Eurovan defrost capabilities? Mine seems weak

[markcm2]

I have a 1993 eurovan and I’m noticing that the defrost system seems under designed. There are only two small vents in the dash and they only seem to work in the one setting for defrost which pretty much turns all the other vents off.

I also notice that the passenger side seems to have better airflow than the driver’s side vent.

My fan is squeaky and I have a new replacement so at some point I expect I’ll be pulling the dash to replace the fan and I can better inspect the ducting.

Is “weak defrost” a known issue with these early eurovans?

I’m also noticing that I get a lot more heat out of the rear-cabin vent than I do out of the front of the van. I have a fresh water pump and t-stat, temp is coming up to about 80c (according to vagcom) and I’ve vacuum filled my system plus burped it at the firewall by holding the expansion tank up and then cracking the seal on the heater core to allow any air out along with a bit of coolant burp. Both of the heater in/out hoses seem to get hot so it seems as though there is flow through it. I did run some prestone flush through before the last coolant change but I did not hose-flush the heater core. I've got pleny of foam blowing out of the vents too. Any ideas here? If I pull the dash should I just replace the heater core while Im in there? (I have 148k on the van).

[Joshwa]

I've got my dash apart in my 93 EV right now. When I pulled it out, all the sealing foam between the glass and dash just crumbled out. There are foam seals around a few of the other vents as well and they were in bad shape also. I had some foam blowing out of the vents occasionally as well. You can expect that you will likely be trying to replace the foam as well. I'm not sure what I'll be using yet myself.
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93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[markcm2]

Thanks Josh, it looks like I'm just up the road from you as well, in Bellingham. It also looks like you've removed the black vinyl from the hood on your EV, that's one of the first things I did.

I'll have to see what it looks like when apart but we have a local hardware store called Hardware Sales (well known around this area for being a trap for guys because they have everything x2), they've got a good selection of adhesive back open and closed cell foams.

If you need parts, there is a guy in Auburn with a back yard full of eurovans, he's quite knowledgeable and hooked me up with some really good prices. I've got his number and I think he advertises on CL with a "parting out $5) ad

Do you have any tips for the dash removal, or links to DIY and such?

Cheers,
Mark

[gakali]

There was another thread on here recently regarding the foam issue and pics were posted. Big holes in the doors under the missing/deteriorated foam negatively affect air flow direction and temperature blend. I would replace it with the paper backed foil tape designed for the HVAC industry.

Here's the link:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=642230
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Why do it? Because you can.

1999 Eurovan
2003 A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro
1992 W201 190e 2.3 Mercedes
2006 W220 S600 V12 Twin Turbo 5.5 Mercedes

[DenverB]

^ yup.

your problem is the heater box under the dash -- it's mixing cold air and hot air when it shouldn't be due to the foam inside the box deteriorating. See the photos in the thread above...

FWIW, the rear heaters always blow hotter than the front in these things -- even when the front is blowing perfectly hot.
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[Mr Brown]

You don't need to remove the dash to change the fan, or do any cutting. Just loosen the dash side bolts, bolt in engine compartment, remove lower center dash panels and glovebox, remove cruise control module with mounting bracket, remove bolts holding dash cross member(at corners). Then remove bolts holding fan to plenum and bolts holding fan to fan housing. Pull fan housing out then pull back on dash/ cross member assembly until you have enough room to pull out the motor/impeller. Have done it twice recently this way, last time took me 30 min. Take my advice and avoid Febi blower motors, junk.

[markcm2]

[Joshwa]

[markcm2]

I had my instrument cluster out today and could see that the top of the heater box had a massive gap between it and the defrost ducting, about 3/4". There was clearly some deteriorated foam as well but what I am wondering is if things are out of alignment or if there should be a gap this big at the rear edge of this junction?

[Joshwa]

I had replaced that foam when i took my dash off. When I reinstalled the dash, looking in through the opening for the cluster, I could see that my new foam was snug up against the dash duct that it mates to. I would say that there shouldn't be any gap or you will have some leakage when using any of the upper vents.
_________________
93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[markcm2]

What did you use for the foam there?

It doesn't look like my dash has been apart before yet the gap is tight on the front side and at least 3/4" on the back side. The box it sturdy although it almost looks like its not in the correct position due to this weird alignment.

And you had your whole dash off, correct? I like the idea of quicker but I'm worried that as my first time, if I don't take the dash off to see what all is going on in there I might not get it all patched up correctly.

[Joshwa]

Yes, i've had the dash off. For better or worse, I used the 1"(?) window AC foam that you can pick up at home improvement stores. i put it up along where the front of the van meets the underside of the dash. and on that ducting. I used spray adhesive to get it to stick.

If you pull your dash out, you will tear apart the foam that seals the dash to the front of the van. That foam is crumbly by now and for some reason will then turn to a sticky goo if it warms up. Same goes for the ducting foam. It will get into your carpet and your floors if it gets onto your shoes. Be cautious to not just chuck it to the ground. I used the same AC foam to replace that front seal.

Also, this is good opportunity to check to see if the blend door is still got something in place over the large holes in it. If that has deteriorated, then you can easily fix it.

When I removed my dash, I worked from the right side to the left, removing everything that hangs from the dash towards the floor. Remove steering wheel. Remove the instrument cluster. Remove fasteners that hold the dash to the frame, including the bolt or two in the engine compartment. Disconnect all the center control electric items. Disconnect left side electrics. Pull all the vent grills out. Disconnect the speaker wires. This was on a 93.
_________________
93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[Joshwa]

Have this picture of my dash apart. My ducting foam wasn't too bad. The stuff up front came apart in random spots though.

_________________
93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[markcm2]

I have my dash out, it wasn't that bad, I'd say about an hour or two to get it out and replace my HVAC fan motor; I just wish I had of paid a little more attention when actually lifting it out as a broke a little clip or two which I could have avoided had I been more attentive.

Now, should I replace my heater core as a preventative measure?

It looks like my heater box is missing most of the clips so maybe it has been out before although the heater core doesn't look like its been removed before nor the dash. I have 150k on the van. I don't mind the $40, I just want to put it back together rather than wait a week for the part.

I don't see many issues regarding heater core failure and I suppose I know how to get to it now if needed in the future.

What are your thoughts, do any of you replace as a preventative measure?