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mranker Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 271 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:34 pm Post subject: |
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Nope. I took out an 002 3 rib and put in an 002 3 rib. _________________ '70 Bus
'02 Eurovan MV Weekender |
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aeromech Samba Member

Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 17745 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 12:48 pm Post subject: |
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I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same legnth you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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mranker Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 271 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:09 pm Post subject: |
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| aeromech wrote: |
| I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same legnth you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have. |
Thanks for making the call. I really appreciate the effort. I still have no idea what's causing my difficulties but I'm grateful for the help. _________________ '70 Bus
'02 Eurovan MV Weekender |
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kreemoweet Samba Member
Joined: March 13, 2008 Posts: 4145 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 2:44 pm Post subject: |
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9/16?! Someone previously called out that dimension at 1 1/16 in., and I nodded my head, because that's exactly what my spare trans has. It's a rebuilt 002 of unknown source,
has a 72-74 002 clutch housing, and was taken out of a functional and pretty much stock '68 bus (it had the narrower '68 clutch housing on it at the time).
Is there really that much variation in that part? _________________ '67 bug: seized by the authorities
'68 bug: seized by the authorities
'71 kombi: not yet seized by the authorities
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery! |
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aeromech Samba Member

Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 17745 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:02 pm Post subject: |
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He spoke like his was some kind of kodified shaft. Cant remember the term he used. The point was that 9/16 wasnt too short. _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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Wildthings Samba Member

Joined: March 13, 2005 Posts: 52708
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Posted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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| kreemoweet wrote: |
9/16?! Someone previously called out that dimension at 1 1/16 in., and I nodded my head, because that's exactly what my spare trans has. It's a rebuilt 002 of unknown source,
has a 72-74 002 clutch housing, and was taken out of a functional and pretty much stock '68 bus (it had the narrower '68 clutch housing on it at the time).
Is there really that much variation in that part? |
There is a difference in protrusion of the tranny input shaft between a Type 1 (9/16") and Type 4 engine (1 1/16"). The length includes a taper of about 3/16 - 1/4" for either application so it is possible the OP needed to add more taper to his shaft to get sufficient clearance within the gland nut. |
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airschooled Air-Schooled

Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 13622 Location: West Coast, USA
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 2:34 pm Post subject: |
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Mike, with the engine out, does it shift smoother? Have you tried disconnecting the shift coupler and manually selecting gears using the shift input shaft going into the nose cone?
| Wildthings wrote: |
| The length includes a taper of about 3/16 - 1/4" for either application so it is possible the OP needed to add more taper to his shaft to get sufficient clearance within the gland nut. |
This is getting my tentative vote as well. I've mulled over it again and again, and it seems that the whining sound originally experienced in your early posts is the synchros trying to do their job, but are unable to beacause the input shaft is frozen to the engine. You have 9/16" clearance PLUS the width of your straightedge. Plus no chamfer. Definitely chamfer the edge of the shaft like an original; let us know if you need a picture or measurement.
If nothing else, the chamfer will make it easier to line up your engine for install.
I can't see through the cellphone pictures to really scrutinize the input shaft, but if I could I'd be looking for wear like a mad man.
Still meditating on this,
Robbie _________________ One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
Road trip reports and tech blog:
https://www.patreon.com/airschooled |
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1967250s Samba Member
Joined: May 02, 2007 Posts: 2137
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom? _________________ '72 Elm Green Deluxe |
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aeromech Samba Member

Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 17745 Location: San Diego, California
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Posted: Wed Jun 10, 2015 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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| 1967250s wrote: |
| Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom? |
Nice job picking up on that _________________ Lead Mechanic: San Diego Air and Space Museum
Licensed Airframe and Powerplant Mechanic
Licensed Pilot (Single engine Land)
Boeing 727,737-200-300-400,757,767
Airbus A319,320,321
DC9/MD80
BAe146
Fokker F28/F100
VW type 1 1962,63,65,69,72
VW Type 2 1971 (3 ea.) 1978, 1969
VW Jetta
VW Passat
Capable of leaping tall buildings in a single bound |
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mranker Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 271 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 5:55 pm Post subject: |
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PROGRESS! Sorry for the delay in responding but family responsibilities have kept me out from under the bus. So I went to see George at Import Vehicle Technicians in Pasadena. He's seen everything and he always will give advice on how to fix it yourself rather than take your money. I described my symptoms and showed my pictures and he asked a lot of the same questions you guys did. He asked what I had already tried and when I got to describing the clutch cable replacement he paused and thought. (If you don't know George he is the KING of the thoughtful pause) He went to a drawer and fished out a bag of these clutch cable arms. He must have had twenty of them and they were all different. The one on the bottom is my original and you can see where it has worn almost to the point of failure. The one on the top is the replacement I bought at a local part shop.
Here is the clevis pin I replaced due to excessive wear:
I tried to line of the horizontal where the clutch arm attaches to the pedal assembly so you can see the difference in the angle of the arms. After what seemed like 3 minutes of silent thought, George said he was pretty sure that my problem was I had the wrong arm and that the pedal was not giving me enough throw to disengage the clutch. He also said the new clutch cables have much shorter forks than the originals so he said I should file down one corner of the fork to allow more clearance for the cable. So armed with a new clutch arm and this information, I reassembled the clutch pedal assembly and put the engine back in. I really didn't think this was going to work but IT DID! I now have a functioning clutch.
| Quote: |
| Umm, looking at the pics of the shifter, it looks like it is rotating in the ball socket. Can you pull out the shifter and check to see if the pin is there on the ball at the bottom? |
the pin is there. You can kind of barely see it in one of my blurry pictures
Now as far as shifting goes it is still very tight. It requires a lot of effort to select a gear. There is no grinding but it does sometimes take quite a shove on the stick to select a gear. George said it can take a while for new transaxles to "loosen up." Anyone else have experience with this? _________________ '70 Bus
'02 Eurovan MV Weekender |
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skills@eurocarsplus Samba Peckerhead

Joined: January 01, 2007 Posts: 17939 Location: sticksville, ct.
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:43 pm Post subject: |
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| mranker wrote: |
| it can take a while for new transaxles to "loosen up." Anyone else have experience with this? |
yes _________________
| gprudenciop wrote: |
my reason for switching to subaru is my german car was turning chinese so i said fuck it and went japanese....... |
| Jake Raby wrote: |
| Thanks for the correction. I used to be a nice guy, then I ruined it by exposing myself to the public. |
| Brian wrote: |
| Also the fact that people are agreeing with Skills, it's a turn of events for samba history |
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airschooled Air-Schooled

Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 13622 Location: West Coast, USA
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Posted: Tue Jun 16, 2015 6:47 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting stuff. I've heard of so many people having odd issues like this where the clutch doesn't fully disengage, that I cross my fingers every time I have to touch that system.
I wish I had a fancy new transaxle to see what these "tight" gears feel like⦠ _________________ One-on-one tech help for your vintage Volkswagen:
www.airschooled.com
Road trip reports and tech blog:
https://www.patreon.com/airschooled |
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Tcash Samba Member

Joined: July 20, 2011 Posts: 12843 Location: San Jose, California, USA
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Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 8:54 am Post subject: Type I 002 input shaft protrusion from face of bell housing |
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Type I 002 input shaft protrusion from face of bell housing
| aeromech wrote: |
| mranker wrote: |
OK engine out and the input shaft clears the mating surface of the transaxle by 9/16".
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I called Eric over at Transworks this morning. He measured an input shaft and came up with the same length you have, 9/16. Looks like you are ok with the one you have. |
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mranker Samba Member

Joined: April 11, 2006 Posts: 271 Location: Pasadena, CA
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Posted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: New Transaxle Now No Gears |
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I recognize those greasy fingers! 1 year update: clutch and transmission are all working well after many 1,000's of happy miles. The shifting has significantly loosened up. Throws have gone from forceful shoves to perfect slots. _________________ '70 Bus
'02 Eurovan MV Weekender |
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Pete's vdubs  Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2013 Posts: 24 Location: Vicksburg Ms
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Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:42 pm Post subject: Re: New Transaxle Now No Gears |
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| Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth. |
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Pete's vdubs  Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2013 Posts: 24 Location: Vicksburg Ms
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Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: New Transaxle Now No Gears |
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| Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth. |
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Pete's vdubs  Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2013 Posts: 24 Location: Vicksburg Ms
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Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: New Transaxle Now No Gears |
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| Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth. |
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Pete's vdubs  Samba Member
Joined: February 17, 2013 Posts: 24 Location: Vicksburg Ms
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Posted: Sat Jul 23, 2016 3:46 pm Post subject: Re: New Transaxle Now No Gears |
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| Your coupler needs the proper tapered grub screw.The bolt may not be seating properly ,it looks like its sliding back and forth. |
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