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Radius Rod connection on sub frame
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SCM
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 5:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Radius Rod connection on sub frame Reply with quote

I just took on this job and it all went really well until I ran into this.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Being a Rocky Mtn van that isn't driven in winter, it was easy enough to budge my late model radius rods with the help of leverage (standing on the wrench on the passenger side, using a floor jack to lift it on the driver side).

All went well on the passenger side but the driver's side radius bushing was worn through to the point where the rod was gouged and galled from wearing on the chassis. If I would have just used the same lower nut, without trying to take it off the rod, I would have been fine but I wanted to use the new hardware. Trying to do that messed up the rod's thread enough (this picture doesn't show it) that I decided to buy a new radius rod.

I told my wife that I saved our lives by removing a severely word radius rod - yep, I'm a hero.

So, if you're doing this job, maybe inspect your threads where they go through the chassis, and if they're messed up maybe consider keeping that old lower nut instead of removing it and replacing. Or, you can spend $100 for a new rod and hardware.
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Vanagon Nut
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Radius Rod connection on sub frame Reply with quote

That's exactly what my radius rod sleeve, rod looked like. Wore into the hole at chassis.

I've read that when using a mig to patch holes, one could use copper as backing; the fill won't adhere to the copper.

Given marks comments, in hindsight, I would've just back filled the damaged hole so metal at repaired hole retains the OEM thickness.

Or, use really thin metal to patch area and backfill.

Neil.
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foodeater
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Radius Rod connection on sub frame Reply with quote

Vanagon Nut wrote:
That's exactly what my radius rod sleeve, rod looked like. Wore into the hole at chassis.

I've read that when using a mig to patch holes, one could use copper as backing; the fill won't adhere to the copper.

Given marks comments, in hindsight, I would've just back filled the damaged hole so metal at repaired hole retains the OEM thickness.

Or, use really thin metal to patch area and backfill.

Neil.


Yup, copper works great as a backer that MIG wire won't stick to, when welding steel. You can buy copper spoons or paddles for doing this in hard to reach places.
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 11:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Radius Rod connection on sub frame Reply with quote

I found a thick walled pipe with the correct outer diameter, and a too-small inner diameter. Had it drilled to the precise inner size and cut to lengths to replace my bad ones. Worked fine.
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SCM
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PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 7:22 am    Post subject: Re: Radius Rod connection on sub frame Reply with quote

IdahoDoug wrote:
I found a thick walled pipe with the correct outer diameter, and a too-small inner diameter. Had it drilled to the precise inner size and cut to lengths to replace my bad ones. Worked fine.


Thanks for the tip Doug. I have new metal tubes on hand. They came with the Powerflex kit that T3 sells. I'm just glad I caught this before the sub-frame holes became damaged.

I'm bummed out that I couldn't get my hole project finished this weekend but once the new rod shows up it should go fast.
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Retsgard
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thummmper wrote:
has anyone gotten the oe diameter of that hole?


Anybody? Smile
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