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Horns
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 10:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

My horn gives a little beep whenever I turn the steering wheel to the right. Seems like a loose connection or short...?

I want to check it out but am a bit intimidated. Never looked in the steering column before. Can anyone please post a picture with explanation (not wiring diagram) of what I'll see when I take the horn button off?

Thanks!
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Ron Domeck
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 9:50 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

What I said in your other post was to put more space between the wheel and the column. You did say it blew when you turned? If you had to turn the wheel to a certain spot it would be a ground in the steering box. Moving the column down a bite is an easy fix before you start tearing into the column.
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 23, 2016 10:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Ron Domeck wrote:
What I said in your other post was to put more space between the wheel and the column. You did say it blew when you turned? If you had to turn the wheel to a certain spot it would be a ground in the steering box. Moving the column down a bite is an easy fix before you start tearing into the column.


Thanks. I think I missed that comment earlier. I haven't touched the steering column until now so not entirely sure what to do. You said there were 2 bolts at the top? Below the steering wheel? And when you say to move the column down, do you mean to aim it more toward the seat (lower), or to move the whole column downward away from the dash?

From reading other threads here, I do agree that it seems like a grounding issue. Seems like the contacts for the horn are a common problem. Is there a convenient way to get a look at them? Can I just remove the middle part of the steering wheel?

Really appreciate all the help!
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Ron Domeck
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 6:29 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

The column tube is held on with 2 8mm bolts, 13mm wrench below the speedo panel. The column is sloted. You will be moving the tube only, not the steering wheel. The space between the column housing and the wheel should be about 1/8 in. You will be sliding the column down to the front of the car. The column will be hard to move because of the rubber seal at the firewall, bottom of tube. You may need to tap the tube at the bolt area. Pictures of the space at the wheel would help.
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tallman206
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:46 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

If the gap has closed, it usually doesn't do it without a reason. It might be prudent to look underneath at the condition of the circular rubber steering coupler disc. Our aging vehicles often have these parts disentigrate, will cause play in the steering column, not to mention a serious safety issue if it gives way.
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Ron Domeck
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Good point Jerry. Down on that end the coupler on the column side can be adjusted to move the steering wheel up. Pinch bolt could be loose from repairs such as a steering box replaced.
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Ron Domeck
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 24, 2016 7:58 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Stock or aftermarket steering wheel?
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jjrannauro
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

My Thing has the stock horn and "The Dixie" like General Lee from the Dukes of Hazzard".
I play it with a button (the red one) I installed on the dashboard.
I only use this one when I'm having fun on the country or off road
and I don't bug anybody. These are very loud.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is how I installed the horns on an aluminium bar using the bumpers brackts holes.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 11:57 am    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips, guys. Sorry I disappeared. We moved and I had absolutely no time for anything else for a while. But now I'm ready to get this horn issue resolved!

So, first things first. Pictures! This is what it looks like now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Now to loosed those bolts and try moving the column down as you suggested....

[/img]
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

tallman206 wrote:
If the gap has closed, it usually doesn't do it without a reason. It might be prudent to look underneath at the condition of the circular rubber steering coupler disc. Our aging vehicles often have these parts disentigrate, will cause play in the steering column, not to mention a serious safety issue if it gives way.


Can you describe exactly where is the circular rubber steering coupler disc? Inside the car at the firewall or underneath? What should it look like?
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Here's a photo from the gallery:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It looks like the photo was taken through the fuel tank opening (with the tank removed), but you can see this thing by looking through the driver's side front wheel arch.

The horn is grounded through the steering column when you press the button.
The steering column (shaft) is grounded to the chassis by a jumper wire (barely visible in this photo) between the opposing pieces bolted through the rubber coupler.

The rubber couplers wear out gradually, but the urethane couplers break apart all at once...so avoid the urethane couplers.

Good luck, Mondshine
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Thanks for that. I will look at the coupler on mine in a bit.

For now still trying to fix the horn that annoyingly beeps when I turn the wheel to the right. I THINK this is the gap I'm trying to enlarge:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Is that correct?
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mondshine
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 12:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Chech this photo:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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SomeThing
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 09, 2016 2:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

Yes! SUCCESS!

Thank you all for your help! Now I can drive without having other drivers get mad when they think I am honking at them for no reason.
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nemobuscaptain
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 23, 2019 7:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Horns Reply with quote

sjbartnik wrote:
74 Thing wrote:
How do you wire the relay in for the horn? Is it just to be sure you are getting a full 12v to the horn and not voltage drop?


The horn has a fairly high initial current when it cuts in so with VW's original method if the contacts get dirty or are otherwise poor, you can get a weak sound, off-tone sound, and not really proper activation if you don't really mash the horn button.

If you use a relay the horn button is only grounding the relay coil which is very low current so you get a much more "solid" horn activation via the relay and a bit more precise control of the sound you get out of it from a little toot to a full on blast that doesn't sound like a dying goose.

If you are going to use dual horns you definitely want to use a relay.

I used a 4-pin horn relay from a Ghia, wired sort of the opposite of the diagram above. I had already run a new 10ga wire from the battery under the dash to carry power for my H4 headlights so I just tapped off that and ran it to 30 on the horn relay. I made up a new wire from the horn position on the fuse box to 86 on the relay. I used the existing black/yellow wire to the horn on 87 on the relay. Then I made up a new brown wire from 85 and tied it into the existing horn ground wire at the T1 connector under the dash. So when you push the horn button you ground the relay coil which activates the relay.
r

I know this is old but if it's wired the way it shown in the diagram instead of the way this poster recommended, you're still sending the full 30 amps to the ground through the horn switch, correct? You want the relay to take the current off of the horn switch and the hot wire should be direct to the horn. Right?
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