Corrosion inside engine case ok?

[campingbox]

I have this AH case which has a thin spot in the back below the flywheel.

Anyone have an opinion on whether this is alright to ignore and use?

I could put some JB weld on there and smooth it out. I've never used JB weld inside an engine case before. I don't have a way to weld it up but I could take it somewhere and have it done by a local welding shop. Aside from this one spot, which looks pretty bad, there is not any other corrosion on the inside.

The outside has some pitting, but no holes I can see.

I suppose I could clean up another case but that's not my question....

[Glenn]

I say use it.
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Nothing wrong with that corrosion BUT that case looks like it was sandblasted. If you decide to run it, make sure you pull all the oil galley plugs, take out the oil pick up and make sure there isn't a speck of sand in there.
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Cylinder Head Reference Sheet

[jpaull]

Where's the bad spot?

I don't see any bad stuff

Hey that first picture came out kinda cool, is it really tinted brown like that? I could see that as a fun retro vw engine done up steampunk style polished copper fuel lines and that brass crank pulley that other guy bought off ebay from another thread.....


Jeff
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

Transmission by MCMScott:
Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[campingbox]

[williamM]

x2 on the sand blast- pop the plugs and send a lot of hot steamy carwash juice down the galleys.

JB weld would sit down in there just fine-
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[campingbox]

[earthquake]

I would clean the pot hole out with brake-klean and fill it with PC7 epoxy and let it sit for a couple of days and build it, I don't like JB weld for any thing that goes over 200°, I know it say its good for it but I just don't like it.

Casey
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[modok]

Beadblasting any mag engine part=playing a dangerous game.
If a case has been bead blasted I consider it ruined.
Sorry to be negative, but that's how I feel about it after seeing it done a few times before.
It's just TOO easy to get the glass embedded in the surfaces.

If you have good control and clean it at high temperatures it might be ok, good luck!

[Joe Bence]

X2 I would pass just because of the glass bead
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[slalombuggy]

[campingbox]

The guys in the vintage engine forums glass bead cases all the time. It's worked for me, YRMV.

I've used glass beads on a dozen builds and have never had a problem. Soda or walnut shells will not give you the same look. The engine in our '66 bus has 45,000 miles over four years and still works great. The engine before that had the same mileage before I put in in a bus we were selling.

Glass isn't going to simply "stick" to an engine case - it will stick to grease and oil. There are no half measures here - if you're going to do a half ass job media blasting the case then you are better off leaving it alone. If you're going to bead blast an engine case and expect to be finished in an hour - or even two - don't start. If you're going to spend an hour on it and then think the little dark spots sitting in the corners of the case are okay to leave then you are mistaken - those are the places the media will stick to.

Yes, when you're done I like to blow out all the passages, knock the case studs against a rubber floor mat, then submerge it in the solvent tank and use rifle brushes down all of the passages before blowing it out again.

Is it alot of work? Yes. Can the look be duplicated by another process? Not that I've found.