Tastefully removing the cargo floor heater log

[iamdonquixote]

I've put a few of these back in buses , but I'm going to take one out. Whats the cleanest way to do this? I want to route the heat up front, any one have pics of how they did this/

thanks

[j.pickens]

Certainly not the way VW did it in original kombis. The Y tubes are quite a bit smaller in cross section than the main heater tube running to the front. An old furnace guy I knew said you NEVER put larger ductwork after a reduction in cross section in a forced hot air system.
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[campingbox]

[life long VW]

Hey DonQ, I'd be interested in the one you are removing. Mine's gone. Let me know. No hurry. thanks
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in order
55 sunroof / sema bug
60 23 wndo deluxe safari microbus https://youtu.be/anajRR57nPI
66 21 wndo deluxe microbus
59 bug
63 kombi w/ SO-22 westy
66 squareback
59 logoed standard bus Orangevale Baptist Church
58 PG/SG sunroof /safari standard
94 golf
2013 Bettle TDI (cheater)

[Stanagon]

I took one out, once. I was saving the log. The bus floor ends up pretty mangled.

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[brettsvw]

[otis_bartleh]

I ran the heat from both sides up front in my standard. I just knocked the cap off the Y at the back and ran flexible exhaust pipe from the heater box to the Y, and wrapped it with insulation. I can grab a pic in a bit. It looks like a low point but its not, and have had no problems, even on rough off road...

I still have the heater log wrapped with a plastic bag and taped off under my rear seat, but should cap the pipe to it... Of course it doesn't look even close to stock underneath, and its hidden by my rear seat/bed inside, but I don't care, and it works well...
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'59 Mango Bus
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'69 Bug

[j.pickens]

[Clara]

I don't really get the idea of converting to all heat up front. Under you will be rocking a cab divider. Yes there will be quicker window defogging, but you don't actually get more heat into the bus. Actually, probably you get less heat, as the air cools as it runs through the tube under the bus.
In the kombi I get a cool draft at the back of my neck that I don't get in the deluxe.

If your bus is drafty I guess you don't feel the heat from the back as much, but it seems a bit of a hassle. Anyway, just some thoughts. carry on.

hm, maybe you use your bus like I use the kombi and often have the entire back packed with stuff so the heat doesn't flow into where people are.
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[iamdonquixote]

[otis_bartleh]

[Clara]

I put a westy bed in the back of my 61 deluxe.
I cut a hole in the bottom of the bed and left the door off.
One bonus feature of this is that when I drive to the campsite with the heat on, the bed is pre-warmed.

I guess if you don't want to hack the board at the bottom of the bed, I would slit the supports and slid it in.

The 61 deluxe does not have as much defog as the 66 kombi (smaller heat tube, half heat to the front) but it still defogs.
Seems my buses have a certain amount of perforations to let the heat out, except the 56 westy. It is amazing how the heat is better without drafts. Plus the gas heater really eliminated the cold draft from the back when the bus was perforated.

You could rivet patches on the front floor till you get around to doing it right.

A PO did this to my kombi:

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[Schwing]

Sounds like you are basically wanting to take the bus configuration and convert to a single cab configuration since there is no heat routed to the fuel tank/treasure chest area.

I have my original crusty heater Y pipe and if you pay for shipping I can send it to you as a template. I paid a shop about $55 to do the bends for me.

Basically what I did was use a brand new Alan Schofield small Y intersection and then I had a local repair shop bend exhaust tubing to the same parameters, and it fit and looks the part, since no one reproduces this section.

Here is the rusty original Y next to the new small Y intersection from Alan Schofield

And here is the pipe the shop made. Its not perfect but it fit nicely and does the trick once tacked in place.

I cut a nice square access area out to allow room to fit the pipe, which is what you will need to do since your floor is already in place. I cut around the corrugation to make the butt weld easier. If you were replacing your floor you would do the pipe first and then lay the floor on top.

Then weld it back up. Its not exactly perfect but with an SO42 you'd never see it.

Thats just what I did, thought I would share since its essentially what you are trying to accomplish.

[otis_bartleh]