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Altema Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010 Posts: 2904 Location: Lower Michigan
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:37 am Post subject: 1970 Karmann Ghia flasher conversion |
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Thought I'd post this although I did my conversion last year. Please note that this is for the 1970 model, so you will need to check variations in wiring from year to year.
I had a problem with the turn signals on the Karmann Ghia going out on occasion. If the signals were on for a long time, like waiting to make a turn in a traffic jam, they would not work for a while afterwards. The dash indicator would come on solid, and the outside lights would not come on at all, which meant I had to resort to hand signals. The old flasher had two internal relays and appeared to have been modified for the KG’s single indicator in the speedometer. I pulled it apart and found a bad capacitor, which I replaced with the closest value available (100u, 25v). It works fine now, but that left me wondering what I would do if it needed replacement. A quick stop at a VW dealer revealed that they cannot get that part anymore. The local NAPA store never saw anything like that before, but they did let me dig around in their collection of random flashers. There was one that had similar connections, but since the old flasher did not use all the connections anyway, and the price was $21, I passed. Instead, I bought a generic two-prong flasher for three bucks and went home to try it out. Some minor adjustments to the wiring were made (non-destructive, of course), and the new flasher was right at home, allowing me to store the old one. The one flasher operates the turn signals and the emergency flashers. Just as a note, the flasher makes and breaks the connection to do the flashing, that is all. WHAT gets flashed is determined by the signal stalk on the steering column or the emergency flasher. The new flasher has worked flawlessly.
Here’s a brief step-by-step if you need to do the same thing. Procedure is quick and 100% reversible.
Needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Electrical tape
Electrical “Y” connector, one female to double male
Utility clip that will fit the flasher, these are usually made for brooms and tools
Generic two prong turn signal flasher
Steps:
1. Open the trunk and move the trunk liner so you have access to the flasher and wiring. The flasher is usually screwed to the upright support on the driver’s side of the trunk (US version).
2. Unscrew the flasher.
3. Disconnect the brown ground wire and tape over the terminal it to prevent shorting. You will not need this connection for the new flasher.
4. Pull off the white wire from the old flasher and connect it to the input of the new flasher (usually marked with an x). It will probably work on either terminal though.
5. Pull the blue wire and the blue/green striped wire off the old flasher, and connect them both to the “Y” connector.
6. Plug the “Y” connector into the other terminal on the new flasher. Take care that the connector does not short against the connector for the white wire.
7. Inside the car, test the emergency flasher and turn signals to make sure everything is working properly. If it does not, then reverse the connections of the flasher. If it still does not work, you may have a defective flasher or another problem elsewhere in your electrical system.
8. If everything is good, then screw the hardware clip to the same spot the old flasher was mounted.
9. Clip the new flasher in place and you are done.
Here’s the old flasher
The guts!
New flasher wired. Note the ground wire terminal taped over with red electrical tape. No, I did not put that tape there! Overspray is from a PO.
Here’s the hardware clip I used. It was not even in the store computer system, so they gave it to me for 75 cents.
New clip in position
New flasher in new clip, but 100% reversible!
Paul |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26310 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 11:09 am Post subject: |
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The problem I've always had with US-spec XL flasher relays is that they light up on the dashboard first before they flash to the lights. In 1971/2 VW switched from that 4-terminal relay to a grounded three-terminal setup. These have terminals 49, 49a and 31. And they then used that setup until the late 1990s on all models - so you can see that this was a proven design. The only modification you need to make when changing is that you have to "piggyback" the wire that used to go to kBl over to 49a. And you're done. And - the lights flash OUTside the car first!
-Andy |
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Altema Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010 Posts: 2904 Location: Lower Michigan
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 2:56 pm Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
The problem I've always had with US-spec XL flasher relays is that they light up on the dashboard first before they flash to the lights. In 1971/2 VW switched from that 4-terminal relay to a grounded three-terminal setup. These have terminals 49, 49a and 31. And they then used that setup until the late 1990s on all models - so you can see that this was a proven design. The only modification you need to make when changing is that you have to "piggyback" the wire that used to go to kBl over to 49a. And you're done. And - the lights flash OUTside the car first!
-Andy |
That's good info, thanks Andy. The blinking inside first doesn't bother me much, but then I tend to signal early anyways. Of course, going from sticking my hand out the window to reliably functioning signals for three bucks made me overlook that fault
Paul |
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Tomskg Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: UK
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 4:02 pm Post subject: |
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Look here for an alternative setup which uses two relays. More expensive, but it replicates the functionality of the original, which flashes the speedo light in sync with the outside lights. This is how I replaced my faulty flasher relay and I found that two relays click twice as loud - useful when the self cancelling doesn't work. |
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glutamodo The Android
Joined: July 13, 2004 Posts: 26310 Location: Douglas, WY
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Posted: Wed Aug 04, 2010 10:41 pm Post subject: |
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Altema wrote: |
That's good info, thanks Andy. The blinking inside first doesn't bother me much, but then I tend to signal early anyways. Of course, going from sticking my hand out the window to reliably functioning signals for three bucks made me overlook that fault
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Yeah, good writeup, by the way, except using that relay I don't like. When I changed my 62 bug to 12V in 1989, there were no resources like theSamba for me. All I knew is that my old relay had three terminals. So I got a 3 dollar flasher thinking it would work. That would be the PXL style. Well, it just blew fuses or didn't work at all when I tried to hook it up various ways. I learned the hard way that was not for VWs, but you could just just the XL terminals, or maybe I just got an XL relay and it worked.
But the way that kind of relay functioned - it drove me bonkers in the college-town traffic - making lane changes and sitting there and waiting for that damn dash arrow to "warm up" the relay before it would flash outside was maddeningly slow sometimes. I've seen other XL relays with a faster flash rate that weren't as bad, but that one sucked. That was when I learned about the grounded VW relay. Actually got an NOS one from a Bus first that looked like, and fit in place of my original - and that one was the 49/49a/31 style. So much better!! I could care less that the inside light flashes in time with the outside - all I cared about was that they lit up outside FIRST.
Then, that NOS relay started to get kind of flaky after a while, flash rate wasn't constant at times. So I went and salvaged a flasher out of some mid 70s VW and have used that to this day. I just taped it to my old flasher canister so it would resonate a bit louder and make a better sound. (shown below)
Most FLAPS sell that Euro-spec flasher, by the way. Look for part number EP-35 or EF-35. Costs more than the cheap little metal can style though.
Oh, and there are 4-terminal flashers out there that are supposed to replace the factory ones, but I'd avoid them, heard they are not set up like the VW ones were. I was messing with one of them at the shop I used to work a while back, I can't remember what I found though. Should have taken some notes or photos but didn't at that time.
-Andy |
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ovghiaguy Samba Member
Joined: November 07, 2009 Posts: 848 Location: Orangevale Ca.
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:46 am Post subject: 1970 flasher relay |
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I used the flasher (4 prong) from KGPR. $13. plus you get tech support |
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Altema Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010 Posts: 2904 Location: Lower Michigan
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 10:42 am Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
I've seen other XL relays with a faster flash rate that weren't as bad, but that one sucked. |
Ok, now I see why it WOULD drive someone bonkers! Waiting for it to warm up on the first flash? Forget it! Fortunately mine is fast. Hmm, how to quantify that... How about FPM - Flashes Per Minute? Lol. Mine is about 90 FPM, a little faster than a flash per second. The very first flash of the day is about one second, which explains why I did not notice it much. If it took a few seconds for the first flash, or it was slow all the time when you first put it on, then I would have ditched the flasher too.
Paul |
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Altema Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010 Posts: 2904 Location: Lower Michigan
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 11:00 am Post subject: |
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Tomskg wrote: |
Look here for an alternative setup which uses two relays. More expensive, but it replicates the functionality of the original, which flashes the speedo light in sync with the outside lights. This is how I replaced my faulty flasher relay and I found that two relays click twice as loud - useful when the self cancelling doesn't work. |
A louder click would be nice, there are a few times when I have forgotten it! And yes, my cancelling mechanism does not yet work. I do have an extra-loud flasher that is available here in the states, but have not tried it yet.
Regarding the light being in sync; I actually prefer the alternating flash from an electrical standpoint.
In sync, the load cycle is 100%, 0%, 100%.
Out of sync load cycle is approximately 25%, 75%, 25%.
I say approximate because I think the speedo bulb draws much less amperage than the signal bulbs.
Paul |
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Tomskg Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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Altema wrote: |
Regarding the light being in sync; I actually prefer the alternating flash from an electrical standpoint.
In sync, the load cycle is 100%, 0%, 100%.
Out of sync load cycle is approximately 25%, 75%, 25%.
I say approximate because I think the speedo bulb draws much less amperage than the signal bulbs.
Paul |
The signal bulbs are 21W * 2 = 42W and the signal bulb is far less - 2W. The cycle will be something like 5%,95%,5%. The extra current lighting the speedo is not likely to burn out any fuses.
Tom |
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Tomskg Samba Member
Joined: February 23, 2010 Posts: 5 Location: UK
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Posted: Thu Aug 05, 2010 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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glutamodo wrote: |
Oh, and there are 4-terminal flashers out there that are supposed to replace the factory ones, but I'd avoid them, heard they are not set up like the VW ones were. I was messing with one of them at the shop I used to work a while back, I can't remember what I found though. Should have taken some notes or photos but didn't at that time.
-Andy |
The 4 terminal off-the-shelf flasher has a separate terminal intended to flash the speedo light. This supplies +12v. But the VW speedo light has +12v supply, which it shares with the oil and generator warning lights, and it lights up when it is switched to ground. In the design I used, the switching relay uses the output from the 4th terminal to switch the speedo light to ground
Tom |
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Altema Samba Member
Joined: June 20, 2010 Posts: 2904 Location: Lower Michigan
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Posted: Fri Aug 06, 2010 8:35 am Post subject: |
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Tomskg wrote: |
Altema wrote: |
Regarding the light being in sync; I actually prefer the alternating flash from an electrical standpoint.
In sync, the load cycle is 100%, 0%, 100%.
Out of sync load cycle is approximately 25%, 75%, 25%.
I say approximate because I think the speedo bulb draws much less amperage than the signal bulbs.
Paul |
The signal bulbs are 21W * 2 = 42W and the signal bulb is far less - 2W. The cycle will be something like 5%,95%,5%. The extra current lighting the speedo is not likely to burn out any fuses.
Tom |
Now I know
I was not concerned about blowing any fuses, but I guess that explains why some flashers take so long for the first blink with such a small load.
Paul |
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azsuns Samba Member
Joined: November 25, 2006 Posts: 8 Location: Venice beach, California
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 8:38 am Post subject: Re: 1970 Karmann Ghia flasher conversion |
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I have a 70 Ghia and have installed a new harness in the car before I started my the paint and body work.
So while the car was apart I didnt make all the switch connections. I hooked up the battery yesterday and most of the lights worked, the car started. the int light worked for the first time. Im not very good at wiring and followed the harness instructions. I installed a new turn signal switch on the column because the old wires were splice and cobbled up under the dash.
So my wiring diagram shows a black green and white wire coming off the turn switch and going to the relay and connecting to the dash arrow with the blue and green wire. I dont have a black green and white wire coming from the signal switch? Extra wires are red & black, grey, and blue & black? when I put the signal switch on left or right, the bulbs light in the rear but dont blink. And once the front right lit but dosnt now.
Are any of the remaining wires to replace the blck grn & white wire? I have none from the column going to the flasher. I looked on ebay this morning because they have good pics of a turn switch and didnt see the mystery wire either? Any help will be appreciated. Pictures also. |
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kiwighia68 Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2013 Posts: 2874 Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2016 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: 1970 Karmann Ghia flasher conversion |
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azsuns wrote: |
I have a 70 Ghia and have installed a new harness in the car before I started my the paint and body work.
So while the car was apart I didnt make all the switch connections. I hooked up the battery yesterday and most of the lights worked, the car started. the int light worked for the first time. Im not very good at wiring and followed the harness instructions. I installed a new turn signal switch on the column because the old wires were splice and cobbled up under the dash.
So my wiring diagram shows a black green and white wire coming off the turn switch and going to the relay and connecting to the dash arrow with the blue and green wire. I dont have a black green and white wire coming from the signal switch? Extra wires are red & black, grey, and blue & black? when I put the signal switch on left or right, the bulbs light in the rear but dont blink. And once the front right lit but dosnt now.
Are any of the remaining wires to replace the blck grn & white wire? I have none from the column going to the flasher. I looked on ebay this morning because they have good pics of a turn switch and didnt see the mystery wire either? Any help will be appreciated. Pictures also. |
I replaced my aftermarket turn signal switch with the original German one yesterday after making a small repair of the old one. I was advised by Boris Orazem of Vintage Vee-Dub Supplies in Sydney that the old one repaired is miles better than the aftermarket ones., which last about 6 months, he said. (Exactly how long mine lasted - 6 months and 10 days.) Solved my problem immediately - all the flasher lights flashing when activated.
The original has that green/white/black wire. In its place the aftermarket has a black wire.
You probably know that the switch comes with at least 3 extra wires. If you need a photo please let me know.
The experts are the guys who have posted their comments earlier, Paul especially. _________________ Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015 |
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