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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you guys cutting the "legs" off if so is the box sitting flush and than where are you getting your air supply from? The resonator is not designed to be an air inlet. Running a snorkel is a problem if I have A/C. assuming the snorkel is facing up, The Ford forums are saying that the SVT snorkel is the one to use on the Focus vehicle's but that may be problematic on the VW. All other CAI are providing NO power increase and are increasing the Noise or Tone so those are out.
Now I have a question and haven't looked into it yet , Are the side vents on the VW open directly into the rear engine compartment on a Westy w/AC.
I don't want to put a snorkel up there only to have the noise inside the van, would building a snorkel setup like the one on the passenger side work, as the hoses for the A/C are going to have to be rerouted because of the compressor is on the opposite side now.
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 9:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bassysaks,
Yes, the legs are cut off, and the air supply comes in from below.
You don't need a snorkel unless you're going to drive back woods, dusty roads.

Yes the side vents are open to the engine compartment. I added the Bulli Scoops, which lowers the engine area temps even more, via increased air flow. (optional)

The A/C hoses are routed down and over the transmission, or under it. They should not be in the way of anything.

You can add a snorkel to the driver's side, if you do dusty cross country stuff, and plastic weld a hose connection on the rear of the air box. In that case, you'd seal off the bottom of the air box using aluminum sheet and RTV.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you make a bracket for the box? or is the box floating?
How much space is underneath the box?
are you cutting a hole in the sheet metal ?
My A/C lines are in the same location as where I want to put the air box, the lines run up and over the engine compartment in the overhead compartment. There are all of the A/C controls in the snorkel area.
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bassysaks,
The box is floating and attached to the cobrahead.
I don't understand the space question, but it kindof sits on the shelf behind the tailights.
Which sheetmetal did you want to cut a hole in?

The old A/C lines are normally replaced by RG134 hose, smaller, easy to work with. So the new lines would be in back area of the tailight, and run through existing holes towards the front. They don't come out into the engine area where the new airbox is. Am I being clear or confusing you?

A snorkel and tube/hose feed to airbox should have plenty of room next to the A/C controls and hoses.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,
I just went out and looked at the two Westys here. The A/C controls etc are behind the sheetmetal, and you'd be able to run the snorkel and hose down to the airbox, if that's what you need. The airbox has plenty of room around it if you decided that's where you want your A/C hoses to come out. But it's easier to run them through existing holes towards the front of the van, over the frame, and towards the new compressor location. I took photos, but they aren't very clear.
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________________________________________
1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your picking up the incoming air from the bottom of the airbox . correct?
So the Cobra head is supporting the whole weight of the airbox?
doesn't it bounce around, is there enough room under it to get sufficient air flow?
I know when we used to "strap" the intake inlets on the turbo cars to keep them from blowing off under boost, are you doing something similar or is the hose clamp doing all of the work?
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Your picking up the incoming air from the bottom of the airbox . correct?
So the Cobra head is supporting the whole weight of the airbox?
doesn't it bounce around, is there enough room under it to get sufficient air flow?
I know when we used to "strap" the intake inlets on the turbo cars to keep them from blowing off under boost, are you doing something similar or is the hose clamp doing all of the work?

Bottom on mine, yes.
Cobrahead on one side, sheet metal shelf on the other end, MAF wiring too, I suppose.
I haven't notice any movement at all, but again, I don't drive over rough roads.
The engine lid also constrains its movement, it's right against the top of the cobrahead. I doubt it would move.
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 3:47 pm    Post subject: Re: P/S Pump Suction Hose Reply with quote

Bassyaks wrote:
Has anyone relocated their P/S pump to avoid the suction hose that is in the kit,


That hose is low pressure. I used a piece of blue silicon hose. Works great and very flexible.
I also had a new short pressure hose made. Pretty inexpensive. My original died when it rubbed on the muffler.
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buildyourown
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 3:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bassyaks wrote:
Your picking up the incoming air from the bottom of the airbox . correct?
So the Cobra head is supporting the whole weight of the airbox?
doesn't it bounce around, is there enough room under it to get sufficient air flow?
I know when we used to "strap" the intake inlets on the turbo cars to keep them from blowing off under boost, are you doing something similar or is the hose clamp doing all of the work?


I just switched to the new Cobra head intake. I was running the 2010 intake for the last 3 yrs. The box just fits hole in engine compartment. The weight of the box is sitting on the shelf. I may be getting some tire spray up in there but so far no issues.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 29, 2015 10:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the complete air box with the resonator , I removed the light assembly and made a soft mount allowing for motor torque and Cobra head stress.
Getting ready to fire it up. I'll have some pictures soon on the stuff I did different from the manual
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JudoJeff
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bassysaks,
I forgot to mention that the cobrahead often needs to be trimmed with a razor blade where it attaches to the TB. It can stick up so high it hits the lid over the engine.

Very interested in seeing your install and how you modified things!
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1989 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Burned up on 7/31/16.
1987 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig & Rebuilt, sold
1986 Vanagon GL Westfalia Camper, Bostig Sold May 10, 2021
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alnvilma
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 7:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My cobra head touches the lid insulation but just barely and helps to keep things snug. My air box rattled like hell in the hole but a little block of semi-rigid foam wedged under the bottom, cured all the vibration.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 8:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The Cobra head found it's way to the belt sander and I removed 1 #32 hose clamps worth and used a 2nd hose clamp as a guide, I heated the Cobra head and fitted it to the throttle body, I sealed it with Seal-All.
Seal-All is great stuff, it works with everything from weather striping to Gas tanks, I use it on all my water and gas lines, it's one of few sealants rated for fuel, it's better than 518 and Goop which are not rated for fuel
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bostig
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Guys,

So for the last two pages or so I can offer some notes. (I'm packing up bassyaks and other HCOPs to ship today so don't have much time to wade through but I thought I needed to chime in)

On engines:

- DO NOT BUY A CAR - Subaru guys must do this, you don't have to. You'll add 50+% more time/effort to the process, it isn't documented, and there's zero upside! Subaru guys need to buy donors to get the harness, ECU and matching engine. The engines are more expensive, have a higher probability and severity of problems. Zetecs do not. If you get a zetec with good crankshaft endedplay (under .009") it's a winner. There's less than .5% chance you'll have problems with the engine itself from a yard over 520+ instances. This compared to GW rebuilds at 10x that risk with 5%. Hearing the engine will tell you nothing other than it sounds good. BTW a higher mile zetec typically sounds better at idle than a crate engine, not as tight, and lower dynamic compression, but the lifters should make more ticking noises. ANYHOW... please don't buy a whole car, unless your really like to mess with tool, cars, and grease. It will gain you nothing.

- Airbox/intake. The airbox should fit snugly into the opening behind the driver's taillight, but not completely, the inlet holes will not be occluded. Unles you live out west (much finer diatom sands etc) or you drive mostly offroad you should find you don't need a snorkel. Brady and I drive cape beaches all summer and mud/dirt in fall and don't have issues.. but it's subject to where you drive! The weight/movement of the box isn't a big issue as the engine doesn't displace very much because of the beefy hydraulic mounts. It dips on hard acceleration the most, so if you're turning your van into a street racer, you will need to do something... but that will be the least trouble you are going to have. No adhesive needed but interested to find out what bassyaks will get over time.

-PS hose - I've had a couple different projects to change this over the years, but the result I keep coming back to is... bottom line is that this setup is safe and effective if the reservoir isn't already cracked or too brittle/old. New reservoirs are not expensive. Don't forget to change the filter, yes there's a filter in the res! PS is tricky and aside from old fuel lines, the next possible fire hazard to be aware of. PS fluid spraying on the manifold can ignite, and burn all kinds of things you don't want burned.

That is all for now. Nice to see folks helping each other here, and folks thinking about the whys and hows.

Cheers,
Jim
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turbotransporter
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 11:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've been watching this thread, keeping quiet but wondering WTF is going on with Bassyaks Bostig conversion? I've done three Bostig conversion over a 5 year span and all three combined, I didn't have anywhere near the issues that seem to be slowing Bassyaks down...

Yes, I get that everyone has a different mechanical aptitude/skill level, different work space, tools, time allotments, etc, etc, but as a loyal and very satisfied Bostig customer and will all due respect to Bassyaks, folks need to know that the Bostig Conversion System WORKS! And it has worked for 100's of other very satisfied Bostig customers, period.

The Bostig Conversion install manual is awesome and unmatched by any other engine conversion option. Yes, it has evolved (thank goodness!) and there are a few updates and changes that may require clarification but Bostig has provided a web site with answers and a proven, reliable ticket system for accessing all the information nessisary to succesfully complete the conversion.

In addition, Bostig has produced a number of videos that back up the written instructions and very clearly demonstrate a number of conversion steps that might not read well in print. (btw, my wife loves Brady's "sexy" voice). I've watched the videos a number of times before starting a conversion AND I cue them up when I'm in the shop working on that step so I can refresh my memory. Me like.

Furthermore, Jim answers his own telephone. (What? Yeah, I said that!) I'm convince that Jim is a Vampire that requires no sleep. I'm on the West Coast and 3 hrs behind the Bostig World Headquarters but 95% of the times that I needed input (usually something that I had access to but overlooked), Jim (or Brady in 2010) either answers the phone or calls back shortly.

I am living/breathing/driving proof that the Bostig Conversion System simply works!

Again, with all due respect to Bassyaks, I'm convinced that there's something way out of the ordinary going on in his shop. The Samba is a great resource for sure but after personally experiencing how great Bostig's customer support is, I'm shaking my head wondering what 5th dimention of hell poor Bassyaks is going though.

This is absolutely NOT a dig or criticism aimed at Bassyaks! I am truly bewildered and really quite concerned about what he is going through. If I lived closer I would haul my (Bostig powered Twisted Evil ) ass and tools over to his place and live in his driveway until his conversion was complete. (Ask around, I AM that guy!)

Hang in there Bassyaks! Very Happy
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 12:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My kit is basically done, it was done in 5 nights after work.I've been waiting on parts from Bostig, they went out today. Why my questions, Because I'm planning ahead and exploring different scenarios when I'm not working on it.
Many of the installs I've seen look like CRAP! I'm changing the way some things setup to my liking which make more sense to me.
I've done this type of installations on VERY high end vehicles when working for Callaway Engineering .
When my van is done and cleaned I'll post pictures of what I did.


Last edited by Bassyaks on Sat Oct 31, 2015 10:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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nwmarco
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

Happy to share my air box mod with anyone who is interested. I have a 1986 Westy Weekender without AC. I modified the air box so it would sit in the space behind the passenger taillight and interface with the existing snorkel. I also added sound deadening foam to the snorkel. Purrs like a kitten.

My engine had 75k miles on it and runs great (8k miles and 2 trips from Seattle to Burning Man), although I am now leaking oil from somewhere. Hopefully it is just some bolts that need tightening.

I would question their standards and motivation if anyone that said my install looks like crap. I get many compliments on how 'clean' it looks.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1141496

I am not an experienced mech, but with the kind assistance of TurboTransporter (aka Andrew) was able to complete the install in more or a less a weekend - including new cooling and fuel systems.
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you mentioned that Wink
But it ran like a Graped Ape
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Get off the forum the Coates Family is waiting for their van Razz


Last edited by Bassyaks on Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:33 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bassyaks
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 2:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco those parts no longer come with the kit

Dylan what's there to warranty??
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bostig
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 30, 2015 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well this thread went a different direction.. anyhow...

Bassyaks is coming from a different perspective. Callaway is a completely different type of auto aftermarket operation. Power, bragging rights, and bling are what sell Callaway. Reliable, maintainable, low cost, longevity is what sells Bostig.

For instance if you put 500 of their C4 twin turbo vettes out there instead of their 180 or whatever it was, and put daily or long haul drivers behind that wheel that weren't car guys, the number of problems that would turn catastrophic would be extremely high, if it was Bostig I would have lost the business. It's a totally different animal, with way different requirements from all angles. Bassyaks perspective shows him lot's of flaws, he sees install pics a certain way, that's fine. The results show that the system is proven, and I'll tell you right now, I care more about go than show (show is nice if you can get it without adding cost just for it) because I'm from Boston. Value of show is reduced in the long run to a guy like me, because I use my stuff, it will rot out with the salt, so why waste my money? It's funny because the east/west coast auto cultures reflect this. As does east/west coast stand up comedy as an aside ha. Trumpery (google the definition and have a laugh BTW) has no place in the Bostig philosophy.

I've said it before, if you're into travelling and using the vanagons (most of us) DO NOT get sucked into becoming a car guy. The learning curve is steep, and until you have a handful of expensive failures, you won't understand what you should never have touched until it's too late. I sell a system that has the lowest number of failure points, the lowest probabilities of failure of that lower point count, and the least severe consequences of failures of those points. It's risk management 101.

I designed for Brady, and other vanagon folks, and plowed what I learned into the production model along the way. Aside from having the only production model of any kind in the space, it's several generations in, and it works. People can question and make changes etc all they like, and I'm always open to hearing about it because I learned long ago not to take it personally (or try). But I stand by what I deliver, and people's opinions about things are subjective. Take everyone's with a grain of salt, and certainly don't take it personally if you can avoid it.

Cheers,
Jim
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