Syncro fuel tank removal, reseal and SS strap install

[rmcd]

Dylan did you use the locktite sealant on the sender rubber gaskets? Do u think this has helped keep ur installs leak free?

Thanks to everyone who chimed in. All good info.
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[MsTaboo]

[insyncro]

The venting of the tank can be greatly improved from stock and pictured in Bentley.
I use hardline for venting now to save a little space.
Depending upon what conversion the van has I try to plump it back into the intake and not vent to the atmosphere, but most don't care to spend the time.

[MsTaboo]

[Bassyaks]

Dylan, if you vented to the intake aren't you worried about a vacuum in the tank?, It would be near impossible to collapse it, but it may cause running problems,

[insyncro]

[peaceful warrior]

A bit late to this thread but I was curious as I have not read the Bentley manual yet. Does the engine need to be dropped to remove the tank?
I have the transmission out now as I am doing a clutch job, new CV joints, cooling system and shift linkage bushings.
Someone mentioned that the engine has to be removed but it seems the tank can be removed with the engine in place. Am I incorrect?
Thanks for this write up!
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"Two things are infinite: The universe and human stupidity; and I'm not sure about the universe." Albert Einstein
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66 13W Deluxe, 68 Westfalia, 87 Syncro.
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Brian

[dcasali]

My '86 WBX Syncro is leaking fuel when filled within a gallon of maximum. Fuel drips quite briskly on passenger side from somewhere above the shifter lever—not unfortunately from filler pipe or tube. Tank is going to have to come out.

Snow is 3 ft deep here (Idaho). I might be able to get the rig into my heated garage if I drop the tire pressure. If I can, my garage door opener sets a limit as to how high I can raise the vehicle. [I'm acutely aware of flammability issues inherent in this job.]

Bentley says this job can be done if I drop just the tranny.
1) is that correct, but the hard way? I.e. Should I plan to drop the engine too?
2) if I drop one or both, how high do I have to raise the vehicle to slide them out of the way?

After reviewing this and related threads can't say I'm really looking forward to this job, but I have more time than $$. Will do fuel lines, straps, sender and clutch at same time; clutch has at least 80K miles on it.

When done will drive south until I can see dirt once again

[dkoesyncro]

Your going to cuss less and have the liberty to finesse/fight the tank if the trans and engine are out of the way.

Buy quality hardware and components. I used hylomar for an added sealant. Amazon is cheap for ear clamps. Use something like gates barricade green shield for fuel lines. Replace the submersible line in the tank.

Take care, it's a frustrating experience!

[dcasali]

Thanks. All good suggestions. Will keep strong drink at hand.

Now, if I can squeeze the van into the garage, how high must I raise the rear to scoot the engine/tranny out? I won't have much more than a foot of space above the van due to interference with my door opener rail. In a pinch I guess I could pull the opener, but rather not.

[CinnabarVan]

Hey guys,
I have done this job of removing the fuel tank for servicing, and all I can say is that it is much easier with the engine out to get in there and work.

If you try this with the engine in place, you will need to support the engine and constantly butt up into it trying to pry the tank loose.

You have to teater the heck out of the tank to get it to come down and come out. You need all the space available to get in there.

Plus once it is out, you may want to repaint the firewall like Hefty Smurf did.
You will need to prep this area and sand the heck out of it, so with the engine out, again you will have more room to do this.

Joel

[Wangta]

I HATE PHOTOBUCKET!

[Zeitgeist 13]

I've heard this works when you upload Chrome

https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-embed-fix/naolkcpnnlofnnghnmfegnfnflicjjgj
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?