Air-cooled to SVX EG33 conversion

[insyncro]

I highly recommend test fitting the trans to the engine to make sure that the clutch does not contact the bellhousing just below the starter.

Some material may need to be removed to allow the two to mate perfectly.

FYI, I have watch someone who didnt really care, mate them with slight contact and fire the engine.
Sure, the aluminum gave way easily, but that is not how I roll.

[Howesight]

You are going to want to properly connect the EGR plumbing. There is a temp sensor that checks if the EGR system is working. I am not certain, but I believe that it can cause a DTC code. Without the exhaust gases going into the intake in light-load conditions, the engine will have a tendency to ping, which you will never hear, because the knock control will dial back your ignition timing. This then gets compounded by the ECU which has a "learning" function and which will then change your spark map which takes away power in the affected RPM and load range and reduces fuel efficiency. On my SVX, I find a noticeable power decrease whenever I have run regular gas (87 octane vs 94 octane). The power loss can last for a couple of tanks of 94 before the ECU "re-learns" and goes back to the original spark map.

I found that mild steel, and even brake line (easy to bend) can be used to get the EGR plumbed and operating. The stainless is pretty, but not necessary.
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'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[Macwesty]

Thanks very much for those tips fellas. I will do both!

Scott
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'82 Vanagon Westfalia
Subaru SVX power!

[VanaConn]

This is funny because I have the identical color 81 westy that I decided to rebuild stock. Felt like it was too much extra work with the heater cores and required parts . Cudo's to you however. I bought another water cooled 86 westy to convert to SVX power. Should be done this summer. I am only two hours away from you. Hit up my group if you haven't on FB >Subaru Six Cylinder VW Van. I am not planning on running EGR but find the info interesting. I do plan to run 93 octane. It will be an animal for sure.
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Admin;
https://www.facebook.com/groups/subaruvolkswagens/
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[Macwesty]

[insyncro]

As Howe has mentioned, the EGR plumbing is not difficult to accomplish and it does smooth out the ride

Not going environmental on either, BUT, it is part of the emissions system, ya dig
Don't piss off the polar bears any more than necessary.

[VanaConn]

[Macwesty]

[Macwesty]

Small steps yesterday and today. Picked up a 4" hose clamp to secure the subaru charcoal canister and finished modifying the subaru airbox and mounted the airbox bracket I fabricated.

Airbox bracket:

Airbox block plate. Used 4 6mm bolts with lock washers and nuts along with Permatex form-a-gasket. Should keep the air drawing through the AFM.

My air compressor swallowed its compression ring this weekend so I put my dremel tool to work for some of this light metal fabrication. I went to pick up some reinforced cutting disks and found that dremel has a nice new quick lock system with even beefier metal cutting disks. I always appreciate when people include tips about tools they find effective/useful during their builds so here is one from me. Dremel EZ-lock. Great in tight spaces and pretty inexpensive with the basic Dremel tool at $49 and this EZ-lock cutting kit at $15.

Scott
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'82 Vanagon Westfalia
Subaru SVX power!

[flomulgator]

[wasserbox]

[Howesight]

[Macwesty]

[wasserbox]

[insyncro]

Yes the newest SC header has the EGR port.

You have to ask RMW to add it.
They may not even build EG33 exhausts any longer, haven't checked in years, so be forewarned.

[VanaConn]

[bosco53]

Good stuff here! Can't wait to see it done!
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Bluey, "The Wonder Slug" - 80 Westfalia Air-Cooled to EJ22 and now Frankenmotor. #thewonderslug

Uncle Buck, 86 Syncro GL Camper Conversion - Restored to it's original glory and sold. 💔

[Macwesty]

So Labor Day weekend got me jump started on my SVX conversion again. I continued this weekend and have made some great progress.

First order of business was to give this air-cooled van some water-cooled parts. I sourced an upper radiator bracket and cooling fan wiring harness from a Samba member. After some prep I welded it in and mounted the radiator.

Oh boy, it ain't air-cooled anymore!

Next, after mounting the tranny to the engine I couldn't resist putting the drivetrain in the van. Not having an engine crane and being by myself I scratched my head and bit and decided that I'd go Egyptian on the situation. I cut some PVC pipe sections for rollers and grabbed a 2x6. I measured the height of the motor as it sat on the PVC pipe and 2x6 and then jacked up the van until the rear apron was just above the required height. The motor and tranny rolled in there slick as grease. With the help of a couple floor jacks I had the motor and tranny installed in less than an hour.

Oh, man! If this doesn't get you excited better switch to basket weaving!

This weekend's activities started with getting the front-to-rear coolant pipes installed and running the heater hoses. This was a big deal to me. I bet most people converting water-cooled vans to a different engine don't give this much thought but installing coolant pipes in an air-cooled van is a real turning point and a motivator! I got the coolant pipes from Bus Depot. I found it easier to install the front coolant pipes from behind the gas tank with the gas tank lowered a bit. I've spent some time scratching my head during this part of the project because I don't have anything to go by. Since there were no coolant pipes previously I couldn't just match up the new pipes to what was there before. I'm also using the Smallcar coolant pipe kit which provides a stainless coolant pipe to run the coolant from the coolant manifold (non-reversed) around the back of the engine compartment and just forward of the coolant reservoir to meet up with the coolant pipe for the run forward to the radiator. Another stainless coolant pipe joins the hose that attaches to the thermostat to the return coolant pipe from the radiator.

The smaller stainless coolant pipe doesn't really have a mount point. I'm sure if I call Smallcar and ask what to do about this they will say use zip ties. I'm not thrilled with that idea but that is what I've done at least temporarily. What do others do with this shorter coolant pipe? you can see in the picture below I'm holding the pipe in question.

I wrapped up the day starting to remove the upper portion of the firewall just forward of the SVX throttle body. I should have just removed this before I installed the motor and tranny but I just wasn't sure it was necessary and want to avoid cutting on the van wherever necessary. I intend to the use the stock intake from the SVX which is at least 5" wide while there is only 4" of clearance between the throttle body inlets and the bodywork. That was the piece of info I was lacking. My spot weld drill bit proved to be dull, however, so I switched to sorting out the Smallcar engine mount. As pointed out by others the slots in the Smallcar engine mount don't have much surface area for the heads of the bolts to grip. I had some cylinder head bolt washers from another project which are not much bigger in diameter than the bolt heads which did the trick.

I also worked on the area of the rear frame rails where the stock VW engine crossbar mounts (now much further rearward). I ran into some trouble when drilling the rear hole on the passenger side as the hole being drilled broke leaving no material to put a bolt through. I'll probably get some 2" angle iron and fabricate some brackets that will bolt through the bumper bracket holes.

All in all I am really pleased with the progress I've made these last two weekends. I'll pick up a couple spot weld drills and get that firewall out of the way this week. Lots of small details to see to, of course, but I feel like I am rolling downhill on this project now!

Scott
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'82 Vanagon Westfalia
Subaru SVX power!

[mackaymanx]

[mackaymanx]