Spring Plate Angle/Torsion Bar Adjustment (Pics Added)

[airschooled]

[Smurf]

[cdennisg]

[lintbrush]

[kevin77westy]

Going thru this process now on my 77 Westy and this thread has been extremely helpful.. My M14 bolts that hold the bearing hub to the spring plate/trailing arm did not fair well when removed. I just measured mine and contrary to an earlier post my short ones are 35mm in length, not 28mm. They just barely protruded from the assembly when installed so a shorter bolt will not work. Just wanted to post it up in case it helps some other poor sole with buggered threads. These are M14 x 1.5 (fine thread) grade 10.9.
Short bolt is 35mm and long one is 95mm. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1589782.jpg
I found replacements (35 and 100mm, 10.9 grade) and matching tap at Belmetric.

[Amskeptic]

[Wildthings]

[Amskeptic]

[vwwestyman]

Will old bushings cause the rear suspension to sound creaky/squeaky when the Bus is loaded?

I had forgotten about having not heard it since the summer, but in the '73 when it is full of people the rear suspension gets noisy. The shocks are only a year or two old, so I doubt that is the issue.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[wcfvw69]

[SGKent]

originals still come up packed in that spray stuff that protects them. They may be harder to work with but think of them more like poly when they get harder. Use lots of real talc when installing them.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

[SGKent]

[kevin77westy]

Finished this job a couple weeks ago (had some unexpected delays) and thought I would add some of my experiences. I used bushings from BugHaus - they had FAG bearings so I figured I'd give their bushings a shot while I was ordering. Here's the side to side comparison of the 2 drivers side old ones and vs 2 new ones. They seemed like good quality to me.

I dove into this job because of an annoying squeak from my rear end. My bushings were in pretty good shape compared to some but I found the source when I pulled the driver's side bushing cover:

As far as removing the spring plates, I had no luck just prying the spring plates out. I saw old posts and youtube videos that made it look easy and even saw one post that said to "gently pry" them out. Mine were in there good. I ended up using my biggest cold chisel and a 12" pry bar as a wedges from different angles and banged them behind the spring plate to get it started. Once it moved a little then the gently prying came into play. I did scratch the paint a little doing this so I cleaned up the area and hit it with clear coat to keep the rust at bay.

On installing the torsion cover plates - I went with the no outer bushing technique and used the cover plate to push in the spring plate and inner bushing - worked great - just gotta keep it all in the same plane. Once the spring plate was near home I pulled the cover and installed the outer bushing. I tightened the cover bolts in a cross pattern a little at a time to keep things straight.

And a pic of the completed rear end. Can't wait to drive! Waiting on a replacement drum - one of mine chipped a rim in delivery. ts always something.

[kevin77westy]

[BusPriest]

I sure had a frustrating morning and afternoon. I have read this is a 2-3 hour job. Well i spent 7 hours on one side... that included a few trips to the store.

So I am lifting the rear to go along with my bigger tires and fix the saggin rear.

I pulled it all apart and the bushing looked in decent shape so I didnt plan on changing them. My original angle was 23* after compensating for the angle in the driveway. I regeared to have an angle of 30*

Heres the issue i have. I cant get the arm back far enough to stay on the stop. I did get it on once, but the hub would not bolt on, as the arm wasnt pushed in far enough onto the inside of the bus.

The method i have been using to put it on is pushing the index bar in all the way so that the bar is fully on on the inner splines, then put on the plate and put on 3 screws. Then jack it up to be above the stop bump. Then tighen the 4 bolts on the plate in and it will push it on, but not push it on enough. When the jack is let down, it slides off the bump.

I have tried messing around with the jack, sliding it all around. Hitting the arm with a 4lb mini sledge, hitting a block of wood on the splines. Lots of Johnson & Johnson baby talc.

Any suggestions?? This is suppose to be an easy job

_________________
1977 Champagne Transporter Custom Camper.
SOHC EJ25, tubbed, wagenswest
Work in progress build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=619684
Not a Priest.

[kevin77westy]

Maybe your old inner bushing is deformed and will not let it get where it needs to be?

[lil-jinx]

Try bolting on the hub and torque arm,the arm should hold the spring plate inward and prevent it from slipping off the stop.
You may need to use longer,smaller bolts with nuts and washers to get the torque arm to line up on the hub,use 2 of them where the vw nuts and bolts go,[a good clamp may also work]when it's lined up install and tighten the 2 short bolts that screw into the hub.
GoodLuck,have fun;Nelson.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy
1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.

[BusPriest]

[lil-jinx]

Had to run to the garage and have a look,use a c-clamp to clamp the spring arm in so it can't slip off.
_________________
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620186
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=668799
1974 Bay Westfalia. she likes to be called Ethel.
1968 Dune Buggy
1974 parts bus
A smart man learns from his mistakes,a very smart man learns from other's mistakes.