
Posts: 116
Location: Edmonton, AB
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 8:14 am Post subject: |
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I have the GoWesty ARB compressor package.
I installed the compressor under the rear bench seat (wired to my aux battery also under the rear bench). I installed the switch on the cabinet wall behind the drivers seat, and keep my air hose and other accessories in the original aux battery box, all conveniently located in the same place--hit the switch and grab what you need. I ran a 12V fused trigger wire from one of the key-in hot spades on the back of the fuse block, along with a line from the dash lights to power the switch light on the same dimmer as my dash lights. Both wires come out under the dash and are run under the floor pad, through the aux battery box, and into the cabinet to the switch. This way I can power the compressor if I want to with just the key in, but typically I do prefer to start the van.
This is working well for me. It took a bit of work, but the result is nice. There are some pics in my build thread, if you are interested I can post one here of the switch location later.
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1986 Syncro Westy "Braunbaer"
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=607112 |
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SCM
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Joined: January 26, 2011
Posts: 3115
Location: Bozeman MT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 9:01 am Post subject: |
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| ng wrote: |
| if you are interested I can post one here of the switch location later. |
Thanks but there's no need for photos. Mine is already installed but I'm thinking of relocating just that one wire. I like the "key in hot spade" on the fusebox idea. Do you recall which spade that was?
I have no photos of mine but it's installed in the "secret cubby" space behind the Westy AC outlet in front of the water tank. I had a custom bracket welded up so it mounts super solid rather than rely on screws into the low density wood on the floor. It was a super b**ch to work in such tight quarters but I didn't want to lose any other storage space. My switch is located on side of the sink cabinet behind the driver's seat where it's easily accessed from outside the van.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine |
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ng
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Joined: October 01, 2011
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Location: Edmonton, AB
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SCM
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Joined: January 26, 2011
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Location: Bozeman MT
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 10:03 am Post subject: |
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| tim_ha wrote: |
| The compressor doesn't actually draw power from the source so you don't have to worry about that. |
A guy at ARB told me otherwise.
I can't find the email but it was something along the lines that that particular wire is to trigger the relay to open in order to allow the compressor to draw power from the battery. BUT that trigger wire has a diode(s) in it which does draw a very small amount of juice all the time unless the wire is connected to a switched source which is why you don't connect it directly to the battery.
Mine is currently connected to the blue refrigerator trigger wire in the aux battery box since I don't use a 'frige and my aux battery and other wiring teminals are in that location.
I'm leaning toward connecting it to some point in the galley wiring system with it's own switch so people can use the compressor for small jobs without needing to find my keys. Like I mentioned earlier, it gets the most use inflating mountain bike tires and doesn't run long enough for me to worry about killing the battery. I can always start the van for bigger jobs when it should be fed by the alternator.
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tim_ha
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Joined: November 20, 2012
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:24 am Post subject: |
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| SCM wrote: |
| tim_ha wrote: |
| The compressor doesn't actually draw power from the source so you don't have to worry about that. |
A guy at ARB told me otherwise.
I can't find the email but it was something along the lines that that particular wire is to trigger the relay to open in order to allow the compressor to draw power from the battery. BUT that trigger wire has a diode(s) in it which does draw a very small amount of juice all the time unless the wire is connected to a switched source which is why you don't connect it directly to the battery. |
I didn't mean to imply that absolutely zero power was drawn from the trigger wire. All that I meant was that when the pump is running it draws its power from the big wires that connect straight to the battery. You can hook the trigger wire up to any switched circuit without having to worry about wire gauge, fuse size, etc. of the circuit that you are tapping into.
I have my ARB compressor wired up to the starter battery (trigger wire to the accessories circuit) and have never needed to start the van even when airing back up all four tires after getting back to the pavement. I can "jump" the starter battery with the house battery in an emergency, so I don't worry about the compressor killing the starting battery. But, like I said it never has anyway.
I started looking at the wiring to see if you could replace the ARB switch with an alternate switch which wouldn't require tapping into a switched source so that you could have just one switch to turn the compressor on instead of two. Unless I am missing something, which is quite possible, I don't see how it is possible for any power to be drawn from whatever you connect the trigger wire to with the ARB switch in the off position. I am an EE, but again maybe I am missing something. Of course if the dashboard illumination was wired to the same source then the LED would always be on which would kill the battery. I believe that the reason ARB wants you to wire it to an ignition on source is because the compressor can draw up to 30 amps and they want your alternator to source that power rather than your starting battery. Of course whatever you tap into should be a FUSED source for safety.
I'd be interested in reading that email if you find it. Anyway, I have gotten a bit off topic here and I think you probably have a good handle on what you want to do.
Good luck
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