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Butty's Bits - Heim Joint Throttle Pedal Linkage Conversion
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Brian
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use some super lube on that thing.

I feel like everyone should ditch their stock one and get this, worth it.
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 4:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Super lube on what?
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Brian wrote:

I feel like everyone should ditch their stock one and get this, worth it.


https://youtu.be/FFrag8ll85w?t=45

Laughing
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did you leave the nylock nut slightly loose so the throttle cable end would slide between the washers? If not it will brake the cable right at the end of the hook.
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Good Luck
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 7:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes...I followed the instructions and the washer turns freely.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean comes with a T-shirt and instructions. Sign me up Brian.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 22, 2015 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pft what, all I got was a couple of stickers and UK car show meet flyers
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 8:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Timely thread..... I just sat down to search for a solution to my sticky, rinky-dink throttle linkage setup. Thanks fellas!
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butty
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 9:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leaving the Eyelet on the cable loose is what i recommend , we had a few people over here breaking cables , hence orders now have an extra label on explaining about backing it off .
I only add flyers from uk shows as thats all i have to offer and a sticker lol . Although some of you may receive a smelly air freshner as well now .... Glad to see kits getting fitted out there now .
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Brian
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I thought that was funny, but definitely needed to let people know that they should leave it a hair loose.

Cheers man.
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scrivyscriv
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 11:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only real issue I have with this kit is the nylock nuts. Coming from my A&P aircraft mx curriculum, locknuts are disallowed if the bolt is subject to rotation, for good reason.

My OG-replacement kit from Wolfsburg West has the same nylock nuts and they WILL come loose over time. The thru-bolt that holds the cable eyelet has already backed off, in just the six months I've been daily driving the bus.

They need to be replaced with castellated nuts and cotter pins.

http://rgl.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library....607-1.pdf

No, we're not working on aircraft, it's "just" a volkswagen, but in my professional mechanic's opinion it's a latent safety issue.



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Last edited by scrivyscriv on Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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butty
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The shaft shouldn't rotate . There is a sealed bearing in the main body , the bolt is just to hold it all 8n place .
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butty wrote:
The shaft shouldn't rotate . There is a sealed bearing in the main body , the bolt is just to hold it all 8n place .



I did miss that, and you're right, that should keep the bolt from rotating and loosening up the lock nut, since it rides in a bearing.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What was the spring for? I don't seem to need it.

I swear my Bus goes faster now (certainly off the line)... I guess using the original hardware my dual carbs weren't opening up all the way.

Easily got it up to 85 this AM.

WHOA!

Sure glad to get rid of that damn Jesus clip on the gas pedal.
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butty
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The spring is to make it all return better . That in itself makes a big difference as well . One end hooks up on the opposite side to where the cable connects . Then pull straight back to the cross member drill a small 3mm hole and hook the other end in and spring will make the pedal pop back up , so taking the pressure off your return springs on your carb / carbs .
Will try and get some photos up for you . It makes the kit even better .
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chabanais
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butty wrote:
The spring is to make it all return better . That in itself makes a big difference as well . One end hooks up on the opposite side to where the cable connects . Then pull straight back to the cross member drill a small 3mm hole and hook the other end in and spring will make the pedal pop back up , so taking the pressure off your return springs on your carb / carbs .
Will try and get some photos up for you . It makes the kit even better .


A photo would be nice. Also, I didn't get any instructions but easily figured it out. I seem to have pretty good pedal return from the accelerator cable tension itself.

I appreciate the well engineered aspect of this product and is one of the few times someone has done better than VW did.
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butty wrote:
Leaving the Eyelet on the cable loose is what i recommend , we had a few people over here breaking cables , hence orders now have an extra label on explaining about backing it off .
I only add flyers from uk shows as thats all i have to offer and a sticker lol . Although some of you may receive a smelly air freshner as well now .... Glad to see kits getting fitted out there now .


You should give some thought to posting some installation videos on Youtube.

Thank you for providing such a nice product.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:46 pm    Post subject: Accelerator Pedal Linkage Faliure Reply with quote

Here's an accelerator linkage story for you.

So I disconnected the accelerator pedal to put in a new floor mat. Put it all back together and I decide to run down to the store. Shove the tools in the shop and take off. Right in the middle of crossing an expressway the accel pedal drops to the floor. What the hell, I checked the push rod spring at the pedal, still on there. Picture this, trying to push a bus with a knee brace on, cars flying by and honking. It ain’t working. A passerby offers to help, cool. Well this homeless guy sees what’s going on and starts pushing it too. Now the bus is flying down the road. On my bad knee, I can't keep up with it. So as I make my last ditch effort to jump in the seat, I assess what the bus will hit if I don't make it. Not much just a farmer’s water tower. Well I made it luckily. Thank the guys; give the homeless dude some money. Guess who left their tools at home. You guessed it. Get a hold of the wife. Try explaining what tools you need to the missus when she thinks a ratchet is a noise maker. Well bring the noise maker and etc. She pulls up with the tools and my daughter. It’s time to pull the pedal pan. Get it off slide it to the side. Take a look and the little accel push rod spring is gone. Yes the one that holds the push rod onto the accel cable lever. From my vantage I look in the pedal pan and it is no were to be seen. So after 15 minutes of my wife and daughter looking for a piece of wire, I'm under the bus with excruciating knee pain. My daughter walks up with a piece of rusty old wire in here hand and ask "Dad will this work"? Great yes it will. As I'm fighting to get this rusty old wire around the pedal pushrod end, that keeps breaking. My daughter reaches down into the pan and says “what’s this dad”. You guessed it the push rod spring. Tried to reinstall it, kept popping off. So I went with the rusty old wire to get it home.
The moral of the story is. Have the missus hand you tools more often and don't leave home without them.
I didn’t say it was a good story!
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chimneyfish
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

butty wrote:
The spring is to make it all return better . That in itself makes a big difference as well . One end hooks up on the opposite side to where the cable connects . Then pull straight back to the cross member drill a small 3mm hole and hook the other end in and spring will make the pedal pop back up , so taking the pressure off your return springs on your carb / carbs .
Will try and get some photos up for you . It makes the kit even better .


I have heard nothing but good feedback on your throttle kits here in the UK, and looked at your website several times in the past and been impressed with the straight forward engineering solutions you have applied to improve both T1 splits and T2 bays stock throttle linkages.

However, I own a 1976 RHD bay, a different set up again I know, but I think there is room for improvement on that stock set up as well.

Have you any plans to engineer something for RHD 76 model year onwards buses?

If you have, you can put me down on the list as one of your first orders!

Cheers
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butty
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hope to have a rhd late kit soon but I think it will only fit from 73 to 75 /76 . If yours is the kit with the silly S shaped pushrod under the pedal then this will fit yours , If any of you guys want to look at stuff I'm making or have made go checkout my Facebook page Buttys Bits . There are various new things coming . Several items you will wonder why has nobody done this before . I like simple solutions . Also most of the items I make are what I have needed in the past .
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