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Lest Winston Wander... Where to Put a Kill Switch?
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sbclayton
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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 9:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like Sanchius' idea, but to answer your question as to where, glue the magnetic reed switch underneath the flat plastic beneath either the tach or speedo. The key is a simple fridge magnet (or other unobtrusive magnet); when you want to activate the anti-theft circuit, simply toss the magnet onto whatever area you selected - it will activate the reed switch and you're done.
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PostPosted: Thu May 06, 2010 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I were going to interrupt the power to the pump, I'd probably put in a relay. I guess you could tap into the existing relay for the pump too.
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 5:19 am    Post subject: switch Reply with quote

SImple to just replace the good fuse in your fuel pump circuit with a blown one - I wouldn't be doing this for security on a regular basis such as every time I parked - but if you were going to leave the van for a few days while you hiked or canoed off it would be effective and unobtrusive.
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 8:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dunno if mine is completely theft-proof, which is in an oxymoron in the first place, but I tapped into the ignition wire under the dash and ran it towards the passenger side.

I find it handy when I have a girl in the van and have to reach over nice and close to switch it off. if its one of my buddies. "Dude, the switch. I dont wanna get near your hairy-ass legs"
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Kill switch installed on fuel pump, switch somewhere in a closet.
That is as close as I will give you.
Amazing that shortly after i installed it, the ignition cylinder went out, and I had to leave my keyes in the cylinder/ignition all night or they would not go back in when i drove it to the shop for replacement.
Kill switch had just been installed!
Timing is everything...
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GWTWTLW wrote:
If I were going to interrupt the power to the pump, I'd probably put in a relay. I guess you could tap into the existing relay for the pump too.

Why?

Regular toggle switches are rated well past what the pump requires.

FYI: No need to interrupt the power lead. You can simply do the other. Hint hint.....

What I really, really worry about is stuff getting stolen out. After trips that nice new 22 inch LED TV has to come out along with some other pricey items. What a pain. I can not afford a special high garage for the Westy.....
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PostPosted: Fri May 07, 2010 1:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When my dad was working on the Alaska pipeline he wired a second wire off the coil to the metal springs in the seat. He came out after work one day and found the truck running rough and the door wide open. I guess the theif didn't have the mannors to close it behind him. Wink
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MrBuelterman
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With all the stolen vans in Seattle recently installing a fuel pump kill switch is my top priority. One quick question... Which fuse is for the fuel pump? I have an 86 and found the diagram here http://www.vanagonparts.com/fuse_panel_86to91.html
None are labeled as Fuel Pump
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like to hide the switch in plain sight. Since I live in socal I completely remove my rear heaters in my vans. On my subie powered syncro I ran power wire to close the fuel pump relay from the second speed on the rear heater wire harness. I mounted my ECU and relays under the back seat so they were in close proximity to the heater fan wires already. The ECU provides the ground to close the relay. The van won't run unless the rear heater switch is in the second position. That way I don't have any hidden switch to find in my closet etc. It's right there by my ignition switch.
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adamjjohn203
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Simple....run a new ground wire to the fuel pump. Run it through a single pole switch where you'd like it mounted and hook it to a ground. No load to worry about and it's a cheap solution. The van will start and run for 5-10 seconds and die. Then nothing but cranking. Any single pole switch from your local hardware shop should be fine.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if the bad guys are reading along also
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We had a fuel pump lock out switch to interrupt the power supply to the pump.
in WBX vans there's a yellow plug in the pass side fire wall that is the fuel pump wire. unplug that connector and using a double line wire run it under the back seat to a hidden switch. but this is mostly only good for trail head parking.. not the needed constant convenience locking..

I'm going to investigate a lock for the Ebrake to secure the van with it up.

a Hitch Coupler pin lock is under $10 most of the time, requires a very little hole and stores in the console/glovebox when not needed.

like on this honduh thread
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2195591

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A switch in series with the red/black (solenoid) wire will prevent the starter from engaging when the key is turned. If you wire the "back contacts" of that switch to the horn it will sound when somebody tries to start the car. Enhancement is a relay that holds the horn on until ignition is turned off.
Lots of options on what switch to use, where to mount it (should be able to handle 10 amps for a while).
This arrangement will not put you in the position of possibly losing your engine while you're driving, which could happen with some of the other options. Better / worse? You decide.
Since I drive a diesel it is an easy matter to interrupt the power to the pump solenoid and fuel will not flow, I might do that in the engine compartment (along with a remote start switch) for added security and ease of servicing.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my Carat I have a little kill device that is up under the dash. A little flat "key" which has an end that looks like a plug-in circuit board goes into a thin socket tucked up under the steering column. The ignition is wired through this. If you pull the key it interrupts the circuit and no start. With the key pulled out the socket is not obvious at all and you can't readily tell by looking at it which wires you need to short to get the ignition working again. Best thing is the key is small and lite and you can through it in your stuff or just under the seat (nobody will have a clue what it is, unlike a switch). Every time I go camping I yank that key. Problem is I have no clue where I got this thing, but it looks like you could make something like it pretty easily.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

With all the thefts recently I thought I would add a kill switch.

I have a hot start relay for the starter motor. I put an inline fuse on the earth wire. When I go anywhere I can pull the fuse, put to cover back on and all will look normal.

Easy and low tech.

M
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2014 11:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What I'm thinking about is simple, not obvious, and it'll kill the juice on the entire Van.

Get a $3.00 30 amp flat fuse holder & fuse.


Cut the power supply wire at the fuse box, and wire this in between the cut.

OK--it'll be on the left hand side of the dash & just under it.--just enough so you can grab the fuse when you leave the Van, and nobody will see it, or know what in the heck it is.
Sometimes a switch for anything is pretty out there & obvious, and if Delbert the Gleep artist is flipping switches on the dash or under it, he may figure this out.

Oh--and the fuse holder has a black rubber cover over where the fuse was--or had been, and nobody would figure this one out.
The Van would be DOA--and nothing would function till you popped the 30 amp fuse back in it--

Really simple, and never seen or figured out, and looks like an accessory fuse in front of the fuse panel.
It's not as convenient as a switch--but how often are you going to use It?

You got the entire ignition circuit, fuel pump, coil, distributor--everything electrical with one simple spliced in item, and is at the tip of your fingers'.

Bingo--
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2014 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rob - I would think 16 g. would be too small for my tastes I would run at least 14 gauge just to be safe. It's a fairly long distance from the fuel pump to the dash and back......more resitance.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:36 am    Post subject: Re: Lest Winston Wander... Where to Put a Kill Switch? Reply with quote

so what is the part for the "hidden in plain sight" kill switch? Is there a gin-yoo-wine VW part to look for (replacement defroster switch?)?
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Lest Winston Wander... Where to Put a Kill Switch? Reply with quote

If I were to wire in a "no start switch" I would go old school.

For model year 1974 it was mandated by the Feds (USA) that if the seat belt was not fastened, the car will NOT start.

It worked well but public outcry quickly killed the system so it was a "one year only" feature.

Really, what thief will buckle up before starting a Van he is stealing?

What thief is old enough to even know that such a system was ever in production?

Use the modern existing seat belt warning light switch to accomplish this disable feature.

I never drive unbuckled so it would be a non issue for me.

Dave
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