Recovery shackle question

[SCM]

Now that I've installed a Burley high clearance receiver hitch, I've lost my tow loops and am wondering what to do next time I get stuck or *gulp* need to be pulled up onto a flatbed.

I see where you can buy a shackle installed on a 2" male insert that slides into the receiver. I know I want a shackle rated for about 3x the weight of my Westy but what about the pin that goes through the receiver to hold the shackle in place?

Does that pin take the entire load?

If so, is there a special pin needed for recovery vs towing?

Assuming it fits, any reason not to just shove the strap into the receiver and then slide the pin through the strap loop?

Sorry for the questions. My receiver's primary function is hauling bicycles.
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'91 Westfalia GL Automatic (GTA "Turbo" Rebuild w/Peloquin) and 2.3L GoWesty Engine

[goffoz]

[Hnoroian]

[IdahoDoug]

Any receiver pin will work with the male recovery device and shackle - such as the Smittybuilt one linked above. They are designed for the forces of towing and recovery. One comment about the locking pins is that I used a hardened locking pin on a 10,000 mile heavy tow and found the pin wore the hole in my hitch slightly. I believe it was because it was slightly smaller than the pin that came with my hitch, and it was hardened. I'd have much rather seen half the wear on a non hardened pin and half on the hitch as I could then just get a new pin.

Your other question regarding using the strap directly on the pin is a no-no. The pin is not designed to handle forces like that exerted on the unsupported center of the pin. It can bend the pin. They are then a nightmare to get out of the hitch. I don't think it would fail (unless it were a brittle hardened locking style) outright, but they will bend. This is simply because they are designed to handle the forces of the hitch and receiver trying to mash into the pin, at the edges - not to handle a bending force of an unsupported pin.

I love the male insert with shackle design for recovery. You can whale on those all day long with a proper frame-bolted Class III hitch, and I have. It makes a great super-strong recovery point. Just know that with that setup your vehicle is strong enough to rip ordinary hardware off the other vehicle if things get hairy - and you can get hurt by flying metal. Be safe.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Abscate]

The pin needs to be rated 1x the mass of the Vanagon, not 3x. Be careful the rating of the hitch is not lower than the mass of the Vanagon though!

Pulling a Vanagon onto a flat bed is easier on the pin than towing since there are no shock loads.

Alternatively , one can recover by going underneath onto a frame member[/youtube]
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.ssS!

[j_dirge]