003 Automatic transmission rebuild Part 2 -Transmission half

[Wasted youth]

EDIT IN PROGRESS...STAY TUNED
Nov. 12, 2013 - Edited out some more confusion about mis-labled components!

I would like add this thread as the second part of the 003 transmission rebuild. Part 1 is the Final Drive 'refresh' where I partially rebuilt or refreshed the that part of the automatic transmission in my 1973 bus. For this discussion, I have decided to break the whole transmission into two parts: the Final Drive and the Transmission, just so I can keep it managable.

The reason I say 'partial' is because there were several procedures that I did not feel necessary to perform on the Final Drive. The cause for all this work was a contaminated Final Drive, not any transmsission problem. It drove fine then as it does now. So, I did not replace any bearings or disassemble the Differential.

However, with this thread, I did do what I consider a complete overhaul of the automatic side of the unit, replacing all seals, O-rings, and clutches.

At the time I did this work, I did not think I was skilled or tooled up enough to completely rebuild this transmission. In fact, this was the first transmission I have rebuilt. Be that as it may, it turned out just fine, and were it not for some new engine troubles, I would using this as a daily driver.

There are a few measuring tools I do not posess, and I do not have any of the VW special tooling needed to properly do the all of the work by the book. I hand made a close approximation of Tool 182, which is simple enough and quite useful.

I ordered the TC from Drivetrain.com (P/N VW 003 VKS-2), on April 23, 2013 for $187.50 + $25.00 core and shipping was $24.00 and I ordered the 003 Master Rebuild kit (P/N 265006F, Master Kit, 003 1969-75) from Bulkpart.com on March 23, 2013 for $100.78 and shipping $16.50 so I hope that helps. The 003 kit did not include the pan gasket for the Final Drive, but the pan gasket for the tranny side was there, and all the other grease seals, O-rings soft clutch parts were in there. They all fit great!

You can see how I rebuilt/refreshed the Final Drive here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570127

Part 2 - Transmission half

With the Final Drive disassembled and safely boxed up and out of the way, I could open up the transmssion side and see what I got myself into.

Here is the Transmission half ready to get overhauled. Not a very nice work area, but I have managed with less. Here are the (1) Turbine Shaft, (2) Paper gasket, and (3) Pump Shaft. Item 4 is simply drawing your attention to the shaft relationship. When you pull out the Turbine shaft, remember which end is which. Either end looks similar, but they are not the same.

Part 2.1 - Case

The raised numbers/codes on the case have 003 in the sequence, and the other style, the 010 is the same way. The numbers are that row that is to the left of the Audi symbol in this photo. The 003 sequence is on there, upside down. You can see where it begins... 003 321 106. It's just like the 010 transmission. I did not get a better picture of this, Sorry!
There are a few external differences, too. For me, the main difference at a glance is that the 010 has a cable kickdown linkage, while the 003 is electrical with a switch under the gas pedal. The two case are differnt, too.

More landmarks to become familar with:

Let's get familiar with some of these parts: Refer to page 7-8, Sect. 3.3 - Testing Hydraulic Control Circuit of the Bentley.

(1) is Main Pressure Test Port (page 7-8, Sect. 3.3 - Testing Hydraulic Control Circuit) and (2) is Primary Throttle Pressure, (3) is Main Pressure. Release side of 2nd Gear Brake Band Servo Piston, while (4) is Main Pressure. Apply side of 2nd Gear Brake Band Servo Piston. (5) is one of the holes for one of four anchor studs mating the Final Drive to the Transmission.

Here's the Vacuum Modulator, very hard to find a good one if you need to replace it.

What the pan looked like when I opened it up.

Governor, installed. See Bentley, pg. 7-15, Item 6.2 - Dissassembling and Assembling Governor, and Fig. 6-1 same page.

Part 2.2 - Valve Body and Adaptor Plate Assembly

(1) is the Vacuum Modulator, (2) is the Primary throttle pressure valve, (3) is the cavity the 1st Gear Accumulator piston nests into, (4) is cavity for the Accumlator piston, (5) is the operating lever and pawl for the Parking Lock, and (6) is the cavity the 2nd Gear Accumulator piston nests into. (7) is the retaining bolt for the Shifting Lever.

(1) is the underside of the Valve Body, still attached to the Transfer Plate. (2) is the mating area of the Transfer Plate to the 1st Gear piston, (3) is the electrical connection to the Kickdown Solenoid, (4) is the top of the 2nd Gear piston, (5) is the return spring for the Accumlator piston, and I think I was trying to point out in (6) that you can see part of the Planetary Gearset from underneath.

Adaptor Plate and Seperator plate, as reomved. See Fig. 5-3, page 7-10 of the Bentley.

Split apart. The Seperator Plate is on top. The years of grime make a nice 'map' of the fluid passages of the Adaptor Plate, and will soon be wiped clean.

Seperator Plate, cleaned.

Seperator and Adaptor plates after cleaning with lacquer thinner.

There are four ball check valves, each ready to drop onto your floor and roll off into the netherland when you open all this up, so be ready. See pg. 7-11, fig. 5-4 and 5-5 of the Bentley. The balls are described in procedure 5.1 - Removing and Installing Valve Body assembly beginning on page 7-10.

Here is where I dropped the ball on photgraphy. I did not realize that I got ATF on the lens sliding cover of my point and shoot camera. Most of all the pictures of the Valve Body disassmebly were unusable.

The thing to remember about cleaning out the valve body is to carefully identify and store each and every part, one at a time, clearly indicating which way it came out! I cannot stress this enough. Do not get in a hurry when you do this.

Refer to Bentley, pg. 7-13, Item 5.3 - Disassembling and Assembling Valve Body. I did not make a wood holder for all the parts, but kept them all seperated by a cardboard box with taped paper walls inside, plastic bags and part of an egg carton. I cleaned each with Lacquer Thinner (as all parts were prior to reassemby), then marked many of them with a Sharpie and kept a note pad.

Don't bugged by the work!

Part 2.3 - Clutches, Planetary Gear, Bands and Pump

This is what I saw after I pulled off the Bearing Flange, seeing the First Gear Band (Part 22) and Support Fork(Part 23). Note how the Support Fork is held in place by the Adjusting Screw(Part 4). It's easy to disturb this relationship when reassembling.

A little more detail:

Here is the Planetary Gearset. Mine did not need to be disassembled.

The Driving Shell (below) comes out easy, but the Small Sun Gear (already removed in this view) nests exactly in the Driving shell teeth to match up with the Planetary Gearset. Don't forget how the thrust washer lays in.

Here is a view of the Forward Clutch. You can make out the actual clutch plates as the dark brown serrated edge parts. Pay attention to how they are stacked.

The Forward Clutch:

The Direct and Reverse Clutch:

Safely stored in a closed container, the Direct and Reverse Clutch waits its turn.

Now, I can access the ATF Pump to replace the shaft pump seal rings, which I found out are brittle and must be handled with great care when installing onto the shaft.

Here is the ATF pump assembly being removed.

With the ATF Pump now safely stored along with the other parts, I could begin to rebuild all teh seperate components. I was pretty overwhelmed by this project until I changed my mental apporach early on: Treat the transmission as a whole into seperate groups, and approach aech with care and patience, then move onto the next group. thinking like that helped me stay motivated in the face of trying to attend to the rest of life's responsibilites.

Here's the seal kit:

Part 2.4 - Rebuilding clutch components

Refreshing the Direct and Reverse Clutch:

Using a large bench vise, I held the clutch in place cushioned by blocks of wood on either side. This allowed me to work on getting the springs evenly compressed so I could remove the small circlip.

As seen in the thread made by Mutlit69s on rebuilding the 003 Trans, I also used the C-clamp method to help open up the clutch without having the springs scatter out. The screwdriver points to the circlip that needs to be removed after the springs are evenly (!) compressed.

Using snap ring pliers, I removed the circlip.

Here are the springs ready to fall out all over the place. Be ready for this.

Now back on the bench, I removed the old seals.

After reinstalling the new clutch plates, and finished reassembling the clutch drum, I checked the axial play of the unit.

PIC

Next: Refreshing the Forward Clutch:

[skills@eurocarsplus]

I see you struck gold
_________________

[Red Fau Veh]

I'm thinking of rebuilding a 010 myself, good thread on the early unit.
_________________
1971 Deluxe Sunroof Bay 1905 stroker, dual idf40's, 74mm Scat forged crank, engle 110 cam. CB 044 heads, AutoCraft rockers, chromoly push rods
1973 Orange transporter stock type 4 with dual 40 Dellortos and Empi single quiet pack
1969 Adventurewagen blue whale Gene Berg 1776 built by Dave Kawell dual 36 DRLA's, Vintage Speed exhaust, Bosch 019 screamer
1961 Swivel Seat camper, L345 grey

[raygreenwood]

Very nice! Ray

[peterd444]

Sorry to bump an old thread but I have to ask, how did you get the torque converter filled with ATF? To keep a long story short I rebuilt my type 4 engine for my 1973 bus however I didn't rebuild the 003 auto transmission since it was working mint before.

Upon completion, I filled the transmission with dextron/merc ATF fluid from the dip stick tube. Engine started up perfectly a few steps later I go to move the bus and no gears work at all. I immediately check the fluid level and it was perfect, strange... so I added some more fluid perhaps it needed some extra for the torque converter - made no difference. I checked the linkage and it works (didn't adjust it since it was fine before).

Any ideas as to what is wrong? Could it be the torque converter not having any fluid in it? The troubleshooting guide indicates low fluid level or broken fluid pump however I can't imagine the pump broke when i bolted the transmission to the engine....?!?

[old DKP driver]

It's a little late to ask about filling the torque converter.

Worst scenario would be the pump shaft was either left out
or, as you noted the shift linkage is not correct and is not moving the manual
valve in the valve body.

Lets hope it's something simple As i know what a pain it is to r&r it.

Filling the torque converter( DRY) requires it to be spun like a merry go round
so the stator fling the fluid outwards. So it gets filled a little at a time before
installing.
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V.W.owner since 1967

[peterd444]

[old DKP driver]

Then yes, move on to the linkage adjustment with both axles attached and put
in park. then loosen the lock nut for the cable at the trans and push the lever
to the rear of the trans towards the engine.

Spin one tire until you hear the parking pawl engage (click) and tighten the lock nut.

There should have been enough fluid in the system after running it for the
cam break-in.

*****parking brake off and bus on jack stands for this procedure****
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[Wasted youth]

Apologies unnecessary for bumping old threads... its not like anything we're working on here is current, cutting edge technology.

Spinning the torque converter to fill it with fluid... is done by hand on a workbench. No need to go ape shit, just spin it by hand on a lazy susan or carefully enough to keep it spinning by hand as you fill it with ATF. Or you can use the Bentley Lab Coat Guy method.


Shifting... Put it in Park. Look under the bus where the shifter connects to the transmission. Note the position. Now go move it into D or R. Did the position change? Yes? Good. No? Check your linkage.

If it did change, refer to the Bentley on fine adjustment. BTW, oldDKPdriver helped me through this!

[peterd444]

Thank you for all the information you two. I think i know where I went wrong, I installed the torque converter to the TC plate FIRST then I wiggled the transmission onto the engine and hoped the shafts lined up into the torque converter like how we would do on a manual transmission. This was my first automatic that I have ever separated from and installed to an engine and obviously I would butcher it.

Given the information above, have I totally destroyed the torque converter, shafts and pump? FYI - when I wiggled the transmission into place it went together smoothly so I assumed all was OK. Right now I'm picturing the pump shaft splines not pressed into the TC housing OR the splines are completely shredded from not lining up properly.

Proceeding forward, I believe I should drop the transmission today and inspect the shafts and if all seems OK, install the TC to the transmission side first and try again... any further ideas?

[old DKP driver]

Peter,
Unbolt the converter from the flex plate 1st and see if the converter will move
freely.

Chris
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[Wasted youth]

I am not a transmission mechanic, but I doubt you detroyed the splined shafts. I cannot think of how they could bind or lock up long enough to suffer from your imposed start-up and break in period. I dont think your pencil sharpener worries have any real concern yet. If it did that much damage, I would think you would quicikly hear it and be reasonable enough of a person to shut the engine off.

If anything, they diid not engage somehow and are not driving the fluid pump. Remember that the pump driveshft can be pulled out by hand, and also must be hand seated prior to

If you install the TC into the bellhousing, then mount the engine, how will you rotate the TC around to tighten the bolts through the hole in the engine case?

How did the shifting observance go?

[peterd444]

[old DKP driver]

Peter, I m afraid you are going to remove the engine and transmission again.

As both Steven and i mentioned there is a good chance the pump shaft never ended up in the pump or converter. but, it is a good sign the converter does
turn.

both shafts Turbine & Pump need to be fully installed in the converter and
usually there will be 2 clunks as the converter drops over both shafts and
becomes fully seated in the bell housing.

Also when installing the trans it is very important to make sure the bell housing
end is at an incline so the converter will not come out while bolting the trans
to the engine. it's almost a 2 person job and 2 floor jacks.

Lets just hope all turns out okay with this and no parts hunting is needed.

Chris
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[orwell84]

Wowee. You are one brave mofo. My '73 autotrans still works fine. Looked at pictures in the Bentley and vowed never to touch the thing. It's like this thing I saw on Sesame Street when I was a kid of a steel ball rolling down a chute making other things move and 1, 2, 3, 4 flags going up. Scared the shit out of me. Will start walking before I touch that goddamn thing,

[orwell84]

Good for you for getting into it. It's pretty amazing really....a 3rd gear that will go from 30 mph to burying the needle. They will run like shit forever, but never break...Mine surged between gear changes when I got it in 1990. Changed the ATF and it has been perfect ever since. Grace of God...not my skills...

[peterd444]

[orwell84]

Have never changed the hypoid oil in the final drive. It dates from the Nixon administration. Maybe I should do something about that....

[old DKP driver]

WAIT ............ did you ALSO look at the other end of the pump shaft
to check for damage and that is seats in the pump?

Small shaft is pump- Large shaft is turbine
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V.W.owner since 1967

[Wasted youth]