Pop Out Window Restoration

[EverettB]

From earlier in this thread

_________________
How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[nlorntson]

This is the outside surface

Outside surface

[Longboardluv]

[EverettB]

I added that photo above to the first post in this thread.

I agree "flat side out" is confusing.
I think of it as the little flat side that covers the frame edge goes to the outside but without that specific text or a photo or an original window to examine, it's easily confusing.
_________________
How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[Longboardluv]

yes it is confusing! I emailed WW and this was the reply.

"The extra lip on the seal faces outward as shown on the link below.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=221847131A


So that's helps to explain it better. Thanks for all the help team aircooled!

[nlorntson]

I added text to my pictures above.

I thought of it as the metal frame seals against the rubber in the body window opening making an "inner" seal, and the rubber on the perimeter of the pop out seals against the body making the "outer" seal.

[nyr208]

Was able to use ratchet straps and a towel to pull the windows closer together. Worked very well.
_________________
66 13 window bus (sold)
57 beetle

[rennie]

[rennie]

Did my pop out. I was paranoid of this job in fear of breaking OG glass but this thread was *very helpful regarding little tricks and methods.

I might add:

Instead of completely/100% drilling out two of the old frame screws (lowers), I drilled a small hole in the screw and then used a screw extractor. This guaranteed not over-drilling the hole size for the 4mm re-tap, as well as keeping the hole on-center best as possible. Also, I didn't have to drill a larger hole for the 4mm tap and was able to tap it directly as it was as I thought perhaps rust may have weakened the hole walls enough to accept the 4mm tap... it worked perfectly. Local hdw store had the 4mm screws but had to get the 3.5mm from Wolfsburg West for the top screws.

Thanks to the thread mentioning some window logos do correctly appear reversed, I marked the glass orientation.

I didn’t paint the frame (fully OG paint/patina bus) but thought to comment on the above powder coating "too tight" issue. From the factory, the frames appear to have been painted *after assembly; there is no OG paint on the slider joint-touching surfaces. May be best to tape these areas (or fully scrape them) if re-painting. No paint = easier assembly.

I used baby powder as the ‘lube’. Frame slid together with 1/8” gap shy of full closure. I only used very tight bungy cords (wrapped around the long frame edges) to hold the frame pieces in place (didn’t have ratchet straps or clamps) while manually compressing the pieces closer together to rid the 1/8” gap. It definitely took a some might to close that gap but easily enough accomplished with minimal glass breaking risk.

The seals were from Wolfsburg West (1.5 yrs ago) and as mentioned in thread, the outer frame seal’s track width is too narrow and is a bit sloppy/moveable once insterted , however, the corners didn't pop out. Overall, the seals all fit very well.

[EverettB]

A while ago someone mentioned about some lubricant they used that came in a stick that worked great for rubber seals.

I couldn't find the post but is it this stuff or something else?

AGS Door-Ease Stick Lubricant
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?produ...8da6830703
_________________
How to Post Photos
Everett Barnes - [email protected] | My wanted ads
"Water is the only drink for a wise man" | "Communication prevents complaints"
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[BarryL]

[flemcadiddlehopper]

Seems to be a waxy, gummy material, yet solid like a bar of soap. It's been around forever so it's doubtful that there is any silicone in it.

but if this helps... http://agscompany.com/resources/msds-sheets/ and you can make any sense of it.



Gordo.
_________________
Everybody Dies....Some Never Live.

Retrograde Garage. Vintage Aircooled, and others.

[mandraks]

silicone has been around forever, too, for over 100 years...
_________________
regards

Uli

----------------------------------------
'53 3-Fold Oval, L35 Metallic Blue, looking for a narrow hatch panel

[BarryL]

[flemcadiddlehopper]

[FiveORacing]

Great thread. Getting reading to paint mine today. They are all prepped and primed. Going to use single stage auto paint, Question: Do you guys spray them screwed together or each half apart. Thanks!

[rennie]

My vote would be spray them apart so that the seam edges get a little paint... but see my comments above about keeping paint off the tab insert areas.
If you paint them assembled then where the frame pieces meet/touch would be bare metal and could be prone to rust. Just my thoughts.

Having said all that, my frames are OG paint and they seem to have been painted assembled! My bus has been in a dry environment so it was lucky not to get much rust...

[avocado_tom]

Does anyone know the screw specs for attaching the pop out windows to the hinge?

Mine were "not returned" when my bus came back from the body shop...

[rennie]

I believe they are M3.5 x .6 for the original size. If you have to re-tap them then M4 is what works.
I rang WW since I couldn't locally find the 3.5 for the hinge screws (which i didn't have to re-tap). They tossed them in an envelope for $2 and I had them in two days.
On their site they sell both the 3.5 and the 4... but what you'll use depends if you re-tap.