Ford front heater valve.

[chris garrett]

My local Napa had both of the valves in stock (1140 and 1141). As stated, they flow in two different directions, othewise they are the same. What I cannot understand is how you got them to work correctly with the dash control. Do all Vanagons slide the lever right for heat? If so what's the trick to make these work correctly. When you slide the lever to the right, you would be closing these two valves.
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'89 Vanagon, 2.5 Subaru

[FNGRUVN]

I don't know about all Vanagons, but mine moves to the right for heat. I don't remember which valve I bought, but I don't think it matters since you can remove the cable bracket and mount it to the other side of the valve. I might be wrong, though.

Does your valve setup look like my pictures?
_________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

[chris garrett]

Yes, it moves to the right for heat. I suppose they all do. I finally have it figured out, but I bent the hell out of the cable experimenting with different configurations. I ordered a new cable, but at least I know how to do it now.
You had mentioned that you notched the dash cover. Was that for the cable to fit? My dash is off right now, so I'm not sure how it will all go together.
Thanks for your help.
Chris
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'89 Vanagon, 2.5 Subaru

[FNGRUVN]

The valve lever will hit the plastic cover. You'll see what I mean when you slide it in place and then slide the heat control to the right. I think I used a hole saw to cut just enough material to clear the lever. You can't see the hole unless you really look for it.

I like the idea of placing the valve here for a couple of reasons. It will be really easy to replace in the future and being inside the van and out of the elements, I might not ever have to replace it.

I'll just let the picture do the talking.

_________________
"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

[chris garrett]

Thanks for your help FNGRUVN. Appreciate the picture.
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'89 Vanagon, 2.5 Subaru

[djkeev]

I utilized this valve, very happy with it's installation and function.......

[phoosty]

Hi all, newbie-lurker here with a first post:
Wanted to thank the OP and all other contributors to this thread for guiding me through this fix. Replaced an original VW valve on my '85 Westy with the 660-1441 yesterday, in the stock location, using the OP's approach. No other modifications whatsoever, and works like a charm. Only cost 30 bucks and the skin from two knuckles.
I did want to ask about purging the bit of air that must have gotten into the heater core. It's been mentioned that this will 'self-purge', but doesn't the top of the heater core sit above the top of the radiator? Does the coolant circulation really get this air to either the radiator or the coolant reservoir where it can be bled?
The heater seems to function (mostly) normally on initial testing, it seems just a bit cooler than before the fix (hot, but not *really* hot).

[djkeev]

Yes, it self purges. Run it with the heater on, the air is such a small amount it will move out and be expelled from a properly operating sealed system.

Dave
_________________
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Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[chris garrett]

Dave,
I'm going to copy what you did. My only concern is cutting the hose to take out the bend. I have to check and see if I have enough slack in the heater hose coming in to take up the missing piece. If I pull the hose from the engine too tight, it can interfere with the automatic shift linkage.
I ordered rounded pliers. I hope I can copy your expert loops. I've never used rounded pliers before, do you have any tips on using them?
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'89 Vanagon, 2.5 Subaru

[djkeev]

I did have the luxury of new heater hose front to rear so yes, carefully look at your available length before cutting.

Another option is to put it in the cab as shown.

No real words of wisdom about round nose pliers.

Practice on some paper clips first, they are more pliable and you can get a technique developed before attacking your heater cable.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[chris garrett]

Dave,
I pretty much copied what you did and something is wrong. The control lever for the heat only moves half way. No matter how I adjust things the movement of the new valve does not equal a complete movement of the lever. I put 2-3 loops in the wire. What did I do wrong?
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'89 Vanagon, 2.5 Subaru

[Paulbeard]

Hmm, I had the same issue with the lever travel not matching the value's movement. And now the valve (installed less than a year ago) has quit working. It's stuck open (passing hot coolant to the core) and the lever just turns and turns. Not sure I want another of these. Did I break it by pushing the dash control lever too far or was it just crappy?

If these are a standard size or close enough that the clamps will seal it, I may try a more reputable brand.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[RichBenn]

I used this valve. Spent forever going back and forth between underneath the van and the front panel adjusting both positions. Now, months later, getting ready for a trip, it seems to be letting heat in. Aargh!

I think someone sourced a real German version of the factory valve, not the Meyle Chinese one that goes for $5.95. It went for big bucks, but it would have been SO worth it.
_________________
Rich

[Howesight]

I tried brand new VW heater valves and aftermarket units as well. For me (others seem to have had better luck), there was always some leakage and at least some heat bleeding through.

So, I kept the Vanagon heater valve as is, but I added a second heater valve (normally closed configuration) that is on/off, (no in-between position), and installed it very close to the engine. Works great. The heater control valve is from Nostalgic Air Conditioning (NAC), part number 77-3005. Mine was all metal, but their catalogue now shows a metal/plastic unit:

http://nostalgicac.com/controls-motors/heater-valv...rated.html

The NAC valve is normally open and is closed by manifold vacuum. I attached the vacuum chamber to manifold vacuum through a vacuum hose that is interrupted by a Toyota vacuum control valve. The Toyota vacuum control valve is found doing many jobs on many Toyota vehicles (early 1980's to late 1990's), both controlling AC "idle up" and other vacuum functions. I had one sitting around.

The vacuum valve is powered by 12 volts and I connected it to a micro-switch on the heater control lever inside the dash so that when the heater lever is pushed all the way to the left, the switch is connected, powers the Toyota vacuum valve to close, which cuts the vacuum to the heater valve, which then closes under its own spring pressure.

Since doing this, I get no hot (or even warm) air out of my heater box, even in the hottest weather.

Here is a pic showing the installed NAC heater valve. The yellow arrows point to the heater hose. The green arrow points to the lever on the NAC heater valve. The blue arrow points to the vacuum can on the NAC heater valve.

Here is a pic showing the Toyota electrically-operated vacuum switch. The red and green arrows point to the vacuum lines to manifold vacuum and to he NAC heater valve, respectively. The yellow arrow points to the electrical connector. The blue arrow shows the tiny air filter that Toyota uses to keep dirt out of the vacuum system. Note that the VW "idle up" valves used on 1983.5 to 1985 Vanagons for AC and power steering idle speed increase would also do the job and can be found here and there.

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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[djkeev]

I haven't any operational issues with my Ford Valve.

I also installed TK's in line manual shut off valve to absolutely prevent any hot water flow into the heater core.

Very happy with my setup!

Lubrication of the cables and proper cable housing/ operating cable alignment is critical for smooth ooeration.

Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Paulbeard]

I just ordered the Balkamp (NAPA part 6601140) and will see if I can swap it in tomorrow. It will replace an in-cab switch behind the vent shroud.

It's 4-5 times the cost of the generic valve I put in a few months back and I am hopeful it is more durable. The TK shutoff is an option as well but that will come later, probably in tandem with a rear heater delete.
_________________
Currently -> Frida: 87 Tizian Red (mostly) Vanagon GL Westfalia w/ 2.0L ABA conversion
Formerly -> Steward of a 73 Super Beetle (Beater) and 67 Beetle 1300 (Little Max) both names by POs

[sped372]

After noticing some drips under the spare tire pan, I've joined the 1141 revolution. Thanks for the tip!
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1971 Karmann Ghia - 1600 DP
1984 Westfalia - 1.9 WBX

[dobryan]

I used the valve inside and was able to zip tie the control cable to it with no cable modification at all. The cable only travels about 3/4 of the previous throw so the lever does not go all the way to the right when it is full on, no big deal.

_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[djkeev]

On my 1990 I installed the Ford heater control valve.

It seems my FLAPS sold me a 4seasons 74827 valve.
5/8” connections and pull on.

This is a NON BLEEDER valve,
The fluid flow comes from the end without the operating cable clamp support

All Summer long I've been battling a hot heater core!
There is little worse than heat on a 94° sunny day!

I ended up clamping the hoses off to stop the flow.

I was disappointed to say the least about this internal leakage!
Then it occurred to me...... "Are these flow direction specific?"

Upon close examination they are!
And the coolant flow through my 74827 is backwards!

My hot coolant comes up out of the floor, through the valve and into the heater core.
Heater flow on the 2.1 is from the coolant distribution tower off the right head and then to the heater valve/valves.
Even with the return clamped blocking the return path coolant somehow bypasses the valve and warms the heater core.

So the 4 season 74828 flows in the opposite direction.
The in port is the end with the cable clamp plate. Just the opposite of my 74827.
I need a 74828 valve.

Heavy sigh........

Needless to say........ I just ordered a 74828 valve.

Physically they are identical valves from the outside.
I don't know what makes a difference on the rotating interior seals but I can only guess it is how the lips of the seal lie upon the rotating ball.
Are they being forced open by the coolant flow rather than forced tighter against the rotating ball..... aka closed?


Dave
_________________
Stop Dead Photo Links how to post photos

Ghia
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=392473

Vanagon
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6315537#6315537

Beetle
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=482968&highlight=74+super+vert

[Wildthings]