Rust on the front beam

windfish · Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 9:42 pm Post subject: Rust on the front beam

I searched here and found a few varying opinions, some saying rust in this area should be patched eventually but it's not the end of the world, others claiming death and destruction would follow should the owner drive another mile on it.

I've driven this thing ~9k miles, it's had an alignment and balljoints done at a shop and noone said anything. I just saw it today looking for something unrelated, still not entirely sure how I missed it; clearly it's been like this for a while.

Driver's side

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Passenger's side

I was thinking about taking it on a 300 mile round trip in two weeks, currently rethinking that plan.

Will probably go ahead and order a replacement, would appreciate any insight as to the issues I'll run into swapping this thing out.
The Bentley almost makes it look easy, and it seems like people swap in narrowed/adjustable beams all the time without much fanfare.
Just not something I've done yet.

Thoughts?

Multi69s · Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 10:46 pm Post subject:

It's hard to tell from the picture, but if it is just the shock tower that is rusted, it's not good, but I would probably putt around town until the replacement came in. However, if it has eaten into the tube (especially a hole), I would stop driving it. The problem with rust is, even though you may just see a small hole in the tube, the integrity of the metal around the tube has been compromised as well. Also, you do not know how far this cancer has affected the metal (1/4, 1/2, or 3/4 around the tube). All it might take is one good pothole, and bad things could happen. Just like brakes, you also want to have your suspension, and control parts in top notch condition. Especially if I am driving next to you.

As far as replacement, it really is pretty easy. The hardest part is that the beam is a little awkward to handle when fully assembled.
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Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
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Tim Donahoe · Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2015 11:30 pm Post subject:

There's more than just a "hole" there. I might drive it a couple miles to the store and back, but certainly not a 300-mile round trip.

Tim
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pwmcguire · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 3:35 am Post subject:

Start looking for a new front beam. It's fairly easy to swap one out, if your thinking about it, get it narrowed. Stay away from the urethane bushings, reuse the German grease seals, if they are still good. Get one of these http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/otc-ball-joint-...oint+toole Read up, if your inclined you can do it yourself.

76VDubya · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 3:53 am Post subject:

I am in the process of replacing my beam as well. Mine looked like your driver's side (on both sides Shocked

), plus both shock mounting holes were almost rusted out.

I finally found a used original beam, but if I had to do it all over again, I would have just ponied up for a new OEM one.

The removal/install is pretty simple and straightforward, but the beam is pretty heavy/akward, dirty, and rusty, so plan accordingly.

A couple of things I would recommend:

1. A Tie rod/ball-joint seperator tool (not a pickle fork)
2. An extra set of hands (along with a floor jack) to help maneuver the beam
3. A cut-off tool to remove the rusty sway bar clamps (cip1 has new OEM ones)
4. Bolt the steering box on first, then install the beam without the arms, or anything else attached, then assemble the rest on the car.

Here's a good link to check out: http://vwblvd.com/?p=1163

goober · Samba Member Joined: May 03, 2003 Posts: 1183

On your new beam I'd weld all around the seam where the two halfs of the shock tower are spot-welded together to seal out future water. I'd also put 1/4"-20 hole and screw near the top of the tower so I could spray oil on the inside of each tower yearly.

Q-Dog · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 6:25 am Post subject:

windfish · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:01 pm Post subject:

Thanks all.
The rust hasn't eaten into the tube, it just got the support.
The camera flash made the inside look worse than it does in person, but it does show off the rather nice rust holes.

Multi69s · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 7:27 pm Post subject:

If you can get the arms on the torsion leaves as a unit, you would be so lucky, you had better buy a lottery ticket as well. Probably the hardest part and most time consuming is to get the trailing arms back on. Since the torsion bar is actually a set of leaves, they sometimes like to move around which makes getting the arms on a real PITA. I use a bunch of rubber bands wrapped around the leaves really tight. For my self, this seams to be the best method. You'll also want to get one of these.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

That way you don't tear the ball joint boot. Usually HF tools aren't too good, but I've done two front ends with this tool, and it seems to be holding up. You will also need a large Allen wrench, to get out the grub screws.
_________________
69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=

76VDubya · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2015 9:15 pm Post subject:

Multi69s · Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 9:24 am Post subject:

pwmcguire · Posted: Sun Sep 20, 2015 12:30 pm Post subject:

windfish · Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:02 am Post subject:

Ended up picking up a new Kustom1 rebuilt beam off craigslist, still wrapped for shipping. Apparently the guy sold his bug before getting around to putting it in (?).
He let it go for a reasonable price, and I didn't have to wait a couple weeks for the new beam to come in, then assemble it.

German beam with the adjusters welded in (3" drop)

I don't really care about the adjusters, but I don't guess having 'em hurts any.
Got it installed over the weekend, wasn't too bad just took a while.
Picked up a tool similar to what Multi69s recommended, worked great.

I do have a quick question on the adjustability
This is how it came set:

I was thinking that all the way 'down' (with the adjustment bolt backed all the way out) was the lowest wheel position.
Is that correct?
It seems like the front of my car is sitting a little lower than it was (maybe?), how far do these generally adjust?

Did run into an issue with the swaybar, apparently I installed it too low and the towbar couldn't clear. I took it off this morning before taking the bug over to have an alignment, will try again...

Northof49 · Posted: Tue Sep 29, 2015 11:05 am Post subject:

Yes, the lower the screw, the lower the car. Be sure to tighten both screws and lock nuts afterwards.
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