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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4097 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 12:41 am Post subject: Re: My Bostig RG6 install |
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I just wanted to share how I connected the fuel tank evap system to my latest Bostig install.
Start by drilling a 1-1/4" hole through the firewall, clean up and paint.
These are the bits I used to connect to the air box. They are basically just plastic irrigation parts, but I'm sure there are brass bits out there that might look better.
Drill and tap a 10-32 hole for the small nipple. Use a bit of glue for a tight vacuum fit.
Add a short length of vac hose to the fitting and one of the Zetec intake manifold ports.
Connect the hard plastic vent lines from the evap valve.
Add a 18" piece of 1/2" hose to the valve and feed through the firewall grommet and attach to the evap canister.
And no more gas fumes venting into the air!
_________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
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turbotransporter Samba Member
Joined: February 19, 2006 Posts: 459 Location: Bainbridge Island WA
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Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:06 am Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 install |
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Thank you. I've been planning to do this and connecting the airbox to the stock snorkel but haven't found the time to work out the details. You've saved me a lot of R&D time! |
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Signalocity Samba Member
Joined: February 13, 2012 Posts: 573
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Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 9:11 am Post subject: Re: My Bostig RG6 install |
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MsTaboo wrote: |
I just wanted to share how I connected the fuel tank evap system to my latest Bostig install. |
Tidy work as usual, nice. |
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4097 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 2:25 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 install |
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Thanks!
You may wonder why I bothered to move the evap valve from the passenger side of the engine compartment. Couple reasons. First off I wanted to move my overflow bottle to where the valve usually sits, and since I had dropped the fuel tank on the Syncro anyway for R&R I was able to route the new hoses where ever I wanted.(although you can do this using the existing small vent line) The new location for the valve on the driver's side also utilizes some holes that were drilled for the original Group 6 install (the overflow bottle used to be located there) and I liked the shorter path for the 1/2" hose and the vent lines. Makes more sense having it on the intake side.
My Zetec is not a usual RG6 install, it's a collection of upgrades from the Group 6 install from '09. It has the 2010 cooling system parts instead of the newer fill port tower. To add the bits to upgrade that part would have cost me close to $750! I've been real happy with my 2010 style cooling system. The addition of the sight glass/bleeder at the top of the hose eliminates any problems with air being trapped at the top of the loop. (thanks to Signalocity for that tip)
Moving the overflow bottle also gave me more room around the air box and left a clear path for the a/c hoses. _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
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mpl Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2015 Posts: 97
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Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:37 am Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 installs |
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dobryan wrote: |
Looks like a great time to fully remove the axles and clean, check, and regrease the CV joints. |
MsTaboo wrote: |
Absolutely, much easier to remove the inner CV bolts with the engine/transmission out of the way.
Repacking the CV joints is a messy job but pretty easy. Be sure to mark the axles for orientation and reinstall the same way they came out. |
MsTaboo and dobryan, taking your and insyncro’s advice, I’ve removed my (2WD) van’s axles to service the CVs. It seems that my CVs are original and haven’t gotten love in quite some time, so I’m just going to replace them, putting new GKN/Lobro CVs onto my original axles. Figured that it would be wise to do this before installing my freshly rebuilt transaxle!
Did you have any particular tricks for cleaning the CV grease from the outer cup (i.e., the cup on the wheel hub)? Given that it’s recessed in the metal box wrapped around the wheel hub, I was curious if you had a preferred way for doing this. Is it simply reaching in there with your arms and rags and wiping down the CV cup until the grease is gone? Did you use any sort of cleaner after wiping off the old grease, or is a thorough wipe-down sufficient?
Thanks! Noob question… |
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mpl Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2015 Posts: 97
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Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 10:43 am Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 installs |
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mpl wrote: |
I’ve removed my (2WD) van’s axles to service the CVs. |
Incidentally, ever wonder what it looks like to swap your CVs by bicycle? Here’s how for those of us Van-peeps that live in areas where our primary transportation is by bike, rather than car…
First, strap down your well-wrapped CVs and axles to a front porteur rack:
Then, load up your CV kits in a rear pannier:
Then ride very, very slowly and carefully to your friendly local Vanagon shop. I had to ask them to do the step of knocking off the old CVs and putting on the new ones because I don’t have access to a bench vise… The challenges of apartment living! |
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dobryan Samba Member
Joined: March 24, 2006 Posts: 16504 Location: Brookeville, MD
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Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 11:12 am Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 installs |
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[quote="mpl"]
dobryan wrote: |
It seems that my CVs are original and haven’t gotten love in quite some time, so I’m just going to replace them, putting new GKN/Lobro CVs onto my original axles. Figured that it would be wise to do this before installing my freshly rebuilt transaxle!
Did you have any particular tricks for cleaning the CV grease from the outer cup (i.e., the cup on the wheel hub)? Given that it’s recessed in the metal box wrapped around the wheel hub, I was curious if you had a preferred way for doing this. Is it simply reaching in there with your arms and rags and wiping down the CV cup until the grease is gone? Did you use any sort of cleaner after wiping off the old grease, or is a thorough wipe-down sufficient?
Thanks! Noob question… |
mpl, If your original CV joints show no pitting or other unusual wear I'd reuse them and not install new ones. The new parts have been a crap shoot as far as quality goes. If you already installed the new ones and your old ones were in good shape then keep them as spares.
I usually wipe out the outer flange as best as I can being especially careful not to add any grit in the process. You can get AR about cleaning it out, won't hurt at all. _________________ Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD
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MsTaboo Samba Member
Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 4097 Location: East Kootenay, British Columbia
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Posted: Mon Feb 29, 2016 12:00 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 install |
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I would not worry too much about degreasing the hub face, just get it clean. You can use PB Blaster, WD-40, or other such lubes to help clean it up. Mainly you don't want any grit. On that note, this is a good time to inspect/clean the inside of the trailing arm and maybe spray some rust prevention wax. (or more if needed) All this is much easier while the engine/trans are out!
I wait until the engine and transmission are back in the van before putting the axles back on, this leaves more room to install the big pieces.
One trick I use when reinstalling the outer CVs is to lay a piece of wax paper down inside the trailing arm. This gives a clean disposable surface to rest the CV/axle on while getting the screws started into their holes. And I use bungie cords to help support the axle while lining things up.
Good luck with your project! No fun doing a major install in a parking lot. (BTDT) _________________ Currently:
'90 Syncro Westy 3 knob w/Zetec
The information age has morphed into the age of disinformation and willful ignorance. Agnotology!
Help the fight against Truth Decay.
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mpl Samba Member
Joined: December 07, 2015 Posts: 97
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Posted: Sat Mar 12, 2016 4:45 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 install |
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MsTaboo and dobryan, thanks for your CV tips! |
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thasty07 Samba Member
Joined: May 16, 2014 Posts: 310 Location: Bend, OR
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Posted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:27 pm Post subject: Re: Bostig RG6 install |
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This is very timley as I just ripped out all our syncro fuel parts in prep for RG7 and I had no idea how to route the vent lines for the charcoal canister |
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