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KillerTux Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2005 Posts: 434 Location: Odenton, MD
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 1:25 pm Post subject: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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I was greasing up my front end and the rubber seal broke. I clamped it up with a hose clamp. Will this work for driving and how do I go about installing a new rubber seal?
_________________ 1964 Beetle Convertible |
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RareAir Samba Member
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 14577 Location: 18 miles North of the border
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keifernet Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002 Posts: 19395 Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 7:00 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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KillerTux wrote: |
I was greasing up my front end and the rubber seal broke. I clamped it up with a hose clamp. Will this work for driving and how do I go about installing a new rubber seal?
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Describe "broke"??... these torsion arm seals are only dust/dirt seals in that if you grease your beam like your supposed to...grease will come oozing out of the seal/beam... that is how they were designed. They are not meant to "contain" the grease permanently like a wheel bearing grease seal.... |
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KillerTux Samba Member
Joined: June 21, 2005 Posts: 434 Location: Odenton, MD
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Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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oh ok. I thought they sealed in the lube and as the new stuff was injected in it would give around the edges. Glad to know. _________________ 1964 Beetle Convertible |
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OLDveedubs Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2003 Posts: 602
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:00 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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Thread Revival!
I have a dust seal that is split. The body is off the link pin pan.
Is it possible to remove the set and grub screw, lower shock bolt, sway bar and tie rod and remove the entire hub assembly with the trailing arms still attached?
More or less slide the upper and lower trailing arms out of the beam.
Or am I taking apart the brakes, hub, king/link pin setup, all of the above, just to replace the seal?
Thanks! _________________ -Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection." |
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60ragtop Bonneville Belt Bitch
Joined: March 13, 2006 Posts: 7800 Location: Big Wonderful WYO 82401
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Posted: Thu Jun 30, 2016 8:02 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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yes but way to hard to get everything lined up to go back together. Easier to pull it apart and do it the easy way. _________________ Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986
tasb wrote: |
I've restored a large number too, but I don't toot my horn quite as loud.
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sb001 wrote: |
maybe he just snapped cause his car sucked |
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tisius Samba Member
Joined: July 11, 2011 Posts: 1570 Location: Rotterdam,NL (+Chicago,IL)
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 12:11 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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60ragtop wrote: |
yes but way to hard to get everything lined up to go back together. Easier to pull it apart and do it the easy way. |
x2 _________________ drive it like you just robbed the bank
you don't have to be crazy to be into VW's, but it sure helps!!
.... if it ain't dutch, it ain't much! |
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EVfun Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2012 Posts: 5481 Location: Seattle
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:38 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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OLDveedubs wrote: |
Thread Revival!
I have a dust seal that is split. The body is off the link pin pan.
Is it possible to remove the set and grub screw, lower shock bolt, sway bar and tie rod and remove the entire hub assembly with the trailing arms still attached?
More or less slide the upper and lower trailing arms out of the beam.
Or am I taking apart the brakes, hub, king/link pin setup, all of the above, just to replace the seal?
Thanks! |
This won't be that easy, but it won't be very hard. The upper and lower trailing arms have a slightly different angle on the torsion bars, when you get the king and link pins assembly removed and pull the arms out a little you will see the difference in angle. That is why you cannot pull everything together and put it back together.
You can remove the wheel, then the drum, then unbolt the backing plate and hang it from a wire wrapped around the tab on the body for the brake hose. You won't have to crack a brake line or even bleed the brakes when done. Keep the bearings covered so they stay clean the don't push the brake pedal after the drum is removed or you will blow the wheel cylinder.
Now pop the tie rod and and remove the 2 link pin pinch bolts. Next you can slide the king and link pin assembly out as a unit. Take care to watch the shims between the link pins and the trailing arms so you can put them back on the proper link pin (make sure they don't go dropping in a pile as you pull the assembly.) As you pull the link pins the lower arm will want to drop a some, but with little force, while the upper arm is resting on the bump stop. Last, you just remove the lock nuts and grub screws holding the trailing arm to the torsion bars and pull the trailing arm out.
As long as you don't find more messed up parts it is really not hard to do. _________________
Wildthings wrote: |
As a general rule, cheap parts are the most expensive parts you can buy. |
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OLDveedubs Samba Member
Joined: February 10, 2003 Posts: 602
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Posted: Fri Jul 01, 2016 1:44 pm Post subject: Re: Is it ok for a quick fix |
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Thanks for the responses guys!
The seal was brand new two years ago when I rebuilt the pan. Have been working on the body in the meantime and cleaning up the pan yesterday found the split seal. When I was working on the body the pan often spent time in the sun, between that and the grease I'm sure that's why it perished.
Appreciate the insight, I will do it the right way and avoid the major headaches. Although a pain, at least I found it before the body goes back on as that would only complicate it further. _________________ -Ryan
Restoration Updates
www.my59bug.com
"Perfection through inspection." |
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