| Author |
Message |
westyventures
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2004
Posts: 2306
Location: Oregon Outback
|
 Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 6:52 am Post subject: |
 |
|
Bosruten: Propex UK had this to say when I sent the photo of your install:
"It will start to look a little sorry for itself after a while where the surface of the plastic goes shiny, I have a similar set up on our exhibition stand but a few inches longer ducting and after a week at a show constantly running it will go shiny". So, just be aware that it could be an issue but quite possibly not, since yours will likely not be running non-stop.
Ok. Thermostat adjustment folks:
"Changing R7 from a 12k resistor to a 15k resistor will lower the range slightly"
Let me know how it works out! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
bosruten
Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2011
Posts: 551
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:18 am Post subject: |
|
|
| westyventures wrote: |
Bosruten: Propex UK had this to say when I sent the photo of your install:
"It will start to look a little sorry for itself after a while where the surface of the plastic goes shiny, I have a similar set up on our exhibition stand but a few inches longer ducting and after a week at a show constantly running it will go shiny". So, just be aware that it could be an issue but quite possibly not, since yours will likely not be running non-stop. |
Thanks for the concern. Is there a difference in distance from the unit to the vent between the various models or is it typical of all? Am I the only one not complying?  . Although I'm not in Alaska, it may be possible to run the Propex non stop around here! 
_________________
'87 Syncro Weekender |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
westyventures
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2004
Posts: 2306
Location: Oregon Outback
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 7:35 am Post subject: |
|
|
| bosruten wrote: |
Thanks for the concern. Is there a difference in distance from the unit to the vent between the various models or is it typical of all? Am I the only one not complying? . Although I'm not in Alaska, it may be possible to run the Propex non stop around here! |
Only the 2800 will have the issue - it just produces a higher output temperature than the 2000 and 2211. I installed one (at the customer's request) nestled deeply into the cabinet above the 110 outlet - which meant no ducting length, grille right against the heater. Within 10 minutes it melted. I asked Propex if the material has changed, no answer to that. In a worst-case scenario, replacement might be necessary with a metal grille. Next time you run it for a longer period, prod the fins of the vent to see if they are easily flexed - if so, that would mean it's borderline on melting. If not, no worries! |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
j_dirge
Samba Member
Joined: August 08, 2007
Posts: 4641
Location: Twain Harte, CA
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 8:22 am Post subject: |
|
|
| westyventures wrote: |
Only the 2800 will have the issue - it just produces a higher output temperature than the 2000 and 2211. I installed one (at the customer's request) nestled deeply into the cabinet above the 110 outlet - which meant no ducting length, grille right against the heater. Within 10 minutes it melted. I asked Propex if the material has changed, no answer to that. In a worst-case scenario, replacement might be necessary with a metal grille. Next time you run it for a longer period, prod the fins of the vent to see if they are easily flexed - if so, that would mean it's borderline on melting. If not, no worries! |
Yikes.
I'll have to test mine more thoroughly. I have not had the opportunity/need to run it more than 10-15 minutes at a time, yet.
Maybe 20 mins.. but mostly to take the chill off, and the 2800 takes the chill off in 10-15 minutes..
Has anyone needed the 2800 to run longer than 10-15 mins at a stretch?
I prefer to let temps drop at night.. to 45 is OK.. then fire it up in the AM to make the place comfy for the kids.
My duct run is very short.. Maybe 6-8" on centerline. But its a very tight 90deg bend, (creased slightly on inside of bend to achieve the angle necessary.
Could be that bend puts much of the initial heat impact on the duct material.. and the air is not so hot as it hits the plastic grille?
But there's been no indication that the grill gets more than warm to touch.
Resister change = "slight" change in temp range.. Any idea how slight?
I'd not be able to test it until next winter. Too warm around here.
_________________
-89 GL Westy, SVX.. finally.
-57 pan f/g buggy with a 67 pancake Type 3 "S"
"Jimi Hendrix owned one. Richard Nixon did not"
-Grand Tour, Season 1, episodes 4 and 5
| danfromsyr wrote: |
those are straight line runs with light weight race cars for only 1/4mile at a time..
not pushing a loaded brick up a mountain pass with a family of 4+ inside expecting to have an event free vacation..
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jackbombay
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2007
Posts: 2723
Location: Eastern Idaho
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
My 2800 has an etremely short piece of hose connecting the vent to the heater, "coupler" would be more accurate, I actually cut the reducer shorter and I also cut the vent shorter so the vent is 3/4" closer to the heater than if I hadn't cut them. I have run mine for 40 minutes, non stop and the grill is fine so far, but that was a couple days ago when it was 10* F outside, and inside the van when I started the heater up. I'll report back if I have any problems.
Is it possible to got to a 17k resistor for a larger drop? Or is there just the bit of wiggle room there?
_________________
Gas struts to pop your top easily!
Pop Top strut kits now available for late Bay window Westies
Samba ad here.
DIY artificial rain gutters (ARGs) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jackbombay
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2007
Posts: 2723
Location: Eastern Idaho
|
| Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 1:33 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| j_dirge wrote: |
Resister change = "slight" change in temp range.. Any idea how slight?
I'd not be able to test it until next winter. Too warm around here. |
I can test year round where I live, I'll report back soon.
Off to find the Moab Radio shack now
I'll be in Colorado in a couple days and can test there.
_________________
Gas struts to pop your top easily!
Pop Top strut kits now available for late Bay window Westies
Samba ad here.
DIY artificial rain gutters (ARGs) |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
jackbombay
Samba Member
Joined: October 19, 2007
Posts: 2723
Location: Eastern Idaho
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Jamo7
Samba Member
Joined: September 25, 2014
Posts: 124
Location: Seattle
|
| Posted: Thu Feb 16, 2017 11:47 pm Post subject: Do this if you like doing things the hard way. |
|
|
I blame what follows on my twisted sense of aesthetics...
I wanted my Propex vent to be symmetrical about the midline of the rear bench to the rear heater vent- same height from the floor, same distance from the center bolt in the kick board. So I made those measurements (twice even!) and cut out the hole for the Propex vent. This was after the heater was good and mounted, so when I went to connect the specified 12-18" of heater hose this was the surprise I got:
I quickly understood why so many of the other installation photos showed the Propex vent elevated with respect to the rear heater. 
Since I'm stubborn and like to generally do things the hard way, I started thinking of possible solutions without needing to cut a new hole in the kick board. After considering a few really messy and difficult solutions I settled on making a box like this:
Off to Home Depot I went for a sheet of heater flashing. (Never mind that the t-stat hose to the dist tower started dripping onto my hot exhaust when I parked at Home Depot at 9:30 on a Wed night. Its a journey not a destination right  ) I also had red, hi-temp RTV left over from the exhaust duct install step. If someone would like the cut sheet I used, please PM me and I can send you the file. I taped the print out to the flashing and went at it with a nice pair of tin snips.
The hole for heater is a very snug fit, and the hole for the vent has tabs so that a hose clamp can secure the duct to the vent. As shown below, it fits nicely in the space with the recommended length the air is supposed to travel and cool, and the inch gap to surrounding cabinetry.
While the heater as a whole puts a dent in the under-the-rear-seat storage space, Having the heater has made for a happy family already this winter. The last thing worth mentioning with respect to doing things the hard way is that I finished installing and started using the heater back around Christmas, while I just completed installing the duct last week (a month and a half later!)
So there you go. More tales from the asylum...
James
_________________
'84 Westy 2.1 wbx |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
westyventures
Samba Member
Joined: December 29, 2004
Posts: 2306
Location: Oregon Outback
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
LemonCove
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2010
Posts: 324
Location: Henderson, NV
|
| Posted: Fri Feb 17, 2017 3:43 pm Post subject: Re: Do this if you like doing things the hard way. |
|
|
| Jamo7 wrote: |
| I blame what follows on my twisted sense of aesthetics... |
I can relate:
I elected to move my propex from it's original location when I did my auxilliary battery installation. That meant moving the original vent holes, and (IMHO) making the panel more aesthetically pleasing.
I managed to separate the battery area, ECU/ACR, and propex into small compartments under the seat, and still have a storage area above the propex.
https://goo.gl/photos/7VhX13sR672n7Hmu5
_________________
'88 Bostig Westy |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
inorganic
Samba Member
Joined: September 26, 2016
Posts: 60
Location: Portland, OR
|
| Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2020 9:26 pm Post subject: Re: Propex installations - photos please |
|
|
Hi folks - just picked up an HS2800 to replace an HS2000. Putting it under the rear bench with the rear heater still installed. It’s a tight fit, curious what creative ideas others out there have done. Any photos to share?
THANKS!
_________________
'86 SYNCRO Weekender |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
