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The Stupid Question Thread
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alman72
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 2:34 pm    Post subject: plastic cover behind petals? Reply with quote

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRzvO8hAyd8
at 3:40, what is that plastic cover? gas petal linkage cover? I havenever seen this before, but only have experience on my 73. is this a euro thing? late bay thing?
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 24, 2016 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: plastic cover behind petals? Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRzvO8hAyd8
at 3:40, what is that plastic cover? gas petal linkage cover? I havenever seen this before, but only have experience on my 73. is this a euro thing? late bay thing?

It's a RHD thing, notice where the gas pedal is?
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honeybus
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 7:37 am    Post subject: Is coil worth saving? Reply with quote

These are the readings on my ignition coil.

6.6 ohms at + to-

10.56 K ohms at + to primary.

I have been having the "bucking" issue, and I am replacing the coil with one that reads 3.0 and 8.0 K ohms.
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brandt
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 26, 2016 10:17 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

What's the average cost to convert to Subaru? With the bulk of the work DIY. Donor car, used engine... Hard to find $ in the build treads. This would potentially be a 77 Westfalia.
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Brian
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 9:15 am    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Somewhere between a lot, and a lot I'd guess. $20 - $30 maybe? Skills will tell ya
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 10:16 am    Post subject: Hupp Hadees heater? Reply with quote

saw an ad for a Hupp Hadees vw eurovan heater for an amazing price 50 bucks. Is this something anyone has don before into a bay?
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honeybus
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:39 am    Post subject: TS II Reply with quote

What reading shold a cylinder head temperature sensor show at 100 degrees Celsius?
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 11:42 am    Post subject: oil pressure sensor test Reply with quote

Is there a way to test an oil pressure sensor if taken out of the engine block?
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More than I need -
'78 Westy ... purchased 11 Dec 06 ($9,000); sand blasted/primered 7 Jan 07 ($1,200); body shop 3 Apr 07 ($2,000); paint shop 7 Nov 07 ($6,000); home 22 Apr 08; started TLC 28 Aug 08; got very first sign of life 8 Jun 2010; Run about 1,000 miles in Florida in May 2011; 1,600 miles road trip Orlando-Key West-Aldie Virginia 10-26 Mar 2020 (COVID-19 started)

Thanks for all the fish.
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Iain
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 12:10 pm    Post subject: Re: plastic cover behind petals? Reply with quote

alman72 wrote:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sRzvO8hAyd8
at 3:40, what is that plastic cover? gas petal linkage cover? I havenever seen this before, but only have experience on my 73. is this a euro thing? late bay thing?


It's a RHD post '76 IIRC pedal linkage bar cover.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 1:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Surprised

Last edited by airkooledchris on Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jim Bear
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 1:52 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

A few years back a fella in Florida did a crazy custom bus build with an Audi engine I think and crazy mods to the body. He sold it and I believe started another "stock" project that included a trailer made from a bay. Are you out there? Can anyone point me to that thread, other threads of his, or his Samba handle? Curious about the new build.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 2:23 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Ive never dealt with wheel bearings before.


Ive noticed that when I turn left im starting to get a low hum/growl from (what *sounds* like) the front right wheel.

If I take a gentle right turn the sound goes away, then gentle left turn and the sound is there again.

Does this point to it actually being the front wheel bearing making the sound, or should I be just as suspect that it's actually the rear wheel/s doing it and im just getting faked out from the drivers seat position?


Finally, these are some parts that the PO left behind for me when I bought this bus. Im looking through the manual, and it looks like I would also need new "spacer ring"s to complete this job, does that look right?

The boxes are febi/bilstein and the parts are all marked febi and 'Germany'

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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 3:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:

Does this point to it actually being the front wheel bearing making the sound, or should I be just as suspect that it's actually the rear wheel/s doing it and im just getting faked out from the drivers seat position?


Finally, these are some parts that the PO left behind for me when I bought this bus. Im looking through the manual, and it looks like I would also need new "spacer ring"s to complete this job, does that look right?



Your noise could be coming from the inner left bearing or the outer right. If you bearings are adjusted loose it could also be the rotor cocking a bit and the pads dragging. The spacer ring are rings the seals run against and unless damaged aren't typically replaced.
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skills@eurocarsplus
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 3:49 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

brandt wrote:
What's the average cost to convert to Subaru? With the bulk of the work DIY. Donor car, used engine... Hard to find $ in the build treads. This would potentially be a 77 Westfalia.


only the DIY'er could answer that....too many (and I mean far too many) variables to nail down a cost...

cost of donor

harness (diy or ship it out)

re gear trans

fuel tank refurb

paint engine bay...

new engine?

used engine?

t-belt kit?

the list is a mile long and an ocean wide. I know one place that gets 50K+, and another that is in the 20K range. so, it really all adds up to how nice do you want to spend.

and like most things in life, you may as well paint the bay/fix the tank/re bush the shift rod etc etc....a thrifty diy'er could do it for 5k or below IF they shop properly, and are not fussy on how it looks.

I could gaff up a bunch of things on my swaps, but I would never do it because a client would have a stroke if they got asked "you paid how much for that! and it looked like a junk yard took a shit in the engine bay.

but your average vw owner just wants it to "work" and doesn't care how it gets done. they don't care how well the conversion presents itself, as shown here

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=558012&highlight=subaru+conversion

not bagging the guys work, but holy hell I would raise an eyebrow if I saw that when someone popped the lid

so, to answer your question, there is no real answer to the whatsitcost question. everyone's budget and expectations vary wildly
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totallynotmelgibson
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

First time rebuild, inside of case looks strange to me? My brain jumped to possible damage in the casing. Sounds farfetched, but if someone wants to quell my worries, I appreciate it.

Pic is looking in #4 hole with piston removed

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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 5:58 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Totally Not Mel Gibson,

You can take a big sigh of relief

It's only the flashing from the mold that it was pulled from.

Yes, I just went out to the garage and looked at a GE case

Chris
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totallynotmelgibson
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Thanks, Chris. Mailing you a beer

Now if you want to make this ring compressor work, I'll ship you a keg


Last edited by totallynotmelgibson on Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:10 pm; edited 1 time in total
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old DKP driver
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:10 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Why 'Thank You Pale Ale will work.
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airkooledchris
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 6:54 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
airkooledchris wrote:

Does this point to it actually being the front wheel bearing making the sound, or should I be just as suspect that it's actually the rear wheel/s doing it and im just getting faked out from the drivers seat position?


Finally, these are some parts that the PO left behind for me when I bought this bus. Im looking through the manual, and it looks like I would also need new "spacer ring"s to complete this job, does that look right?



Your noise could be coming from the inner left bearing or the outer right. If you bearings are adjusted loose it could also be the rotor cocking a bit and the pads dragging. The spacer ring are rings the seals run against and unless damaged aren't typically replaced.


I've since realized that under harder right turns it's doing it also....

I asked about the spacer ring due to verbage in the yellow repair manual, which mentioned "always install new spacer ring with new seal. Drive seal in by tapping evenly all round with rubber hammer."

But after searching a bit I didn't see anyone selling that spacer ring nor could I locate the original part number from ETKA (just says no longer available.)
Bentley doesn't mention replacing it either.

Once it starts you really can't ignore it. I don't know how much time you have past the noise point, but it's begging to be dealt with already.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 27, 2016 7:37 pm    Post subject: Re: The Stupid Question Thread Reply with quote

airkooledchris wrote:
Wildthings wrote:
airkooledchris wrote:

Does this point to it actually being the front wheel bearing making the sound, or should I be just as suspect that it's actually the rear wheel/s doing it and im just getting faked out from the drivers seat position?


Finally, these are some parts that the PO left behind for me when I bought this bus. Im looking through the manual, and it looks like I would also need new "spacer ring"s to complete this job, does that look right?



Your noise could be coming from the inner left bearing or the outer right. If you bearings are adjusted loose it could also be the rotor cocking a bit and the pads dragging. The spacer ring are rings the seals run against and unless damaged aren't typically replaced.


I've since realized that under harder right turns it's doing it also....

I asked about the spacer ring due to verbage in the yellow repair manual, which mentioned "always install new spacer ring with new seal. Drive seal in by tapping evenly all round with rubber hammer."

But after searching a bit I didn't see anyone selling that spacer ring nor could I locate the original part number from ETKA (just says no longer available.)
Bentley doesn't mention replacing it either.

Once it starts you really can't ignore it. I don't know how much time you have past the noise point, but it's begging to be dealt with already.


Just jump in there and tear the hub down. It's a simple project. Get a brass punch and bearing race driver set since you haven't done this before. It will make it easier on ya. Get some good wheel bearing grease, pack the bearings and install them into your newly installed races.
When you go to adjust the bearing pre-load, you should follow the Bentley. Basically, you want to adjust the bearing load to about 0 ft. pounds. You should JUST be able to push the washer back and forth between the outer bearing and locking nut.
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