What Fuel Line size, fuel pump type are you running?

[Area56]

Hello all,

Some questions regarding fuel delivery on your performance motor. What size motor do you have and are you running stock fuel line size?

Are you running the mechanical or an electric fuel pump?

If running an electric pump, do you have an inertia switch to cut off power in the event of an accident? What kind?

Thank you!

[Dale M.]

Stock 6mm line with stock mechanical pump... Build is 2084 with dual Weber 44IDF...

IF you intend to run electric pump, I highly reccomend some sort of control....

http://revolutionelectronics.com/Fuel_Pump.html

Dale
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"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[Area56]

Dale,

Thanks for the heads up on the pump controller. I like those features with a circuit breaker and relay and reading the tach signal.

The cut off if no tach signal is good. Will reduce possibility of fuel spraying all over if something happens. I'm still inclined to think an inertia power cutoff switch would be helpful in case I crash and the engine is still running, but I don't want it to be like an old escort and cut my fuel when I hit a pothole!

[Dale M.]

I believe some FORDS had a inertia unit placed in trunk up under package deck area but not sure (brain says it was discussed here some years ago) ... No reason you could not use a inertia unit also... But then two unit may be over kill...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[e&m_ghia]

We've got a custom engine from various old & new parts, 1968cc but it can take a lot of fuel when we want it to… (Dual Weber 44's & DRD racing heads.)

We're still using a Holley electric pump (noisy) in front & pressure regulator in the back, from previous owner. Have a replacement for the Holley (supposed to be quieter), but wasn't going to put it in until/unless the Holley quits. So we figure the Holley will never quit.

Still using stock hard line in middle, but going through short stub from the hard-line to an Earl's filter in the back, and then oversized stainless-braided lines from there.

Using the Revolution cut-off, linked in Dale's post. A nice unit, and does what it's supposed to, when it doesn't see the tach signal.

[e&m_ghia]

We've got a custom engine from various old & new parts, 1968cc but it can take a lot of fuel when we want it to… (Dual Weber 44's & DRD racing heads.)

We're still using a Holley electric pump (noisy) in front & pressure regulator in the back, from previous owner. Have a replacement for the Holley (supposed to be quieter), but wasn't going to put it in until/unless the Holley quits. So we figure the Holley will never quit.

Still using stock hard line in middle, but going through short stub from the hard-line to an Earl's filter in the back, and then oversized stainless-braided lines from there.

Using the Revolution cut-off, linked in Dale's post. A nice unit, and does what it's supposed to, when it doesn't see the tach signal.

[madmike]

1915 & 2276
3/8 line and a Black Holley pump/red spring, Aeromotive return regulator return line al;so 3/8"
draw threw 40 or 45 dcoe also a Holley 4 barrel i'm gonna try
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[Cusser]

[ps2375]

2087cc w/ dual IDF 44's, a CIS filter upfront w/ a quiet electrical rotary pump drawing thru the filter feeding the stock line in the middle to -4 AN lines to the carbs.

[mcmscott]

2 -6 steel lines in the tunnel (tig welded in place), 2 carter fuel pumps, -8 line out of tank. 48 tri jet Dells, 2387 with SE heads. Dyno'ed at 210 hp. Using oil pressure switch to control relays for the pumps. Street car.
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[VeloMikey]

2275 with 48IDAs... Stock fuel tap with reserve, stock 6mm fuel line, stock mechanical pump, Berg banjo fittings and 2.00mm needle and seats. Revs to 6500 and never runs out of fuel.
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Ghia Build Thread https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=768748

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I guess it depends on what you want from the engine. I have a 1776 with a Carter Rotary everyone sells with a 5/16 line. I picked up from 16.80's to 16.20's just by changing to this setup over a Facet Pump, and a 1/4 line. A friend with a N/A 2332 went from 12 flat to an 11.66 off the trailer going to an Aeromtive A1000 with a 12 feed/10 return from a Holley Blue with a dead ended 3/8 line. Neither set up was "running out", and the pump/lines were the only things changed, but the larger volume of fuel made each car quicker. The owner of the quicker car was talking with some of the 7 second cars at one of our local tracks, and they were the ones thinking the Blue pump was too small for his 2332. If he would not of changed, I would have never thought to change. I was simply bracket racing for fun, but my buddy was working hard on progressing, and had gotten stuck around 12 flat for probably close to 75-100 passes. The fuel system put him over the top. Another combo of a N/A 2276 with 44's had a Carter with a 5/16 line, and it WAS running out. It was changed to a Holley Red with a 3/8 line. It never made it back to the track, but the butt dyno testing showed a huge improvement. You have to have something to use the fuel. Simply putting an A1000 on a 1600 isn't going to give it 100 extra hp, but unless you are testing at the track/dyno, those that feel their set up is good enough may never know if it could be better.

[ps2375]

It definitely helps to know if you are using more than the pump can supply in a high load situation like that. I haven't been able to test like that yet, but haven't run into any stumbling at an auto-x yet. With my larger exhaust on the motor now, I'm guessing I've got a better chance of running the float bowls low and going lean, Some real testing with the wideband may be in order.

[Dauz]

[HotStreetVw]

-10 from the tank to a Aeromotive fuel filter, -6 out to a Holley red, -6 to a 3/8" SS hardline to a Aeromotive X1 bypass regulator. Fuel is returned through a 3/8" SS hardline back into the tank.

-8 from the regulator to a Y-block mounted on the back of the fan shroud, -6 to each carb.
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4inBhore
50 Split - 2724cc NA. Haltech injected
62 Notchback - 2542cc Turbo WIP

[jkmar73]

Running -8 from tank to System 1 Pro Street fuel filter. Then to Holley red pump to 3/8" fuel line to Holley regulator to dual Weber IDAs.
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Jake

[VdanielW]

Here's an inertia switch and connector: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-INERTIA-SWITCH-FUEL-P...mp;vxp=mtr

I'm runninga 3/8" fuel line, holley red pump, and holley regulator on my 2276 turbo engine. (holley 2bbl carb).

[Glenn]

2180 w/ dual 48 IDAs.

Stock hardline in body, 7mm hose, .250" hardline to to carbs and mechanical pump.
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Glenn
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[Lo Cash John]

For a cheaper alternative to the pump controller Dale linked to, use a VW fuel pump relay from a Rabbit, Golf, Jetta, etc from the Mark II era. Maybe even the Mark III and IV. When I need one I just go to the parts store and for an 84 Rabbit pump relay. It a typical relay EXCEPT it's got a tach signal input. If it does't see a tach signal (pulses from running engine) it shuts off within 4 or 5 seconds. I installed one in my buddy's Type III last week. I think he paid $29 at NAPA.
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[fabricator john]

thanks john ,, writing that in my cheat book ,,,
fabricator john