Did I fry my coil?

[70Crew]

My new (crate) engine was starting fine until this morning. Now it turns over but doesn’t catch. Between the last time I started it and now, I loosened the coil and rotated it 180 degrees in the mounting bracket so that the wires would reach easier. I accidentally put the main wire from the fuse box on terminal 1 of the coil instead of terminal 15 and didn’t realize my mistake until I had cranked it a few times. It is now wired correctly but I am not getting a spark when I hold the coil wire near the frame and crank the starter (so I am assuming it is a spark problem rather than a fuel problem). The coil is a black Bosch Mexican model. I have a couple other coils lying around so I suppose I could swap it out to test it unless anyone can think of anything I should be checking first.
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1970 Crew Cab

[Tcash]

Assuming you have electronic points? because you did not mention smoking the green wire.
You fried the electronic points module.

that sucks
Tcash

[70Crew]

No, I do not have electronic ignition... stock setup.
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1970 Crew Cab

[70Crew]

There is a green wire from the distributor to terminal 1 of the coil.
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1970 Crew Cab

[Tcash]

[70Crew]

I checked the fuse first, that was my initial guess (still good). I just watched a JK video on how to replace the condenser so I feel comfortable doing that if it comes to it. Are you aware of any forum posts that describe how to verify that I am getting 12 volts to the coil and also whether I am getting any spark at the points? I am by myself this weekend, can one or both of those tests be done single- handed or do I need a helper to turn over the ignition while I do something in back?
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1970 Crew Cab

[pioneer1]

turn the key to the on position. Test for 12vdc at the + post on the coil.
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"Always waiting for tomorrow ruined everything"

'85 Porsche 911 Targa

'76 Westfalia project

[70Crew]

Thanks, I was thinking I had to turn the ignition to "start" to get that reading. Just ran that test and got 12 v at the positive post.
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1970 Crew Cab

[Tcash]

No video
The coil + 15 wire is not fused from the factory.
But a PO may have put a fuse on the wire somewhere.

Coil voltage test
turn the key on
pull the + #15 wire off the coil
touch it to the 15 terminal a few times
you should see sparking
no spark look for an inline fuse

Spark test
pull the coil wire out of the distributor cap
clip the end of the coil wire 1/8"-1/4" in from a metal surface, like you where testing the spark plug wire.
pull the distributor cap off
turn the key on
turn the engine over until the points are closed
with a Popsicle stick or pencil open and close the points
Every time the points open, there should be a spark from the coil wire
No spark replace the capacitor [condenser]

good luck
Tcash

[70Crew]

TCash - I don’t know why you are taking the time to help on a holiday weekend but I DO appreciate it! I owe you a beer (or 4).

I just pulled the cap off the distributor and found this. The wire from the condenser to what I believe is the contact set (my best guess looking at a parts diagram) is fried. The wire actually fused to the plastic dust cover. If this happened, I am thinking the condenser is toast, I just need to figure out what else is damaged and see if replacement parts are individually available.
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1970 Crew Cab

[Abscate]

No to frying coil, it doesn't care which way current flows.

I would guess both condensor and points needed
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.ssS!

[airschooled]

Wow, nice discovery!

Is the condenser new-ish? Replace it. If it says "made in Germany" on it anywhere, I would be extremely tempted to leave it in for now and try a new set of points before swapping in for a condenser of unknown quality. I have had two new Bosch condensers crap out in the first day of driving over the last three years.

Robbie
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[SGKent]

If the condenser was bad the wire to it would be melted and not the wire to the points. What happened is that when 12V was applied to the green wire side of the coil without having the resistance of the coil in between it and the points, the amount of current was so excessive it melted that wire. It may be that it was a thinner gauge than the green wire so it went first. It can also damage the ignition switch.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Abscate]

Short version

Putting 12 volts on the wrong side of the coil shorted your battery to ground through the points. 100s of Amps, which melt the wire.

The condensor should be ok. The points will probably be fine after cleaning and regapping. You have to set the timing too, after messing with points.
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.ssS!

[70Crew]

Just ordered replacement points and condenser. You are probably correct that the condenser is OK - no visible damage - but I'd rather have a backup just in case. Lesson learned ..... check the wiring diagram rather than relying on memory.
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1970 Crew Cab

[Tcash]

TCash - I don’t know why you are taking the time to help on a holiday weekend but I DO appreciate it! I owe you a beer (or 4).

Thank you. I don't usually drink beer, but when I do I drink Utopias.

I used to take a lot of poloroids, now I use my phone.

Good going
Tcash

[SGKent]

[Tcash]

[kreemoweet]

It's nor clear if the OP actually shorted 12 V. to the same terminal as the green dist. wire was attached to, or if he/she just reversed terminals #1 and #15, which would not damage anything.
The damage shown could well have been caused by just leaving the ignition on, with motor not running and points closed, for an extended period, especially if the "Mexican black coil" has a lower resistance than
the standard 3 ohms.
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[Abscate]

It's clear OP touched 12V to the connector while green wire was attached!
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.ssS!