Lost my 30 PICT-1 Fast Idle Plate Roll Pin...

[Warren]

Does anyone know what size roll pin to get, and the best place to look for one?

Not mine but here is a picture showing a missing pin for clarification:

Thanks!
_________________
Warren in San Diego
1967 Beetle Sunroof Sedan

[gt1953]

Simple repair for VW people. Get a small nail that will fit the hole. Cut it to length and then mix up some handy dandy JB weld. I think you get the picture. This worked for me.
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[slalombuggy]

I think either a 1/2" or 3/4" finishing nail fits.

brad

[Warren]

Great thanks - A nail it is!
_________________
Warren in San Diego
1967 Beetle Sunroof Sedan

[Johnous]

Split pins are available at ACE hardware stores in many sizes, and that is where I got mine when I rebuilt the carb. JB Weld provides some additional insurance, but if the hole in the carb is still okay then the split pin will work well on its own. I managed to fill the area in with JB Weld, grind down and drill a new hole, and insert a slightly larger split pin.

This pin fell out on my 66 during my morning commute - wide open throttle at 7:30 gets your blood going! Luckily I found it in the engine compartment and replaced it.

[EverettB]

[Warren]

[61SNRF]

Originals are a split roll pin, but most likely a metric size. Think you might need a 1/16" for closest match on an early carb.

The hole in the carb does wear from the weight of the cam resting on it, and eventually it can get wobbled out and typically that's why the pin falls out.
If you don't have the old pin to measure it can be hard to tell.

If you find you need to install a larger roll pin, be sure it's not too big because it's most important that it clears the slot in the fast idle cam throughout the cam's full range w/o binding or sticking.

If the hole in your carb body looks distressed, you can take the fast idle cam off and gently peen some of the soft metal back into place with a small flat head punch to cold forge the base metal and make the hole smaller for a tighter fit.

As mentioned a small finishing nail works well too, and for a long term repair JB Weld the best sized pin in if the hole is too oblong or distorted to hold it very tight.
_________________
-Bruce

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

[Warren]

[glutamodo]

[Warren]

Just to follow up even the 1/8" roll pin was too large.

Ended up trimming a brad nail for a friction fit and put it in with a touch of JB Weld.
_________________
Warren in San Diego
1967 Beetle Sunroof Sedan

[gt1953]

Should be fine and dandy!
_________________
Volkswagen: We tune what we drive.
Numbers Matching VW's are getting harder to find. Source out the most Stock vehicle and keep that way. You will be glad you did.

72 type 1
72 Squareback
({59 Euro bug, 62, 63, 67, 68, 69, 73 type ones 68 & 69 type two, 68 Ghia all sold})

[1967_Beetle]

Way too late, I know...

First, not all pins fall out. In my experience they are more likely to have broken off flush with the carb body. If the pin is broken you will need to drill it out (I use a 1mm drill bit and my fingers - I avoid using an electric drill).

I have needed to replace a few of these pins over the years. I found nails and screws are not really the best way to go in the long term as the carb body is so soft and the nail/screw is normally made from a much harder material (the hole in the carb can quickly get bigger... much bigger).

I have found the best way to do is to fabricate a replacement pin from a piece of brass (usually from a broken electrical appliance/fitting - here in the UK, pieces from inside light fittings are good).

You need a piece of brass, a Dremel type tool, a grindstone and/or sandpaper.

Identify a cylindrical piece of brass that is around 15mm long (bear in mind you may have to cut terminals or something else off the cylinder to get the bit you need) and about 3mm wide.

Once you have the cylinder of brass put it in the chuck of a Dremel type tool - about 7mm in the chuck and 8mm out the front (this is for the part of the pin that sticks out of the carb body). Turn the Dremel on and use the grindstone or sandpaper to gradually reduce the diameter of the spinning piece of brass. Go slowly, try to keep the diameter of the exposed pin equal along its length and check the diameter frequently (against the fast idle plate slot).

Once you've reduced the exposed brass reduced to the correct diameter turn the brass in the chuck and do the same for the other end (checking against the hole in the carb body).

You now have a pin that is exactly the right diameter, but too long (probably on both ends). Brass is soft and the pin can easily be sanded to the correct length (taking the right amount off each end).

I usually create a pin with a wide shoulder between with element that goes into the carb body and the bit that protrudes. This should rests on the outside of the hole it gives the pin more lateral strength - in theory this should reduce the chance of further wear to the body.

My pins are usually a snug fit, but I still use a slither of epoxy glue just to make sure.

I usually polish the exposed part of the pin and leave the rest rough (helps the glue to create a bond)

It usually takes me less than an hour to make a pin and I've never had to replace one of the pins I've made for a second time.