Cylinder head, case, carb question on 2110 stroker

[Danwvw]

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I'd put money on the fact that the engine wasn't balanced, which is why the case was beaten like a red headed step-child.
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[jpaull]

I admire your drive to get it done and tearing into it. Very cool.

Small engine or big engine, how fast do you wanna go?

If you just like a mild fun driver and might need heater boxes, then the small engine...

If you see yourself getting bored easy and wanting more power, then take the leap now while its apart and just spend the money once and go 82 stroke and everything else to match.
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[email protected] MPH 1/4 Mile & 8.1 @ 83.7MPH in 1/8 Mile with Mild Type 1 VW Mag Case 2234cc commuter engine in stock weight bug w/only .491 total lift(CB2292 Cam), 42x37 heads, 48idf's, Street tires, Belt on, Mufflers, Pump gas, video of the run here: https://youtu.be/M3SPqMOKAOg

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Rhino case, Klinkenberg 4.12, Superdiff, 002 mainshaft with 091 first idler. Weddle 1.48 Third & 1.14 Fourth.

[Danwvw]

The case does appear to have considerable fretting going on, Could that have happened in just 500 miles? Perhaps too high of RPM? I wonder if the bearings fit the case right? Time to get out the flashlight!

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[Pruneman99]

Disregard my comment about the oil hole being blocked. Last set of Silverlines I used last year only had a hole in one bearing half and I just assumed they were just made that way now. I opened a new box last night and both halves were drilled. I guess that set I used last year were just made differently or was a mistake. Sorry if I caused some confusion there.

It looks like you are putting together a plan to build it right so I'm sure you will be happy with the final product. Be honest about your budget and then decide what size engine to build. The engine combo sticky is a nice read to see what other ppl have done, and what kind of power they make.

If your in a rush, a long block from a reputable builder is a good way to go. Plenty of them on this forum that would be happy to help you out. I kinda enjoy selecting parts and building myself because this is a hobby for me and I don't DD my VW. If it takes me a year to build an engine, so be it. I just enjoy the process.

[mazza89]

I highly doubt there were only 500 miles on this engine. The bearings seem to fit well into the journals. No play in them. All the dowel pins were in and no spun bearings on anything.

Is the fretting the wear on the journals?

Oh yea... forgot to mention... the rods have a good bit of play on the crank. Each and every one of them. I didn't try to measure them but I would would say somewhere aroud 1/16 of lateral movement.

I am beginning to worry if the case is usable or not.

I think I will go with an engine combo and replace the rods and pistons as well. Since I am in here and all torn apart I would rather do it right the first time.

Heads, dual carbs are a purchase no matter what as is the crank. Rods and pistons aren't much more in the grand scheme of things.

The heater boxes are 1.5" I would like to keep them. I think that leaves me topping out at the 82 mm stroke. 84 seems to be pushing everything into a further territory.

I am obviously open to suggestions on everything. I really appreciate all the responses and help!

[DeathBySnuSnu]

If you want to keep yout 1-1/2 heater boxes.

[Danwvw]

[Lingwendil]

Get the case set up for full flow oil filtration while the shop has it, it's usually very affordable, unless you want all the galleys drilled and plugged while they do it, but still not expensive. Or, do it yourself

I think that a stroker crank would be a great idea, I'm slowly planning a 2180 myself
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[mazza89]

Got the case ready to go to the machine shop and see what they can do with it. Not sure if they work on VW cases but I don't think that should matter.

Starting to price out parts and see what I want to do. I am thinking a 2276 since from what I am seeing the 82 stroke is a little easier on the life of the engine.

Thoughts on the 82 vs 84?

Looking at the Scat model number 2275 with the forged pistons. I believe since it is the volksracer crank that is forged as well? I plan to call them tomorrow to ask. Seems like a heck of a price at $1182 if so.

Taking the cam to the machine shop to get their recommendation on it as well. I was looking CB makes some CNC ported 044 heads, I haven't learned enough which way to go whether the Los panchitos or one of the cnc ported etc.

I plan to get dual weber carbs, not sure on the 44 vs 48 at this time. Currently has 1.5" heaterboxes on them that I would like to keep but that also limits me in exhaust choices. I may be persuaded to swap it to something different though. Either way the stinger has got to go.

Then I have to figure out the ignition. Already decided on an electric fuel pump since the brazil one was leaking directly into the engine. One of the many sources of fuel.

Will know more on what the shop says tomorrow.

[rodjr]

[mazza89]

[esde]

Where are you located? Maybe someone can suggest a local shop that has the specialized tools to machine the case.
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modok wrote:
Bent cranks are silent but gather no moss. I mean, ah, something like that.

[mazza89]

Pittsburgh Pa. There are some vw shops around here I was going to call if my machine shop doesn't handle them. Suggestions are always welcome.

[rodjr]

Clearly someone without "vw" skills did the motor already (or they had skills and did not use them). If you want a nice motor in the future, get the case to someone who knows aircooled vw's, and who takes pride in there work, even if you have to ship it.
Be patient and just do it once. Hopefully someone will recommend a good shop that is local for you.

[Danwvw]

I think the main reason this engine didn't make it is a combination of things like aluminum and iron scrapings in oil that may have had some gas in it from that center mount carb acting up, the metals that did not get filtered out because there was no oil filter, The wrong oil pump. (Years ago I lost one due to the wrong oil pump fit too) As John said above it looks like it had poor balance. It's important to use a shop that can pin the clutch to the flywheel and do a good dynamic balance. The Kennedy Stage I clutch will center well enough though and it won't need pinning. The clutch should be purchased and included in the dynamic balancing process.
Personally I like to assemble an engine from part new and part used parts so kits are usually more expensive and I can run the cam and lifters I want. The old cam and lifters could be saved and re-used here. Depends. If your wanting a high rev engine your going to want lighter lifters. I guess though if you go to 82 or 84 on the stroke the cam won't fit anyway. FK8 Clearanced cam?
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[vwracerdave]

If you insist on keeping the 1 1/2" heater boxes the largest I would build is 78X90.5=2007cc or maybe a 82x90.5=2110
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[mazza89]

I believe the kennedy pressure plate is what I will end up with. Plan to have everything all balanced.

I would like the engine to be able to rev but have a usable street power band. I have been looking at the Steve Tims heads. Stage 2 looks to be a good choice.

The case is already bored for 94mm pistons. Not sure if they make cylinders to downsize? I can lose the heater boxes if necessary but realistically how safe is a big bore and stroke motor to rev? According to the chart if I go 2276 the exhaust will be good to 5450. I could move up to the 5/8 or even 3/4 but will the heads be able to support that?

Same with the cam. If I go with the scat kit which cam will give me streetable power? C45?

So far what I am thinking
Dual 44 weber idf
1.25 rocker arms that I have if possible
c45? cam
82 x 94 forged
most likely the forged rod upgrade
Steve Tims stage 2 heads? Seem to have a lot of positive feedback
Full flow oil filter
SS pushrod tubes
kennedy pressure plate and need to decide on a clutch disk
lightened flywheel that I have

Heaterbox is up for debate on removal. I need an exhaust either way. I would like to keep heat but I can do without as well.

The scat kit seems like a good value for the money, but I am willing to piece together if there are better options. Scat forged crank, scat H beam rods are both highly recommended. Scat cams are alright from what I see.

Definitely looking for options and trying to learn what is going to work best.

Case bored and checked over by machine shop (couple in ohio from the directory on here)

$xxxx set aside for when the transmission grenades from the power.

[Danwvw]

I am no expert here when it comes to heads but the Tim's Stage II have huge port volume and valve size which is going to wipe out your bottom end torque, Torque below 2500 rpm. With the 1/1/2" pipes the top end will be wiped out too. So it would be a difficult car to drive I think. An all or nothing experience, especially with Weber 44's! Consider those used Dellorto drla 40's, they have 5 progression holes and would be a better match for a daily driver.
Probably better off with the Panchito's. I don't have any idea which chamber size to get though probably the smaller if you go with 92mm bore which come in these that would fit. ACN 92mm AA-Performance ThickWalls, To run cheap Hypereutectic pistons though your going to need to have a rev-limiter like the Pertronix Ignitor III set to about 6000-6500 RPM.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[mazza89]

I would like to stick with the forged pistons so that it can rev safely. But then again I am losing my mind going through all the options.

Need to make sure that I have a cam with a usable powerband that will rev to match. I was looking at the ACN L5 heads and L6. L6 says that they need 48 webers. Which I would like to sat away from due to the $300 cost. 44's seem to be the size that matches with that motor but I am not sure.

Then the Cb performance or the Redline, which one is the best choice? I haven't even checked on the others yet but I don't have to use the webers.

I need to decide on the final stroke then decide where the money is best spent. From the research I have been doing it seems that I don't need the h beam rods. No real benefit.

Exhaust I like the A-1 sidewinder that goes through the stock peashooter exit. Once again still early for that.

There is so much information out there and so much similar yet different.

The panchito heads are out of stock currently, one of the reasons why I am looking around at other options.